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SASing a rocky and other mods
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 1:42 pm
by 2roky
giday i've got a 1990 rocky (f300) that i'm going to SAS in a couple of years and was wondering whose done it and how much it cost, what types of diffs you used etc. i'm also going to do and engine conversion to something bigger once i've got it SAS'd was wondering what types of engines would be best to use. i'd also change the gear box to something stronger to be able to handle the extra abuse it would get. any help would be sweet.
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:10 pm
by RockyF75
Easy-er would be Hilux everything. Engine, Gbox, Diffs. Go diesel as it would really confuse people seing a deisel fez running around
Better would be going GQ everything and having coils + arguably the strongest driveline available to the average jo. Then if there's room in the engine bay you've got a fair few options on engine - 5L Holden
Or you could just go sierra Driveline
with a swift GTI engine
... but I think zooks track would be narrower than fez
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:19 pm
by 2roky
i would love to go safari diffs but i think they would be to wide to get cert'd here in nz. not to sure about getting lux diffs cert'd but that would be the way i'd go for diffs how much wider would they make the wheel base coz i need that for sidlings. i'm a student so cost means a big thing to me. i would also love a big motor but costs of running it would probly be to high.
the boy racers would shit them selves seeing a fez/rocky smoke it up at the lights then leavem for dead lol.
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:16 pm
by r0ck_m0nkey
2roky wrote:not to sure about getting lux diffs cert'd but that would be the way i'd go for diffs how much wider would they make the wheel base coz i need that for sidlings.
A Hilux wheel track is a fraction narrower then a wide track Feroza, also can get 5.29 diff centres for them, which brings yo back to stock gearing.
2roky wrote:i'm a student so cost means a big thing to me. i would also love a big motor but costs of running it would probly be to high.
If cost is a big thing, you are going down the wrong path, trade it in and buy something else.
Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 10:46 pm
by HotFourOk
r0ck_m0nkey wrote:
If cost is a big thing, you are going down the wrong path, trade it in and buy something else.
Couldn't say it better... Custom work always costs double what you expect to pay...
Have fun with the Fez for a few years, save your money, then go buy something bigger when you are ready. Thats what I'm doing
Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 6:46 am
by 2roky
at this moment while i'm n uni cost is a big thing but in 3-4 years it wont be and i've decided to do this becoz ut different and will have people lookin an scratchn there heads wonderin what they just saw
Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 11:02 am
by Toyhatsu
G'Day All,
Nope...not dead yet.
2rocky: I get that look a lot. Did the Toyota thing in mine. It is expensive but so is a car payment. I spent two years gathering parts before I swapped engines and stuff. So lt wasn't an expense all at once. Did the SAS two years before and that wasn't too bad. Redid the front suspension last year and went from leafs to no springs...much better. I am very happy with the Toyota parts. Still working on it when I feel like it. Have two 5.71:1 thirds with ARB's that need to go in at some point. If you plan on keeping it go with Toyota or something and not have to concern yourself with getting parts.
Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 6:18 pm
by 2roky
awsome have you got a few pics of your truck you could email me
cameronmaxwell@xtra.co.nz. would you recommend going coils straight off or get leaves first? i no coils are the shizz in the offroad world. how much harder would they be to do than leaves. and what kind of springs and shocks should i use in terms of cost quaility? still haven't decided on what sized or type of engine but the drive chain will be changed to a stronger/better type.
Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:43 pm
by Toyhatsu
Yes I'll email you some pics. I lost all of my build up pictures in a hard drive crash.
The rear suspension is the stock Daihatsu leaf springs over the axle and some longer cheap shocks. The rear axle is from a `91 truck and the front is from an `85 4Runner. Newer front suspension is Range Rover radius arms, track bar and nitrogen/ oil shocks. I used 12" FoxShox with no coilovers. This is the softest most cushy ride I have ever experienced in the Feroza/ Rocky with great onroad handling. It's my only daily driver. The three link front is the most simple, strongest and cheapest front suspension...in my opinion.
I chose the 3RZfe engine which is a 150hp four cylinder, cheap extractors, Nology hotwires, irridiam plugs and K&N. About 180hp now with good gas milage. Behind that is a W56D heavy duty five speed, dual transfer cases with twin sticks in the rear case and custom drive shafts. I have 2WD low, 2WD double low, 4WD high and low and 4WD double high and low...30 different forward gears and 6 different reverse gears.
The whole drivetrain and suspension is very strong and parts are in the Toyota distributors everywhere.
Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:52 pm
by 2roky
sounds like a good set up that you've got how hard is it to get the front end all set up on a solid diff ie how many hrs work are needed. how hard would it be to change the rear suspension to some thing softer than the leaves or wouldn't it be worth worrying about?
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 9:23 am
by Toyhatsu
That would depend on how good you are at fabricating. Brackets would have to be made for the front and rear of the radius arms, brackets for the track bar, the track bar itself with Heim joints, shock hoops etc..
If you do leafs in the front you are still going to have to do some fabricating and the stock Daihatsu shock towers are way too short. So some shock hoops are in order.
I was able to use the Daihatsu steering box but the drag link and tie rod had to be fabbed with 3/4" Heim joints and 1 1/2" chromolly.
Before you can do any of it you have to torch or cut off the IFS and do quite a lot of grinding.
