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Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 1:13 pm
by jono_785
hey i to need ideas of design as well. am also very interested to see how tube bars mount up to the chassis as well. anyone with pics of professionally made tube bars??? or home made??

Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:12 pm
by ado250
Haven't done it (yet) but thought about it. I would Get myself an RHS just smaller than the zook chassis rail and insert inside zook chassis rail as far as it will go, then bolt it in with say 3(??) Grade 8.8 M14's. Should give you about 20-25Tonne worth of load capacity.

Could do the same thing I guess with plate, and then build the tubes out off the plates.

Just a guess.

Ado

Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:14 pm
by P_Byrne
Here's how my custom bar (pro made) is mounted.

Image

It "plugs into" the chassis rail as a solid block, then bolted.
You can see the holes for thr recovery hook.

Here's the rest of the bar:

Image

Paul

Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:15 pm
by Rhett
If doing it that way be sure to put crush tubes in the rhs

Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 8:30 am
by =SKB=
Found this idea a while back:

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Might be helpful.

Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 11:08 am
by x rated
=SKB= wrote:Found this idea a while back:

Image

Might be helpful.
I like the idea of being able to clean the chassis out with the hose and not trapping it inside.... unlike this pick.

the sierras are great for being able to clean the inside of the chassis, as for the vitara... there are so many rusty ones because there is no way to flush the chassis from front to back...???

Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 11:57 am
by MUD-PIGSIERRA
I didnt make it but its a Stinger bar on my Sierra, it uses four bolts in total and uses crush tube the metal brackets mount on the inside of the chassis and allow for water to come out.

The bar
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:12 pm
by P_Byrne
The tube is still there, I have though of reinforcing that tube as well.

It's a similar concept, but rather than crush tubes, there is an exactly fitting solid block inside the rails, so the force is spread more evenly.

I only have one recovery point on at the moment, will get same done on the other side - this will make for a nice even pull along both chassis rails, not just one side which could bend things.

Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 12:31 pm
by smiley_smoke
i like the look of that bar. i am chasing the same sort (without the middle loop) for my NT. does anyone know of a good place to get one made up in WA?

cheers

Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 12:35 pm
by nicbeer
Check the fabricators out or the 4x4 shops, opposite lock, check on perth4x4, maybe someone can do you one that has a tube bender and welder

Nic

Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 12:36 pm
by smiley_smoke
thanks Nic.. will check it out.

Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 9:38 pm
by smiley_smoke
on the same topic (sorry to hijack) does anyone have some good ideas for a rear bar to match the front. i was thinking of going down the same build as p_byrnes above for the front bar and nto sure of a rear setup.. nothing fancy but simple.. and usable. pref with recovery points incorporated into the design.

cheers.

(i do have a few pms off perth4x4 so will follow those up in the meantime.. if anything is solid i will take photos for all etc)

Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 11:11 pm
by nicbeer
Do you want tube or box?

Mines box and strong as inc tyre carrier.

Nic

Posted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 8:06 am
by ausyota
smiley_smoke wrote:on the same topic (sorry to hijack) does anyone have some good ideas for a rear bar to match the front. i was thinking of going down the same build as p_byrnes above for the front bar and nto sure of a rear setup.. nothing fancy but simple.. and usable. pref with recovery points incorporated into the design.

cheers.

(i do have a few pms off perth4x4 so will follow those up in the meantime.. if anything is solid i will take photos for all etc)
Here is how I did my rear bar and also my front bar.
I havnt got any pics of the mounts but the front is bolted on same as above and the rear is bolted through the old towbar holes in chasi.
Image
Image

Posted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 9:50 am
by vicelore
sorry for the hijack but is there any legal issues with tube bars ?

Posted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 11:12 am
by =SKB=
vicelore wrote:sorry for the hijack but is there any legal issues with tube bars ?
Not unless you maim a pedestrian.

