Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I just thought you guys and girls might be interested in this so here it is.
91 cruiser with 217,000kms, factory turbo diesel and regular services (every 5000-10,000kms) with turbo timer.

I was comming back from sydney a few weeks ago and pulled in at a rest area in Aulbury for about 10 minutes.Motor turned off after a couple of minutes and nothing seemed out of the ordinary.

I started it up and went to re-join traffic and it felt as though i was dragging a bus or something, no power above about 1500 RPM with big flat spots, i noticed the little green turbo light was not on when it should have been and at this point relised the turbo had stopped working.

I honestly didnt know what to think as i was sure everything was in order and i had done nothing wrong or in neglect.
Somehow it let me drive it home to melbourne and i investigated it further.

No obstructions in air inlets or aircleaner, oil was fine, coolant was fine, i couldnt find anything wrong until i took off the air inlet elbow right infront of the turbo, it was here i found it completly siezed, no movement at all.
So, about 5-6 hours later it was out. (keep in mind this was spreed out over quite a few days).

What i found was this little bit of metal floating around in the exhaust turbine area as seen below.
http://www.esnips.com/doc/16f3c8db-cdd9 ... C00502.JPG



After about a week of ringing up places for rough quotes i took it to a place in baywater and the guy there very quickly identified where the little piece (and other little bits all different shapes an sizes) had come from.

It used to be a type of spacer which goes in between the 2 parts that make up the exhaust manifold and goes right at the end of the small one after the 2 rings.
http://www.esnips.com/doc/ecd54ceb-0286 ... C00498.JPG



So somehow mine came off and found its way through the manifold and made a nice mess inside the turbo, it broke blades/fins and took out gouges inside the housing.

Its going to cost me something like $1,200 to get it fixed. This includes all gaskets, new bearings/seals, ballancing, cleaning, testing (reco), honing and a new shaft with exhaust turbine wheel (due to damage).

Its a lotta money if you ask me but i want it done properly and back on the road. I mean sure, you could look around for a few weeks (maybee months) and try to find a second hand turbo but for piece of mind you would still want it reconditioned.

Anyway thats just my little story for anyone interested, i have more pics availible of the Removal if you want them or are thinking of undertaking a similar project.

I know it sounds like a lot of work but if you want to save yourself a potential $1,200 take out this evil little spacer ( if not allready removed ) before it causes you some serious damage.I dont mind being contacted if any of you want more info on this.

Im not bagging Toyota but its allmost like they put this spacer in the manifold just so it could eventually find its way through and, bingo, $2,800 for a new turbo thanks. Is it just me or is this a coincedence ?

OK, i will stop crapping on now.

It would be good to hear if anyone else has had this same problem to !

M8....thats bad luck....i would suggest you look around for a turbo on ebay. The ct26 came out in the 3 litre supra turbo, and it is a little larger all round inside, which means you could gain some power.
I also know of a guy in Melbourne selling a ct26 off your model; motor recod for 700...i will try and find his contact details. It has a larger front wheel aswell and he quoted 160kw bolt on.
So, what i suppose im saying is dont pay all that flash for new, as ppl remove good turbos to boost their rides....
Andrew

You could also look at buying a brand new Garrett CHRA (which is the centre section c/w wheels) it's a direct replacement, just bolt back on your housings. Around the same money IIRC.

dow50r wrote:M8....thats bad luck....i would suggest you look around for a turbo on ebay. The ct26 came out in the 3 litre supra turbo, and it is a little larger all round inside, which means you could gain some power.
I also know of a guy in Melbourne selling a ct26 off your model; motor recod for 700...i will try and find his contact details. It has a larger front wheel aswell and he quoted 160kw bolt on.
So, what i suppose im saying is dont pay all that flash for new, as ppl remove good turbos to boost their rides....
Andrew

G,day Andrew,
I looked and looked on ebay and sure i found plenty of turbos, even new ones at good prices but no gaurantee that it would fit or bolt up.
As im fairly new in the whole diesel turbo gig (3 months) im finding it takes a while to get the right advice from the right people and i just dont have the months to do all the required research.
At the end of the day, i want my rig back on the road !!
I briefly considered hi-flowing and biggerising stuff but i dont want to touch the pump and definatly do not want to loose any of that good o'l Toyota reliability.
My thinking was that if i got a second hand turbo (original CT26) i'd still want it reco'd just for piece of mind, cause i dont want to have to go through all this again !
Or i could just be fussy.
cheers.

hdj105 wrote:You could also look at buying a brand new Garrett CHRA (which is the centre section c/w wheels) it's a direct replacement, just bolt back on your housings. Around the same money IIRC.

G,day hdj105,

I think the shaft and wheels going back into mine are Garrett, from what i heard Toyota dont sell any parts for these turbos, although they will do a special price for a new one for $2800.

So was that $600 or $1200 for the CHRA ?

cheers.

i recon just look for an aftermarket turbo. These usually sell as a kit and can come in a kit to bolt up. i think garrett do a couple. can sometimes give you more power aswell.

hdj105 wrote:You could also look at buying a brand new Garrett CHRA (which is the centre section c/w wheels) it's a direct replacement, just bolt back on your housings. Around the same money IIRC.