I had someone do the front end, build steering parts as my life depends on good welding a fabricating. I cut the old perches off of the rear axle and welded new perches on and set the axle back one inch. Then there is the brakes which I did all. Stainless steel brake lines, used the Daihatsu master cylinder which was a little small and had to add a 10 lb residual valve, used the Daihatsu safety valve and a new in cab proportioning valve. The reason the master cylinder is small is that the Toyota brakes are around 11" and the Daihatsu's are about 8.5"...I don't remember and I don't have the service manuals handy. I also installed turning brakes. In an engine swap you have to do the heating/ cooling systems, engine wiring, body wiring, exhaust, drive shafts, cross member, fuel delivery etc.
The rear suspension is just great. The Daihatsu leafs are actually a flat spring which is ideal for up and down travel as well as being soft. I have some leafs that I was going to add to the packs but I haven't needed them. I have had them go negative arch a lot and they are still good. I originally had the shocks angled too much and have since reduced the angle and there is very little body roll and the shocks dampen much better. I forget what brand the shocks are but they were quite a bit cheaper than Ranchos. I have had to add a limit strap to the rear axle because of the short drive shaft and the great deal of travel. I also had to add a steering stabilizer to the front axle when I went to 35" tires.
I have been building this up for eight years a little here and there...sometimes a lot here and there. I did the Toyota axles first and ran the Daihatsu 1/6L, tranny, xfer case and modified Daihatsu drive shafts running 33" tires for about five years. At the same time I had 5.71:1 R&P gears and a TruTrak installed in the rear. I had more power with the 5.71's and 33's then I did with stock Daihatsu axles and 31's...that was nice. Then with Daihatsu USA's obligations to supply parts fulfilled they pretty much pulled out. That's when I decided to do the rest of the drive train. There was nothing wrong with my Daihatsu engine. It ran great I just didn't travel any farther than I wanted to be towed home. I sold the engine, two transmissions, transfer case and a bunch of other stuff to a friend and he is still running strong with it. He doesn't do much off roading. I was doing upper moderate to difficult trails and broke stuff.
Sorry for running off at the keyboard.
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 9:25 am
by Toyhatsu
PS: My avatar is when I had 33" tires
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 9:38 am
by 2roky
wouldn't be worried but running off its all info that is usefull to me and to others. like you i'd get a pro to do all the welding and fabrication work as i don't have the time or the skill to do it. i can do the grinding and easy stuff though which helps a fair bit. 35's!!!!!! i like at the mot i running stock gearing and 31's and its as gut less as in 2wd absolutely hates hills on the open road. i'd also get an autosparky to do the wiring i haven't got the mind for it an i hate wires and electicity been bitten by to many fences that were turned off
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 1:09 pm
by SimplyPV
then be prepared to take a VERY HARD HIT on your wallet. i was orignally aiming for something similar to what kent had... i finally got nailed down to two choices.... go to college, or pour my life, blood, sweat, tears, and $$ into the rocky. i chose college. so now my rocky is for sale as i've put the entire project into the too expensive basket.
maybe after college i'll be makin good money to have enough to pick up another cheap rocky and pour 10 grand into her just for fun.
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 1:19 pm
by 2roky
thankfully i know a few engineers who can probly do the fabrication and the welding for cheeper than most. parts are no prob to get either here in nz. there's always someone drowning or writing off a truck in someway. you've just got to be vigilent. can't wait till i start workin full time then i'll be able to do this. buy a cheep car to run round in while the works being done. i think
Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 12:21 pm
by Toyhatsu
G'Day PV glad to see you're still around. Last I heard you were selling the Rocky and getting a hotrod.
2roky will send you a couple of piccies tonight which is actually tomorrow over there. Was going to take some new pics today but we had a blizzard that dumped two feet of snow...sent us home from work and pretty shut down the city...I didn't have any problems.
Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 6:07 am
by crazyfroza
hi 2roky, just some input from a fellow kiwi, i have 2 f300's one for modification & one stocker that I use for club events, if you want the most fun with your pants one throw some 30 or 31" muddy's on some deep offset rims, chuck a bigger exhaust on it chuck out the std air cleaner & let rip, mine is even std height suspension & has no trouble running with the bigger & better setup trucks with the exception of deep ruts & mud, but getting stuck is half the fun & believe me a fez with lots of noise @ 6500-7000 rpm is lots of fun.......momentum is your friend. if you still want a modified fez, forget certing & go for it. project frog 2 is in the jigsaw stage but should be ready for next winter. 3.8 v6, auto, coils & lux diffs.......good luck
Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 8:45 am
by 2roky
i'm gona make me truck road leagal due to the fact that i want to be diff from every1 else who cruses round in a lifted hilux, safari etc. which is becoming pretty standard these days.
what kind of motor are you putting in your project. and is there any chance of you emailing me a set of instructions of how to do the coils or at least leaf sprung (front end). i'd been interested to see how its done.
photo's of your toys would be sweet as well
cheers cam
Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 4:47 am
by crazyfroza
Commodore v6 & auto, plans?? nup make it up as we go, but no problem I will be pleased to send you pics as we go......coils all round!!
Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 7:24 am
by ferozamaniac
crazfroza once u do the project open a new post to see ur modifications
Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 4:33 pm
by crazyfroza
yep sure, plan is to start end of november & have it ready for the mud next winter
should be fun!!