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Difference between rose joint & tie rod

Posted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 9:25 pm
by CB0569
Hi there all
i have the usual steering wheel wobbles.
Wheel bearings-GOOD
Swivel hub bearings-GOOD

NO MOVEMENT DETECTED ANYWHERE.

I've been told to change one of the tie rod ends with a ROSE JOINT.
How does this work any different as they both move etc etc?

Please help me understand.

Posted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:35 pm
by JeSTeROCK
What are the usual wobbles? when you hit a pot hole, down hill, going straight etc ?

are you running caster plates, drop arms or drop boxes ?

Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:04 am
by CB0569
I can be driving along then all of a sudden the whole vehicle shakes,the steering wheel shakes violently.I have to stop ,then when i get moving again it is gone.
This doesnt happen all the time and it does it with my both sets of tyres,so that rules out wheel balance.
I have castor plates.

Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:32 am
by shakes
rose joints may be illegal on road? and I cant understand how a TRE could induce the wobbles?

search the nissan section hi and lo dude.... not knowing the history of your car there's a thread about your problems at least once a week!

Simon

Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 10:02 am
by turps
panhard rod bushes or radius are bushes are they flogged out.

Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 3:13 pm
by JeSTeROCK
Do you have a return to centre dampner ?

Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:17 pm
by bru21
its a nissan gq/gu i am guessing.

often its a little of everything

1 check panard and drag are parallell
2 check castor is correct and adjust for lift
3 check for play in all bushes
4 i found tyre pressure to be the difference after i did everything and it still happened - i droped my tyre pressures and it has be 100% since. if you run big tyres they bounce big time. with 35's i ran 22 front 18 rear on road (petrol ute). I now run 20 front and back with 36x15.5 r15's and its still sweet even without a steering dampner. your car should drive 99.9% without a dampner don't use it to hide bad panhard/ castor. rember bigger tyres have greater surface area so 15psi is like 30 on a std tyre. cornering will always be a little vague with low pressure. its a trade off

lastly if it had cheese cutters it prob has tow in std. I think the wide wheel package came std with tow out so check with a specialist

cheers bru

Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 7:40 pm
by bru21
also to answer your question a rose joint is essentially a tie rod end in double shear rather than single shear like a TRE. so rather than having a captive bolt that forms the joint there is a ball with a hole right through the centre. A bolt can then be placed through it. they are not generally dust protected and wear / rattle etc but are often used in race equipment as they are captive and are contained when they fail rather than pop off like a tie rod. they are not really suitable for retro fitment to a gq etc as without a tapered bolt or a double shear pitman arm they will be more sloppy.

cheers bru

Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:41 pm
by CYRIL
Dude - Pretty sure a rose joint will not pass an engineers cert. Tie rod ends have a taper for a reason. It stops slop in the joint. If you go for a rose joint, you'll never be able to tighten the 2 pieces together properly.

rose

Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:51 pm
by Webbie
mate are all your wheel nuts tight and if you have mags or the like are the wheel nuts the right ones :?: :?: :roll: just an idea.

Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 11:16 pm
by Marius Safari
I'm from South Africa. Did a spring over axle conversion on my MQ Ute. Throw out the whole steering draglinks and all the TRE's. Fitted 4x Rosejoints. They improve articulation major! Also much stronger than TRE's . Cost me only 20 Oz dollars per Rose joint. Here in the RSA u can do what u like and drive on the highway.............ANYTHING GOES!!!! As long as the lights work, the tyres got grip 2mm deep and its licence is paid up for the year.........U r free to go!!!!


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Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 6:54 am
by zen
true...but you get shot at when someone wants your motor!!

Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 5:37 pm
by CB0569
TURPS- The Pandard rod and bushes are only 12 months old,and the radius arms just move when a pry bar is used.

JeSTeROCK- No i dont have a return to centre steering dampener,mine goes from the chassis to the steering arm

bru21- I run 31's on road @ about 32 psi and MUDDIES @ 40 psi on road and 18psi in the bush.it does it with all the pressures.

Webbie- I have 7" steelies and they have the standered wheel nuts.

Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 10:14 am
by John H
I have found that wear in the panhard bushes combined with a little too much castor is usually the prime cause (although any number of other things may contribute).
The panhard bushes may only be 12months old but I would still replace or check them - especially if they are urethene.

I think the rose joint idea may have related to replacing one of the panhard bushes to eliminate any slop (compared to rubber for eg). I saw this on a GQ that was in the current 4x4 Monthly mag (a silver one with simex tyres).
It sounded like a good idea to me and I was going to look into it for my Patrol. Not sure of the legalities but the panhard is not a steering component so it may be OK.
Any thoughts or ideas?