Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Have just upsized the tyres on my Discovery from 235/85's to 265/75's.

Despite all i have read about this size fitting with my setup, I still have some major rubbing in certain places which I will need to resolve (with a dremel

)

The front is a little more problematic. The drivers side wheel on even moderate compression rubs on the back of the wheel arch near the bottom of the door. There is plenty of room forward however as it is no where near touching my bullbar. I'd rather not chop this panel coz it would look pretty bodge IMO.

Is it feasible to use some spacer washers on both my radius arms to push them forward a bit (say 30mm max)? I'm thinking it may also have an effect on my steering geometry?

TuffRR wrote:I'm thinking it may also have an effect on my steering geometry?

yep...
and your coils wont be vertical anymore ..

just BL the bitch

25-30mm bl should almost do it.

landy_man wrote: just BL the bitch

Tourer. Not going to happen.

Any one with some sensible suggestions?

One problem you will have is if you push it forward by more than 10-15mm, your panhard bushes may bind and cause some weird behaviour and as Craig said you will also push the spring pads forward making them more likely to bind as well.

TuffRR wrote:Is it feasible to use some spacer washers on both my radius arms to push them forward a bit (say 30mm max)? I'm thinking it may also have an effect on my steering geometry?

If there is enough thread left it sounds like be a good idea. Enough to clear the guard?

something I done to my patrol... 12mm spacers search through the nissan section there is plenty of info. this mixed with some minor gaurd cutting and everything looked good

as you lift your car, the radius arms travel in an arc down and back thus even a 2" lift (which i assume you have) will "pull" the tire back towards the drivers door a fraction.

Simon

Plenty of touring rangies and discos with a small BL.

I have also seen plenty with the rear edge of the front guard trimmed slightly and they look fine.

But moving the axle forward in the way you suggest shouldn't affect anything in a big way if it is only 10mm or so.

Umm...I'm still stuck on why a body lift is NOT a sensible idea

I mean...compared to the dodgy idea that you are suggesting, a body lift sounds simply logical.

Lets look at it for a second, shall we?...

1. Use spacers at the radius arm mount to push the front diff forward with unknown effects on steering geometry and risk having your insurance company wipe you for illegal mods.

or...

2. Use approved materials to do an engineered approved body lift and have no further problems.

Oh...but its a tourer, so it can't possibly be subjected to something as radical as a body lift

Micka wrote:Umm...I'm still stuck on why a body lift is NOT a sensible idea

I mean...compared to the dodgy idea that you are suggesting, a body lift sounds simply logical.

Lets look at it for a second, shall we?...

1. Use spacers at the radius arm mount to push the front diff forward with unknown effects on steering geometry and risk having your insurance company wipe you for illegal mods.

or...

2. Use approved materials to do an engineered approved body lift and have no further problems.

Oh...but its a tourer, so it can't possibly be subjected to something as radical as a body lift

Have to say I agree Micka. I know people who have done more touring than most in OZ with BL'd rovers.

I would have thought that changing from 235/85/16 to a 265/75/16 would have had zero effect. They are about 2mm different in OD.

Is it the extra width of the 265 that is causing the problem?

What is it like on the rear spring mounts? I would imagine that the 265s would be rubbing there too. Or do you have zero offset rims?

I've got nothing against body lifts - I've got a 2 inch BL in the Rangie which is fine for its purpose.

The discovery is a tourer and also the wifes car to drive around town. The point is to have it no higher than necessary and if i can do this without a BL then this is what i would prefer.

These 265's (Mickey T MTZ's) are a fair bit taller than my old 235's (Nankang Mudstars). It's not the width which is a problem though coz my old 235's used to rub in the same spot, just not so bad. All this on standard D1 steels - no rubbing on spring mounts.

Micka wrote: Lets look at it for a second, shall we?...

1. Use spacers at the radius arm mount to push the front diff forward with unknown effects on steering geometry and risk having your insurance company wipe you for illegal mods.