Posted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 11:22 am
by smiley_smoke
nicbeer wrote:Do you want tube or box?

Mines box and strong as inc tyre carrier.

Nic
i am not too bothered. i want neat and functional. was leaning towards tube for the front and box for rear.
a rear bar with tyre carrier would be great actually. you make it yourself Nic?

Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 6:34 pm
by meatc1
hi i have just built a winch mount for my 413. plate goes between chassis rails on horizontal with plates down chassis rails bolted through holes as shown above. then have 2 vertical plates with hal circle cut out going onto round cross member. then 2 u-bolts up into plate locking hole unit onto croass member. have sleeved cross member with another tube for xtra strength. will try and post some pics once i have painted mount but before i put it on and after. may mount tube type bar to it at some stage.

to bend break would need to tear four 12mm high tensile bolts out of chassis and bend/break cross member

hpe this helps

Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 6:42 pm
by nicbeer
Got any pics of this?

Nic

Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 12:14 am
by smiley_smoke
sounds good. i have decided on my design though. its based on the calmini C2 .. just better :D
will be making it in the new year and possibly making two at once (may sell the other one)
chose this one as it should be good for articulation and will prevent rubbing when i get bigger tyres as it doesnt require the outter bumper mounts (cut em off)
i just cant make em at my stupid unit.. need to sweet talk my mate into to using his welder etc.
here is a pic from a guy called Max in Netherlands. been chatting to him lately, he is a real champ and has helped out a lot.
Image
hope he doesnt mind me posting his pic here

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 2:16 pm
by coxy321
Hi all. I've been trying to nut this idea out for the last year or so (for my brothers' Sierra). I like smiley_smoke's one.

Does/has any got/seen how the ARB winch bars mount up?? I love the other bars - but i've got a nice fresh Warn high-mount sitting in my shed that i'd like to put on my recently aquired '91 W/T.

Surely a company like ARB would have some whizz-bang flash way of mounting a winch-bar up. For $1300 you'd bloody want it too!!!

Cheers - Coxy

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 3:13 pm
by nicbeer
:lol: :lol: Yeh right. Basically ueses the outriggers that hold the factory bumper and the 4 x chassis holes. + pure luck.

This is how my arb is modded for the 2" BL as arb is not made for a BL. basically a box with curved back to fit inside chassis rail and then bar onto this.

Non winch bar and winch bar mount the same.

Image

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Nic

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 3:34 pm
by coxy321
Beauty... :? Thats a bit dissapointing then. Spose i'll have to knock off one of the other guys' ideas then hey!!

Coxy

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 3:42 pm
by nicbeer
coxy321 wrote:Beauty... :? Thats a bit dissapointing then. Spose i'll have to knock off one of the other guys' ideas then hey!!

Coxy
Also arb bars dont fit a high mount up at all. low 6000 only i think

Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 7:52 pm
by Shrek Zook
=SKB= wrote:Found this idea a while back:

Image

Might be helpful.
Do u think that would be stonger enough mount for a 6000 pound winch?

Winch bar

Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:32 pm
by want33s
I'm in the process of building my winch bar. I'm fitting a 9500lb electric. I used 130x8mm for the uprights which bolt to the four holes at the front of the chassis(with 'cyclone rod joiner' crush tubes). 130x8 x 575 between these sits on the pipe crossmember. 2 5000kg 50mm round U-bolts clamp to this pipe. 2 braces of 50x6 run at a 45 back to the chassis where it is U-bolted with 100mm square u bolts. Theres also two holes each side in the front body mount pedestals, might use them too. I'll cut the ends off and use the centre section of bumper bar to cover the winch and mounts with just the fairlead, gear lever and solenoid box visible. 50mm round pipe for the ends in a triangle. When finished the front of the fairlead should only be about 50mm further out than the number plate used to be. I have a three inch body lift which really helps!.. I have it two thirds finished. I'll post more pics when done.
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