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help me please - suspension

Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2003 8:16 pm
by jasonmcc
Hi everyone

Sorry for sounding so useless but i have read just about every post about suspension and still dont know what to do.

I want my sierra to have more height and more articulation.

I am looking at raised leaves and extended 4 way shocks from SUZISPORT. They seem good and are cheap.

What I dont understand is, i would like to get some say 2 inch extended shackles to lift it a bit more.

But what happens when the car will then it with its shocks closer to full travel, so when one wheel is pushed up and that shock/spring compresses the other side is not going to be able to extended as far before the shock limits travel.

So one tell me what i should i do with my suspension i want to run 30" tyres and dont want to weld anything.

What would it cost to do your own springover, does that sound like the thing to do. Dont worry im in darwin and cops or rego wouldnt even know what springover means.

Thanks Jason

Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2003 8:29 pm
by bigsteve
My Spring over cost me about $800

I have Sigma Monroe shocks in the rear ($39 for the opair) which are an inch longer than my previous rancho's.

However with 30's a SPOA is gunna look a little strange.

just buy OME 2.5 inch springs (Greg has posted numerously about these springs) and sigma/VR commodore shocks for the rear and Hz shocks for the front.

Ad some longer shackles (About $50-$80 for decent High tensile steel bolts)

You'll have lift and longer travel all for well under $1000

Thanks munna

Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2003 8:50 pm
by jasonmcc
Thanks a lot for that message. So you reckon i should just make my own shackles or just buy some.

When making them how, do u use a brace between the to main bolts. Do u just put a another bolt in there or weld a bit of tube.


Thanks

Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2003 10:57 pm
by Gutless
When I made mine, I used 10mm plate for the shackles, with a piece of crush tube in the centre. It was bolted trough with high tensile bolts, and nylock nuts. I drove shackle first into many rock walls, and they didn't break/ bend or anything.

You could also weld the crush tube in if you like.

Whole job cost $40 inc. bolts.

Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2003 11:20 pm
by bigsteve
I used 10mm plate for mine but will be replacing them with C channel as they do not move left to right (Just forwards and backwards) at all.

Greg Or Grimbo will probably be able to post a pick of the their shackles hang on,

here we go

Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2003 9:25 am
by greg
Gutless wrote:When I made mine, I used 10mm plate for the shackles, with a piece of crush tube in the centre. It was bolted trough with high tensile bolts, and nylock nuts. I drove shackle first into many rock walls, and they didn't break/ bend or anything.

You could also weld the crush tube in if you like.

Whole job cost $40 inc. bolts.


Granted that this setup will create a strong shackle... But if you don't put in the crush tube and just run two seperate "shackle pieces" (as per the pic of my car in big steve's post), you will get more flex as it will allow the shackles to take some of the 'twist' on behalf of the springs.

Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2003 9:26 am
by greg
bigsteve wrote:I used 10mm plate for mine but will be replacing them with C channel as they do not move left to right (Just forwards and backwards) at all.

Greg Or Grimbo will probably be able to post a pick of the their shackles hang on,

here we go


Damn - looks like we missed something with that paint :oops:

Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2003 10:12 am
by christover1
I agree OME and C channel. A small change in shackle length wont affect travel badly. I just let the spring hang on the shock, then measured gap in spring to shackle. Made em that long. christover

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Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2003 8:08 pm
by SAWZALL
Pick the springs you want to run. Fit them and work out the shackles you need (both from angle and height concerns) then you can flex it and see how long your shocks need to be. There are about a billion different shocks that will fit.