This is the point of my post - unknown effects on steering geometry. So can you enlighten me as to what these "unknown" effects are so that i can make an informed decision.

If you do it, there is not much you can moce it, because that nyloc still has to grip, maybe you could machine some off it, but i wouldn't get greedy, so just pack it out and tell us what happens

Or fit a body lift or trim the gaurds

I'm with the no body lift.....

I would space the front radius arms 10 - 15mm MAX and the front end will work fine. I think if you do this you will have to trim very little out of the guard.

Infact I'm planning on doing a 2" coil lift and lengthern rear arms and space front arms and fit 255/85's with minimal outer guard cutting

I'm still unsure as to why this size tyre is hitting. Is is hiting the mud flap mounts?? We have had this problem with larger tyres, but soon fixed it with a very big knocking stick (hammer). Outer guards edges should be OK, and if not I'm with the trim them off brigade.

BL may not fix cause interference as suspension compression will still allow wheels/tyres to hit unless your BL is massive.

I've attached a pic to hopefully better explain where it is hitting. I reckon I could get close to a 10mm spacer on the radius arms with still leaving enough thread to exit the locknut.

It does seem to be a popular mod to Patrols to move axles forward using spacers - haven't read of any problems with Patrols....

I am surprised bout this 'cause we fitted 33's to ours and only had to trim a bit off there. Sure your front axle is in the right place, ie not pushed back due to slogged out rubbers/bushes??

I don't think a 10mm push would make any difference to handling etc given the standard axles could in theory move this much on the standard rubbers under extreme conditions.

Give it a go!!

Reddo wrote:I am surprised bout this 'cause we fitted 33's to ours and only had to trim a bit off there. Sure your front axle is in the right place, ie not pushed back due to slogged out rubbers/bushes??

I had thought this although they look fine visually from the outside. I have also got under and checked for movement on takeoff etc but there is nothing noticeable.

I think these are pretty big for 32's even.

I have the best idea!

I'll swap u my 245/75/16 ATR's and u Give me yr MT MTZ's and let me deal with the rubbing problems..... and i'll throw in a pack of carrots!!

dont go offering my farking carrots around BIATCH

landy_man wrote:dont go offering my farking carrots around BIATCH

U didnt touch them over 5 days they are mine to do with what i pls....

Tuff just remeber who tucked you in!!

All this talk of carrots and tucking me in sounds a little

TuffRR wrote:All this talk of carrots and tucking me in sounds a little

Yr the one who wispered 'I love you' while i tucked you in.....

mickrangie wrote:

TuffRR wrote:All this talk of carrots and tucking me in sounds a little

Yr the one who wispered 'I love you' while i tucked you in.....

BWHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

mickrangie wrote: Yr the one who wispered 'I love you' while i tucked you in.....

Sorry, was talking to my right hand - you must of overheard.

Remind me not to go bush with you guys ,all this talk about carrots and tucking in is g.h.e.y !

Loanrangie wrote:Remind me not to go bush with you guys ,all this talk about carrots and tucking in is g.h.e.y !

3/4 bottle of shivers and 1/2 bottle of jonny and i dont know how much port between C and G made for interesting night.......

mind you with no more Ty to cuddle up with and another kid on the way, i will need some luvving ! lets go camp ....ing.

you will have to cut the arches or raise body abit more(wether suspension or bl) mine still rub sometimes and i have had 3inch lift..

cutting the arches is good..quite easy..looks good to if you fit aftermarket flexi arches too..

leave the axles alone...you may also find if you move it forward that you will be needing a longer prop..you dont want that popping out at all!!!

10 - 15 mm probably wont have much effect of the steering geometry, the bushes should allow for this and will just wear a tad sooner.

I would still be either cutting the guards and fitting flares, or doing a BL to correct the problem.

The length of the driveshaft would not be a concern over such a small increase in wheelbase, I would imagine.