Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all,
Ive just put a 7mge (Supra 3 litre inline 6) into my 89 dualcab lux using brand new engine mounts. The problem is the motor moves around a bit on the new mounts so im looking into chaining them down. Are there any unfavourable effects of doing this?
cheers
SASS

the vibration may shake the chassis to crack or wobble you accross a lane.

i have just done this to my GQ, as i was breakin passenger side engine mounts a bit, what i did was use some wire rope, i tied mine down so that it sits loose at rest, but when it tourques up, it pulls up tight, and wont let the engine mount break,

as long as you let the engine move around a bit, and it isnt always tight you should be right,

Feroza's break passenger side engine mounts regularly. A lot of the lads use a piece of seat belt material to limit the movement.

AJFeroza wrote:Feroza's break passenger side engine mounts regularly. A lot of the lads use a piece of seat belt material to limit the movement.

Must be because of all that power lurking under the bonnet .

Loanrangie wrote:

AJFeroza wrote:Feroza's break passenger side engine mounts regularly. A lot of the lads use a piece of seat belt material to limit the movement.

Must be because of all that power lurking under the bonnet .

Thats funny because my big 1.3 does passenger side mounts!
Tp much power i guesse

suzuki boy wrote:

Loanrangie wrote:

AJFeroza wrote:Feroza's break passenger side engine mounts regularly. A lot of the lads use a piece of seat belt material to limit the movement.

Must be because of all that power lurking under the bonnet .

Thats funny because my big 1.3 does passenger side mounts!
Tp much power i guesse

Comes from dumping the clutch to get wheel spin.

SASS wrote:Hi all,
Ive just put a 7mge (Supra 3 litre inline 6) into my 89 dualcab lux using brand new engine mounts. The problem is the motor moves around a bit on the new mounts so im looking into chaining them down. Are there any unfavourable effects of doing this?
cheers
SASS

Brand new Genuine? Or Aftermarket?

Genuine mounts are the only one to use in a Toyota.

After market ones. Aslong as i leave some slack the chains should work fine. I dont think the motor has enough power to crack the chassis.

Wouldn't the chains rattle like crazy??

I think the seatbelt is a grand idea

Wat about an engine dampner like they use on drift cars

AJFeroza wrote:Feroza's break passenger side engine mounts regularly. A lot of the lads use a piece of seat belt material to limit the movement.

Here's one my bro (Clint) made up some time back for his passenger side mount on the Roza.









If you do a search in the Hatsu section you'll probably find the thread discussing it.

Hope it helps...

sweet.

genius!!!!

very clever!! i was going to chain the V8 in my Patrol.... but i have a big roll of that webbing..... strong as hell too.

ozy1 wrote:i have just done this to my GQ, as i was breakin passenger side engine mounts a bit, what i did was use some wire rope, i tied mine down so that it sits loose at rest, but when it tourques up, it pulls up tight, and wont let the engine mount break,

as long as you let the engine move around a bit, and it isnt always tight you should be right,

That's exactly what I did although I used chain instead. When I put reduction gears in the engine was torqueing up that much that the fan wore through the radiator shroud.

I havn't broken a mount since.

Cheers Mick.

Mick. wrote:

ozy1 wrote:i have just done this to my GQ, as i was breakin passenger side engine mounts a bit, what i did was use some wire rope, i tied mine down so that it sits loose at rest, but when it tourques up, it pulls up tight, and wont let the engine mount break,

as long as you let the engine move around a bit, and it isnt always tight you should be right,

That's exactly what I did although I used chain instead. When I put reduction gears in the engine was torqueing up that much that the fan wore through the radiator shroud.

I havn't broken a mount since.

Cheers Mick.

mine hasnt worn throught the fan shroud yet, but the fan is approx 10mm smaller,

ozy1 wrote:

Mick. wrote:

ozy1 wrote:i have just done this to my GQ, as i was breakin passenger side engine mounts a bit, what i did was use some wire rope, i tied mine down so that it sits loose at rest, but when it tourques up, it pulls up tight, and wont let the engine mount break,

as long as you let the engine move around a bit, and it isnt always tight you should be right,

That's exactly what I did although I used chain instead. When I put reduction gears in the engine was torqueing up that much that the fan wore through the radiator shroud.

I havn't broken a mount since.

Cheers Mick.

mine hasnt worn throught the fan shroud yet, but the fan is approx 10mm smaller,

So is mine now after wearing it away. I wasn't real happy because the fan & viscous coupling where brand new. I think because mine was an auto may have made it worse also.

Cheers Mick.

Mick. wrote:

ozy1 wrote:

Mick. wrote:

ozy1 wrote:i have just done this to my GQ, as i was breakin passenger side engine mounts a bit, what i did was use some wire rope, i tied mine down so that it sits loose at rest, but when it tourques up, it pulls up tight, and wont let the engine mount break,

as long as you let the engine move around a bit, and it isnt always tight you should be right,

That's exactly what I did although I used chain instead. When I put reduction gears in the engine was torqueing up that much that the fan wore through the radiator shroud.

I havn't broken a mount since.

