Page 1 of 1
GQ Brakes
Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 7:43 am
by MrMaxi
Went through the Ottaways over the long weekend, my car is auto and it was pretty slippery so I was taking it slow.
Anyway my brakes after about 10 mins didn't fade but pretty much had to stand on them to get it to pull up I use 2nd on steep declines etc.
I have all new disks and pads bendix 4x4 on all 4 corners, any ideas what i could do to prevent this next time, I'm just about to lift it and fit 33's and would like to avoid this next time.
Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 7:52 am
by mikmav
use 1st... why use 2nd with brakes when you can go 1st without brakes.
sorry I'm no help on why you had to stand on em though.
Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 7:52 am
by jessie928
change your brake fluid ( complete flush), and install the front disk stone guards from a late model GQ with the air scoop.
Old brake fluid gets hot to quick and looses effectiveness.
If your pads only have 1 slot , I woudl also cut a couple of extra grooves in your pads ( if you have not got slotted rotors) to help vent the gass between pad and disk at high temp.
Only cut them about half way down the pad though. ( hacksaw SLOWLY)
this will not be effective as slotted rotors, as slotted rotors vent the entire face of the pad.
Jes
Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 4:43 pm
by Tayls
yeah my brakes are crap as too... i put 35's on awhile back and coming down a big hill, it pulls up terrible.
done my brake fuild and everything, my front discs are wearing, so its time for a new pair.
Thinking about slotted rotors, how much are they worth and where can i get them from? also do they need special or different pads from normal pads?
cheers
Daniel
Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 4:56 pm
by cooki_monsta
if they are new brakes it sounds like you might have glased them, flush ur brake fluid (always good to do) then take ur pads out n sand them lightly (very lightly) with some 1200 paper to remove the surface glaze and you will get your feel back

then clean disc with brake cleaner and u shud b right as rain, non asbestos pads glaze over when hot easily btw when they are new
wooooo
Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 6:49 am
by xenith
mate i think once u go 35"s or bigger u should run bigger GU brakes mine is great

but means u need ot swap whole diff

Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 7:51 am
by GRINCH
lucas pads with slotted rottors. i wouldnt go with bendix again ive seen a few rotors with huge grooves from them.
Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 9:20 am
by jessie928
ebc GREEN

Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 11:53 am
by cooki_monsta
im goin with jessie on this, run ebc green stuff, they are awsome pads, also if u do alot of offroad work go for an aggressive slotted n x drilled disc, that will help vent the heat better but will rip thru pads quicker but will reduce brake fade

Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 12:27 pm
by canuck
Sorry about the hijack, but anybody have the front and rear EBC Green part numbers for the pads that would fit on a 1991 TD4.2? I went to the EBC web site but they only list pads for 1993 TD4.2 forward. I am hoping I can get them here in Canada. Cheers,
John
Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 12:49 pm
by cooki_monsta
ill get a part number for u during the week if no one has posted one by then

Re: wooooo
Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 1:29 pm
by turps
xenith wrote:mate i think once u go 35"s or bigger u should run bigger GU brakes mine is great

but means u need ot swap whole diff

It is possible to fit later model twin piston calipers to replace the single piston ones. Theres where available on the EFI models.
So if anyone plans on changing to new rotors, this is worth thinking about.
If it wasnt for the fact that I already have new slotted rotors in the shed. This is the way I would go.