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2h starting probs any ideas? - IT'S ALIVE

Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 11:44 am
by juzzydykes75
Finally , turned out to be just glow plugs . thank god !!!!!!!!!!
shopped around for em through local parts suppliers and had a number of different quotes that i thought you guys might find interesting - the local toyota dealer quoted me on the bosch glow plugs that i had pulled out of it @ $47.95 each - i almost had a coranary when told me . then i went to the local parts shop and chatted with the guys there who were really helpful and took the time to try to source different brands for me and finally we settled on the standard bosch plugs same as the toyota parts dealer quoted me on for $ 18.00 each . usually they retail them for $22.00 each but he gave me trade discount even though i'm not in the trade .
got them home whacked them in and away she went first revolution .

IT PAYS TO SHOP AROUND . saving of $ 29.95 each total saving of $179.70 for 6

Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 11:56 am
by Vineboy
Get ready for pain

Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 3:11 pm
by Sixty
A compression test will give you an idea of what may be broke.

But doesnt sound healthy, or cheap.

Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 3:34 pm
by juzzydykes75
ok been pulling things off and puttin em back on all day and have narrowed it down to either in injector pump or glow plug wiring problem . i'm thinking that it may be injector pump as it's got a fairly new feed pump and i can get diesel to flow from the filter bleed by cranking it but not from the injector lines , ive disconnected them from the top of the injector pump and i get the slightest little dribble out of the valves . pulled the side plate off the injector pump and the pump springs etc are moving up and down freely and in order . can't assess any more at moment cause batteries are flat from cranking the bitch.

Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 3:41 pm
by Shadow
juzzydykes75 wrote:ok been pulling things off and puttin em back on all day and have narrowed it down to either in injector pump or glow plug wiring problem . i'm thinking that it may be injector pump as it's got a fairly new feed pump and i can get diesel to flow from the filter bleed by cranking it but not from the injector lines , ive disconnected them from the top of the injector pump and i get the slightest little dribble out of the valves . pulled the side plate off the injector pump and the pump springs etc are moving up and down freely and in order . can't assess any more at moment cause batteries are flat from cranking the bitch.
Injector pump doesnt actually push much fuel through each line, it does however push it at a very high pressure which is what fires the injectors. So the dribble you are seeing is probably correct.

Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 6:57 am
by dibbz
If it is a glow problem you should be able to start it with a can of aerostart.

Dunc.

Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 10:24 am
by midnight
Aerostart is good.

Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 10:39 am
by Ruffy
midnight wrote:Aerostart is good.
NO.. Aerostart is actually bad!

Glow plugs are easy to test. More likley for it to be a glow plug issue than an injector pump issue for sure..
If you know your glow plus are working the get a jumper lead and connect from bat positive to the top of one of the glow plugs for about 5 to 10 secs and try and start it then.

Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:27 pm
by Shadow
even without glowing it should still start, will juust run like a pig.

Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 1:02 pm
by ricky1970
A lot of older style diesels, expecially with a few k's on 'em, will refuse to start cold with no glow. Pull a glow plug and test it with jumper leads on a good battery to see if it heats up. If all is well, check wiring, solenoids, fuses, etc, etc.
If she is smokin' when you are crankin', you are gettin fuel to the cylinders, it just aint firing. Glow is the most obvious cause, but check compression as well if glow system is working ok.

Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 3:00 pm
by lay80n
Remove a glow plug and apply Battery + voltage from the positive terminal at the top, and earth the body of the plug. It should get real hot real quick (dont do this whilst holding the plug or resting it on anything that dont like lots of heat). This is most likley your problem. If you have 12 volts getting to the plugs from the wiring, and the plugs are no good, then new plugs are easy to source and fit.

Layto....

Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 3:10 pm
by Shadow
ricky1970 wrote:A lot of older style diesels, expecially with a few k's on 'em, will refuse to start cold with no glow. Pull a glow plug and test it with jumper leads on a good battery to see if it heats up. If all is well, check wiring, solenoids, fuses, etc, etc.
If she is smokin' when you are crankin', you are gettin fuel to the cylinders, it just aint firing. Glow is the most obvious cause, but check compression as well if glow system is working ok.
maybe its too cold in vic, but even in winter in brisbane my 2H would start without glowing it and it had 400thousand on the clock. it didnt like starting and ran real shit, but it did start. (every time sister borrowed it she didnt glow it, even though I told her 100 times, women O_O)

Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 4:04 pm
by lay80n
Have seen a older 2H that wouldnt start in NSW winter (Newcastle) without glowing first. Same wymptoms.

Layto....

Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 4:46 pm
by juzzydykes75
okay finally got her running , took about 5 mins of cranking but it finally fired to life and spluttered, coughed and blew a heap of smoke .
but it runs allright now .
i checked glow plug power and they are getting 12 volts to the tops of them and low and behold they areent getting hot . so it looks like thats my prob . off to get a new set tomoz and will let you all know how it goes.
thanks for the replies they really steered me in the right direction.

Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 4:49 pm
by ricky1970
Shadow wrote:
ricky1970 wrote:A lot of older style diesels, expecially with a few k's on 'em, will refuse to start cold with no glow. Pull a glow plug and test it with jumper leads on a good battery to see if it heats up. If all is well, check wiring, solenoids, fuses, etc, etc.
If she is smokin' when you are crankin', you are gettin fuel to the cylinders, it just aint firing. Glow is the most obvious cause, but check compression as well if glow system is working ok.
maybe its too cold in vic, but even in winter in brisbane my 2H would start without glowing it and it had 400thousand on the clock. it didnt like starting and ran real shit, but it did start. (every time sister borrowed it she didnt glow it, even though I told her 100 times, women O_O)
Last time i was in a Brissy winter, the heat nearly killed me, real shorts and singlet weather :cool:

Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 2:09 pm
by juzzydykes75
changed original message -

Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 3:49 pm
by +dj_hansen+
You can also check glow plugs by measuring the resistance between the to of the block, and the engine block... if u have very low resitance 0 - 2 ohms then they are cactus....

Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 3:55 pm
by Shadow
+dj_hansen+ wrote:You can also check glow plugs by measuring the resistance between the to of the block, and the engine block... if u have very low resitance 0 - 2 ohms then they are cactus....
its the other way isnt it. higher resitance = cactus.

Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:57 pm
by lay80n
Depends. A higher resistance will generate more heat, think about a wire with high resistance, it gets hot. But, open circut or no resistance will mean there is an internal fault, and the plugs will nto get hot.

Layto....

Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 5:44 pm
by Shadow
lay80n wrote:Depends. A higher resistance will generate more heat, think about a wire with high resistance, it gets hot. But, open circut or no resistance will mean there is an internal fault, and the plugs will nto get hot.

Layto....
other way around,
high resistance = low current = low heat.
low resistance = high current = high heat.

open circuit is very very high resistance. Short circuit is 0 resistance.