Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Picked up a 300,000k turbo diesel 60-series not long ago, and want to give it a service.

I'm looking for a professional place to do it, but also thinkign I might jsut give it a home service in the mean time, and get the pro one done next time round.

I'm guessing changing the oil, oil filter is essential. Maybe also the fuel filter, and give the cooling system a flush (just this time). Any other recommendations? I'm fairly mechanically minded, so most things are doable, but tools are limited to what would be found in a reasonable garage.

Also any good places to take toyota diesels in Adelaide?

Oil filter and oil change, maybe use a engine oil flush product, I find they work well.
Air filter and fuel filters is a must also.
Coolant change is always beneficial, again maybe use a flushing product or just use the hose.

I would also change the diff oils for sure, and possibly drop the gearbox and transfer case oils.
A small cost in oils can save you a lot later on. These oils are often overlooked by most owners.

When you get it done by a pro, have the brakes fluid changed also... almost never done in most vehicles.

Also check that your gearbox and transfer case have a connecting tube between them.

Andres wrote:Picked up a 300,000k turbo diesel 60-series not long ago, and want to give it a service.

I'm looking for a professional place to do it, but also thinkign I might jsut give it a home service in the mean time, and get the pro one done next time round.

I'm guessing changing the oil, oil filter is essential. Maybe also the fuel filter, and give the cooling system a flush (just this time). Any other recommendations? I'm fairly mechanically minded, so most things are doable, but tools are limited to what would be found in a reasonable garage.

Also any good places to take toyota diesels in Adelaide?

If you havent already got the toyota service manuals i would be happy to post you a copy on cd.

When you do the cooling system flush make sure you use the same treatment as used previously, or flush it really really well. To flush it really well just fill it dump it a few times, and then fill it, drive it a day, dump it, fill it, drive it a day, do this 3 times, and then fill with radiator treatment. Might sound excessive but I have seen the problems that occur when radiator treatments are mixed. Look for any leaks around the top tank of the radiator.

Grease all your grease nipples, TRE, propeller shafts. If you havent got a grease gun maybe leave this for when the mechanic services it, or invest in one. Molly grease is great in the uni joints and wont hurt the TRE's either. Castrol LXM i think.

Might also want to think about the diff gearbox and TC oils. Look for problems as you dump all the oils any metal water pieces of gasket etc in the oil. Whipe clean as much under the carm particularly engine gearbox, as you can, this will let you see any oil leaks alot easier the next time yoiu service it.

Power steering fluid should be RED, If its brown change it!@!!@#

Other things i would be doing if you havent already,

Check the oil cooler housing and lower+upper thermostat housing for any sign of corrosion coming through. The radiator bypass hose (short hose about 2 inches long, 1inch diametre) usually buldges up when the lower housingis about gone. The oil cooler housing often corrodes through right near the back of the motor or right near the front (usually due to poor cooling system maintenance, although i havent ever seen a oil cooler housing that hasnt coroded to some degree at these points). The oil cooler housing is located along the drivers side of the engine, runs almost the entire length of the engine, about 100mm tall, the oil filter hangs off it.

Check the wheel bearings, brake pads/linings, disc's for scoring. Look for brake fluid leaks in the rear brake cylinders, oil leaks at all 4 hubs.

RUST! Also do some really good inspecting for rust everywhere. Pull off the plastic strips at the bottom of the doors and have a look for rust in the drivers and passenger footwell, easy to fix now, pain to fix later. Check for rust in the rear quarters. Have a look along the roof gutters for rust, look at the side of the roof turret for any small pimple type spots of rust, these are indication of rust coming through from the inside. If you have any of these Iwould be dropping the roof lining around the doors (as the door edge trim thing should hold it back up) and spraying a good healthy spray of fisholeene or equivalent in there. There is a beam type thing that runs along the inside of the roof which creates a nice little spot for rust to start, it also makes a good spot for the fisholeen to penetrate really well. Under the bonnet pop out the large plastic caps on the firewall (near the top, near the wiper motor on one side) and have a look for leaf buildup and rust in there.