Cheers Mick.

mine hasnt worn throught the fan shroud yet, but the fan is approx 10mm smaller,

So is mine now after wearing it away. I wasn't real happy because the fan & viscous coupling where brand new. I think because mine was an auto may have made it worse also.

Cheers Mick.

evrything you wrote, is exactly the same here, TB42, auto, rockhoppers, brand new fan and viscous coupling, well they were neaw before the first mount broke,

maybe I just look at this different but to me the problem is not how much the engine is torque on the mounts it is the angle of the mounts and where the force is being transfered in relation to the strengh and weak points of mounts

I have seen high HP engines that riped mounts in one pass on a drag strip no long rip mounts out when well designed engine mounts were used

on more extreme engines then some kind of tie down strap is needed but I could not imagine an engine of this nature in a 4x4 it would not be real useful and certianly aint your toy I6

IMHO rethink your mounts location and maybe consider a torque arm on the transmission mount

What part of the mount are you breaking? Metal, bolts, rubber? I have had good success with getting standard mounts redone with urethane. Reduces a huge amount of movement!

AussieCJ7 wrote:maybe I just look at this different but to me the problem is not how much the engine is torque on the mounts it is the angle of the mounts and where the force is being transfered in relation to the strengh and weak points of mounts

X2 - I've just done a gearbox conversion - had to re-do the transmission mounts, they were originally on a ~40 degree angle. I stuffed up and fabbed up new mounts which are now around 15 degrees. The drivetrain now jiggles around big time. Fitted a chassis rod which has helped the longitudal movement but does nothing for lateral slop.

AussieCJ7 wrote:maybe I just look at this different but to me the problem is not how much the engine is torque on the mounts it is the angle of the mounts and where the force is being transfered in relation to the strengh and weak points of mounts

I have seen high HP engines that riped mounts in one pass on a drag strip no long rip mounts out when well designed engine mounts were used

on more extreme engines then some kind of tie down strap is needed but I could not imagine an engine of this nature in a 4x4 it would not be real useful and certianly aint your toy I6

IMHO rethink your mounts location and maybe consider a torque arm on the transmission mount

If there factory mount they should be in the best possable spot wouldn't they?

I think the main reason that patrol mounts break when a bit of torque is put on them is because they don't have a metal folded lip over each other like the old holden mounts for example do which stops the rubber from over flexing and ripping apart.

You also have to remember that when a real torquey engine in a race car is taking off (when most mounts usually seem to break) the wheels will usually spin a little bit at least which helps relieve the stress a little on the drive line, diffs, engine mounts etc.

A 4wd running 36 inch tyres (10psi or less) twin lockers etc isn't going to spin wheels as easy which means a lot more torque running through the drive line, diffs, engine mounts etc and the weakest link is going to be the first to break which in the patrols is usually the rubber in the engine mount.

Cheers Mick.

Mick. wrote:

AussieCJ7 wrote:maybe I just look at this different but to me the problem is not how much the engine is torque on the mounts it is the angle of the mounts and where the force is being transfered in relation to the strengh and weak points of mounts

I have seen high HP engines that riped mounts in one pass on a drag strip no long rip mounts out when well designed engine mounts were used

on more extreme engines then some kind of tie down strap is needed but I could not imagine an engine of this nature in a 4x4 it would not be real useful and certianly aint your toy I6

IMHO rethink your mounts location and maybe consider a torque arm on the transmission mount

If there factory mount they should be in the best possable spot wouldn't they?

I think the main reason that patrol mounts break when a bit of torque is put on them is because they don't have a metal folded lip over each other like the old holden mounts for example do which stops the rubber from over flexing and ripping apart.

You also have to remember that when a real torquey engine in a race car is taking off (when most mounts usually seem to break) the wheels will usually spin a little bit at least which helps relieve the stress a little on the drive line, diffs, engine mounts etc.

A 4wd running 36 inch tyres (10psi or less) twin lockers etc isn't going to spin wheels as easy which means a lot more torque running through the drive line, diffs, engine mounts etc and the weakest link is going to be the first to break which in the patrols is usually the rubber in the engine mount.

Cheers Mick.

1st of the topic was based on a engine conversion of a surpa I6 into a hilux so the engine mounts have been fabed/aftermarket

However in your case, I am not really familar with the exact details of the nissan issues but it would not be the 1st time a manufature made a comprimise to allow for other design requirements to be met

No mate my engine mounts arent custom jobs they are standard 22r mounts that bolt to 5mge upper mount witch bolts to the 7mge block!! It all lines up with standard stuff. its just my new 22r mounts have alot of movement and might need straping.

Sounds to me like Mick has hit the nail on the head.
Have some metal tabs fabbed onto your standard mounts that hook the top half to the bottom half.

Should not be too hard to organise.

Cheers

Whats wrong with the webbing idear ? cheap and easy.

Whats wrong with the webbing idear ? cheap and easy.

Cheap is such a nasty word on ya forby, but i guess it may work.

cheers

Stick a "Greenie" under your bonnet, they'll chain down anything.....

Struth wrote:

Whats wrong with the webbing idear ? cheap and easy.

Cheap is such a nasty word on ya forby, but i guess it may work.

cheers

Ummm....it does