Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi i was just wondering if you guys could help me out?
I own an 83 model sierra with drums all round, and have recently put new brake pads all round as well as wheel cylinders in the front as two were seized, and it had a brake booster on it when i bought it but a mate of mine told me to turf i. And this is where my problems lie after doing all the afore mentioned things i cant get any pedal when i bleed them! i can push my foot to the floor! Can anyone help?

p.s. When we put the brake pads in we didnt get the drums machined! is that the source of the problem or is it something else?

why did you get rid of the brake booster? apart from that do you brakes still work satisfactorily. Ie would they lock up long before the pedal hits the floor or is there no pressure at all? If the drums are worn out your pedal wont be the greatest. otherwise are you bleeding them right? when you got rid of the brake booster did you bleed the master cylinder?

i was told that i didnt need the booster so we chucked it, my master cylinder dosent have a bleeder! well i dont think so anyway. the brakes will lock up about an inch from the floor. anyway we pulled the master cylinder out and will get a kit for it so will see what happen.
Cheers

An 83 zook would be a 1.o litre in stock form, and these did not have boosters. But if it has been modified to run the booster, then you probably do need it.
If want no booster, then fit a master designed not to use 1.
The firewalls are different 1.3 to 1.0 to allow booster to fit.
So you may have to run a 1.3 booster.
Really depends whats been done to it.
Every part of a brake system is designed to work with every other part. You can't just remove 1 part, I believe....
I hope your advice is coming from a brake expert.
christover

thanks christover, the master cylinder is the standrd 1.0 ltr and the brake booster was bodged into the engine bay, anyway we pulled the master cylinder out and have ordered a kit ($33.50) and that replaces all the spring seats, rubber grommits, etc.
P.S. Before we pulled the master cylinder out when you would drive along and put your foot on the floor only the front brakes would lock-up, so we thought that it might be the o-ring inside the plunger of the master cylinder which does the back brakes.
Thanks

Maybe try clamping off the soft line at the rear, if the pedal is then good, you know the problems at the rear brakes. (normally is)

If still trouble, try blocking off each then both of the front soft lines, if brake pedal comes good, problem is 1 or both fronts.

If pedal is still crud with all blocked, then master area is likely to be the problem.

It is easy to fit discs to front if you want.

The booster could have been plumbed wrongly, ie front only.

Kit thru the master is good idea anyway, even if its not the issue.

Rear self adjusting type brakes from narrow track 1.3's also fit easily (this is what I had before rear discs)
Use entire axle backing plate etc.
Rear brake shoes have many different types fitted to same model, and its common to get sold wrong types, worth a check.

If drums are over honed, it could be an issue?

christover

the drums might stuffed! do you know of any disc brake conversions for the front/back that are cheap i.e. you can get for bugger all dollars?

83zook wrote:the drums might stuffed! do you know of any disc brake conversions for the front/back that are cheap i.e. you can get for bugger all dollars?

front discs off 1.3 narrow track Sierra bolt on.
Think you just need the steering hub things..
(mine has 1.0litre 1 side, and 1.3 other)
I assume widetrack stuff would, too.

Theres nothing cheap for rear, unless you are good at making stuff.
But kits do exist.
Mine are Nissan Pintara rear discs with Sierra rotors and home made caliper brackets, and new lines on rear diff.
The parts were cheap enough from wrecker, but fabrication takes a lot of effort, I was lucky I got a clever mate to help out, but if paying it would be better to buy a kit.

christover