Check the harmonic balancer, make sure the nut on the front of it is tight (and not missing!) It needs to have locktite on the thread and if it has ever been off before chances are it didnt get locktight back on it.

I only have the 2H so cant give you any advice with regards to the turbo etc.

revin wrote:Also check that your gearbox and transfer case have a connecting tube between them.

only if it needs it, my HJ60 has done 420thousand and doesnt need this.

HotFourOk wrote:Oil filter and oil change, maybe use a engine oil flush product, I find they work well.
Air filter and fuel filters is a must also.
Coolant change is always beneficial, again maybe use a flushing product or just use the hose.

I would also change the diff oils for sure, and possibly drop the gearbox and transfer case oils.
A small cost in oils can save you a lot later on. These oils are often overlooked by most owners.

When you get it done by a pro, have the brakes fluid changed also... almost never done in most vehicles.

I would probably avoid using a cooling system flush as this is generally caustic. If you are having cooling problems it would be worth a shot, but otherwise just stick with water + rust inhibitor.

I also wouldnt recomend a oil flush as im told it gives more problems than it solves in the 2H with rear mains etc starting to leak because of it.

Shadow wrote:

revin wrote:Also check that your gearbox and transfer case have a connecting tube between them.

only if it needs it, my HJ60 has done 420thousand and doesnt need this.

Did my auto on the weekend and it made a pretty big difference. More power getting to the wheels, runs quiter, shifts much nicer. Took 17lt of transmission fluid and I changed the filter while I was at it (filters are only around $20).

Shadow wrote:

HotFourOk wrote:Oil filter and oil change, maybe use a engine oil flush product, I find they work well.
Air filter and fuel filters is a must also.
Coolant change is always beneficial, again maybe use a flushing product or just use the hose.

I would also change the diff oils for sure, and possibly drop the gearbox and transfer case oils.
A small cost in oils can save you a lot later on. These oils are often overlooked by most owners.

When you get it done by a pro, have the brakes fluid changed also... almost never done in most vehicles.

I would probably avoid using a cooling system flush as this is generally caustic. If you are having cooling problems it would be worth a shot, but otherwise just stick with water + rust inhibitor.

I also wouldnt recomend a oil flush as im told it gives more problems than it solves in the 2H with rear mains etc starting to leak because of it.

Probably because the gunk is blocking the leaks already

When I flushed my cooling system I used the flush and then filled with straight water. I dumped and refilled with water each day for a week. At the end of the week I dumped it again and filled with coolant and demin water. Got rid of all the crap
(You meant using normal water right? Not coolant each time? Would cost a fortune )

I'm just an additive freak... if there's an additive I'll try it

Most have worked well so far... bar one rust inhibitor I used in my radiator... It made the rubber seal on the overflow swell up. (The bottle said safe on all plastics and rubber , yeah right!) I should sue them for a new bottle!

Nev62 wrote:

Shadow wrote:

revin wrote:Also check that your gearbox and transfer case have a connecting tube between them.

only if it needs it, my HJ60 has done 420thousand and doesnt need this.

Did my auto on the weekend and it made a pretty big difference. More power getting to the wheels, runs quiter, shifts much nicer. Took 17lt of transmission fluid and I changed the filter while I was at it (filters are only around $20).

Did you mis-quote that? cause the tube revin is talking about is for manual transmission and is used to push the oil back into the gearbox that is leaking into the transfer case.

HotFourOk wrote:

Shadow wrote:

HotFourOk wrote:Oil filter and oil change, maybe use a engine oil flush product, I find they work well.
Air filter and fuel filters is a must also.
Coolant change is always beneficial, again maybe use a flushing product or just use the hose.

I would also change the diff oils for sure, and possibly drop the gearbox and transfer case oils.
A small cost in oils can save you a lot later on. These oils are often overlooked by most owners.

When you get it done by a pro, have the brakes fluid changed also... almost never done in most vehicles.

