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Rear Main Replacement Cost
Posted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 5:58 pm
by D_Web
Looks like I am going to have to bite the bullet and get the rear main replaced on my TD42. There seems to be quite a bit on the starter motor and around the bell housing, so hopefully it's just that.
Any idea on what sort of cost I would be looking at to have this done?
Posted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 7:54 pm
by chops
I'd be replacing the clutch at the same time
so add another $600-ish to the total
Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 1:19 pm
by D_Web
chops wrote:I'd be replacing the clutch at the same time
so add another $600-ish to the total
I'd love to, but I don't think my budget is going to stretch that far right now :(
Any idea on just what the seal would be?
Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 3:08 pm
by badger
my guess 400 -500 ish cos thats about what it costs in labour to do a clutch hence why chops said to do a clutch when you are in there.
if the clutch is getting old ud be stupid to pay the labour 2 times. and you buy a clutch 4 under 300 providing you dont have huge power to hold.
Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 3:19 pm
by blkmav
My rear main was leaking and clutch was farked, $900 fixed the lot.
Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 4:51 pm
by Daisy
if u dont want to do the clutch yet.. then leave it.. it'll leak for a while.. til you save up the dollars and get it all done in one whole hog
personally its a waste of time and money if you just replace the main seal and not do the clutch only to find that you've gotta do the clutch again sometime soon and its just double the work for nothing.
how bads the leak?... if its just a drip and a drop now and then.. its doin its job and keepin your underbelly rust free
Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 9:38 pm
by Artificial_Aspiration
Do it yourself, drop the box, $20 seal, if your that tight for cash just replace the clutch plate $120, 2 mates and $50 for 2 slabs
I'll drink to That
Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 10:36 pm
by Woop
If oil has contaminated the clutch plate, then it will soften the lining material and may make the clutch shudder. But you might be lucky
If you feel competant, go and hire an engine hoist and do it yourself. Use the hoist with a sling through the transmission tunnel gear shift hole and tolley jack to balance. BUT as has been said, you'll feel like crap when you pull it out only to find other stuff that needs doing--eg clutch/throw-out bearing etc..
Nick
Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 12:48 pm
by badger
especially if you do it on a sunday and cant get the parts:)
the rear main on my triton leaked for 20000kms wheil i saved to do the clutch at the same time. oil did contaminate the clutch plate tho. and it was prone to slippage when loaded up pretty muvh from the say i saw the oil leak
Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 1:05 pm
by DieselBoy
Its not just oil from changing the oil filters that has run down onto the starter motor and around the bellhousing??
I know mine has alot of oil over the starter motor and around that area from changing the filters, but when i pull the rubber plug out of the bellhousing drain hole, it is dry indicating the rear main seal is ok and the oil is coming from somewhere else
Could even be coming from the rocker cover............
Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 4:33 pm
by D_Web
While I don't mind a bit of DIY I can see myself dropping the box out and me being crushed under it
DieselBoy wrote:Its not just oil from changing the oil filters that has run down onto the starter motor and around the bellhousing??
I know mine has alot of oil over the starter motor and around that area from changing the filters, but when i pull the rubber plug out of the bellhousing drain hole, it is dry indicating the rear main seal is ok and the oil is coming from somewhere else
Could even be coming from the rocker cover............
It's loosing oil, so it is coming from somewhere, whether it is actually the rear main I do not know. I might have to give it a degrease and try and find out.
Cost wise if a clutch is only a few hundred extra $$$ I could stretch for it.
Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 5:05 pm
by badger
the only added cost for a clutch is the cost of the clutch itself and machining the flywheel.
[/quote]but when i pull the rubber plug out of the bellhousing drain hole, it is dry indicating the rear main seal is ok and the oil is coming from somewhere else
[/quote]
my rear main was gone badly and there still was no oil above the bellhousing drain hole. it depends on if if finds somewhere else to weep out of or not.
if i were you id be going nuts with degreaser then going for a lil drive and looking for signs of the leak if you arent 100%sure its the rear main. its not a quick second job to suck it and see