Yes, garrett do sell a direct replacement... I wouldnt bother rebuilding a turbo...

I bought 1 in july, cost me $1330... but it is completly brand new, housing included.

udm wrote:

hdj105 wrote:You could also look at buying a brand new Garrett CHRA (which is the centre section c/w wheels) it's a direct replacement, just bolt back on your housings. Around the same money IIRC.

Yes, garrett do sell a direct replacement... I wouldnt bother rebuilding a turbo...

I bought 1 in july, cost me $1330... but it is completly brand new, housing included.

So udm, are you saying you bought a new turbo, ready to bolt on ( does it pick up all the factory fittings) ?
what turbo did you have on before this new one ?
have you noticed any advantages since changing ?
Does this Garrett turbo you speak of have a model number and/or someone in Melboure selling them ?
Just curious, you've got me thinking now!
cheers.

Professor of Nothing wrote:

udm wrote:

hdj105 wrote:You could also look at buying a brand new Garrett CHRA (which is the centre section c/w wheels) it's a direct replacement, just bolt back on your housings. Around the same money IIRC.

Yes, garrett do sell a direct replacement... I wouldnt bother rebuilding a turbo...

I bought 1 in july, cost me $1330... but it is completly brand new, housing included.

So udm, are you saying you bought a new turbo, ready to bolt on ( does it pick up all the factory fittings) ?
what turbo did you have on before this new one ?
have you noticed any advantages since changing ?
Does this Garrett turbo you speak of have a model number and/or someone in Melboure selling them ?
Just curious, you've got me thinking now!
cheers.

Contact either turbobygarrett.com or dencodiesel.com and tell them you need a chra for a standard hdj80... and yes, it is a direct replacement, all you need is new water and oil gaskets.

PS. www.ozsigns.com/aussie/fj80tohzj80/turbo/index.html

Ulises

Professor of Nothing wrote:

dow50r wrote:M8....thats bad luck....i would suggest you look around for a turbo on ebay. The ct26 came out in the 3 litre supra turbo, and it is a little larger all round inside, which means you could gain some power.
I also know of a guy in Melbourne selling a ct26 off your model; motor recod for 700...i will try and find his contact details. It has a larger front wheel aswell and he quoted 160kw bolt on.
So, what i suppose im saying is dont pay all that flash for new, as ppl remove good turbos to boost their rides....
Andrew

G,day Andrew,
I looked and looked on ebay and sure i found plenty of turbos, even new ones at good prices but no gaurantee that it would fit or bolt up.
As im fairly new in the whole diesel turbo gig (3 months) im finding it takes a while to get the right advice from the right people and i just dont have the months to do all the required research.
At the end of the day, i want my rig back on the road !!
I briefly considered hi-flowing and biggerising stuff but i dont want to touch the pump and definatly do not want to loose any of that good o'l Toyota reliability.
My thinking was that if i got a second hand turbo (original CT26) i'd still want it reco'd just for piece of mind, cause i dont want to have to go through all this again !
Or i could just be fussy.
cheers.

Im hearing you...the Garrett option that Greg mentioned earlier would then be your best option, as it improves aswell as being brand new bolt in and no balancing needed...

Gday again
Ive heard of these factory turbos throwing blades if they do overboost, ive heard of them snapping the shaft and motor oil fuels the motor till it runs out or blows up the motor because you cant shut it down....so although you are up for $1200, i would look on the bright side of things....you will have a new turbo to show for it, and no motor damage that usually follows blades falling off.
If any of the inlet compresser blades are missing, take off the inlet manifold to be sure to be sure, and inspect the inlet valves, looking for the bits....

Update:

I picked the reco'd turbo up on wednesday and am now in the process of putting stuff back together.
The guy at the turbo shop (and instructions included) said the oil lines to the turbo need to be bled prior to the motor being run.
It makes sense, from what i can figure out you remove the oil drain hose from piping exiting from turbo and crank motor until oil comes out, then reconnect(dissconnect glow plug fuses i guess so motor will not start)
And this allows oil to flow up the feed line without any resisting pressure from the oil drain hose.
Is this procedure required when you do oil changes as well?

Here is a link to some before shots:
http://www.esnips.com/web/itscrazy-turbo

And here are some more photos of the reco'd turbo which i must say so far im very impressed with:
http://www.esnips.com/web/CT26Rebuild

I just like taking photos.
More to come after i get a few more things fitted.

I hope to have it all running tomorrow arvo, wish me luck!

You pull the ignition fuse that wont allow the motor to fire...then crank away...i would not bother doing it too much, maybe 30 seconds and everything is pumped up....

dow50r wrote:You pull the ignition fuse that wont allow the motor to fire...then crank away...i would not bother doing it too much, maybe 30 seconds and everything is pumped up....

Well today was the big day, got everything all hooked back up and couldnt find a way to stop it starting (in relation to bleeding the oil lines to turbo). I started by removing feed wire that is connected to the glow plug power rail thing and it still started straight away.(even with no glow plugs?)
I did as you suggested "dow50r" just let it run for a few seconds until oil flowed out the drain pipe from turbo.
I took it for a quick 10 minute squirt around the block and everything is running great !
Thanks everyone for ideas and suggestions, muchly appreciated.

Now......what project next......