I would probably avoid using a cooling system flush as this is generally caustic. If you are having cooling problems it would be worth a shot, but otherwise just stick with water + rust inhibitor.

I also wouldnt recomend a oil flush as im told it gives more problems than it solves in the 2H with rear mains etc starting to leak because of it.

Probably because the gunk is blocking the leaks already

When I flushed my cooling system I used the flush and then filled with straight water. I dumped and refilled with water each day for a week. At the end of the week I dumped it again and filled with coolant and demin water. Got rid of all the crap
(You meant using normal water right? Not coolant each time? Would cost a fortune )

I'm just an additive freak... if there's an additive I'll try it

Most have worked well so far... bar one rust inhibitor I used in my radiator... It made the rubber seal on the overflow swell up. (The bottle said safe on all plastics and rubber , yeah right!) I should sue them for a new bottle!

yeh i meant plain water for the flushing, add rust inhibitor at the end.

Thanks for the swift replies fellas. Especially Shadow - that write up is outstanding, much appreciated.

I'll keep looking around for all the info and gather the gear/fluids etc over the week and try and tackle on the weekend. I've got the car and engine service manuals so that should help.

I've heard the engine oil flushes can be trouble some on high ks engines as it removes too much and highlights the wear. (I'm not prepared for reconditioning jsut yet!)

Shadow wrote:

Nev62 wrote:

Shadow wrote:

revin wrote:Also check that your gearbox and transfer case have a connecting tube between them.

only if it needs it, my HJ60 has done 420thousand and doesnt need this.

Did my auto on the weekend and it made a pretty big difference. More power getting to the wheels, runs quiter, shifts much nicer. Took 17lt of transmission fluid and I changed the filter while I was at it (filters are only around $20).

Did you mis-quote that? cause the tube revin is talking about is for manual transmission and is used to push the oil back into the gearbox that is leaking into the transfer case.

yeah stuffed up, was thinking auto for some reason Duh

Andres wrote: I've heard the engine oil flushes can be trouble some on high ks engines as it removes too much and highlights the wear. (I'm not prepared for reconditioning jsut yet!)

I just had my 2H rebuilt(420thousand) and the rebuilder I used said he gets alot of work from people flushing thier 2H and 12HT's.

Shadow wrote:

Andres wrote: I've heard the engine oil flushes can be trouble some on high ks engines as it removes too much and highlights the wear. (I'm not prepared for reconditioning jsut yet!)

I just had my 2H rebuilt(420thousand) and the rebuilder I used said he gets alot of work from people flushing thier 2H and 12HT's.

Some of the quality flushes recommend that you you don't use their product on older engines. Guess there is something in it then

I'm gonna avoid any chemical flush (cooling/oil systems) as they seem to add risk, and the car is fine as it is. So far have filled the cooling system with tap water and driven-->flushed, twice, will let it out and fill with deminerlised water and coolant concentrate today.

Chose Penrite HPR Diesel 15W50. It seemed liek a good choice as it a little thicker for the hot summer, but not 60, which seems to be gettin a bit thick. Has a SPI ratin of CH-4 too, which is apparently the highest. And all for $56 for 10L. Much cheaper than RX Super, but only a little more than the 15W40 GTX 2 / Valvoline etc.

Will change the fuel/oil filter too. Can you use the "Screwdriver through the can" method for looseing the fuel filter? Or are they different to oil filters?

Andres wrote:I'm gonna avoid any chemical flush (cooling/oil systems) as they seem to add risk, and the car is fine as it is. So far have filled the cooling system with tap water and driven-->flushed, twice, will let it out and fill with deminerlised water and coolant concentrate today.

Chose Penrite HPR Diesel 15W50. It seemed liek a good choice as it a little thicker for the hot summer, but not 60, which seems to be gettin a bit thick. Has a SPI ratin of CH-4 too, which is apparently the highest. And all for $56 for 10L. Much cheaper than RX Super, but only a little more than the 15W40 GTX 2 / Valvoline etc.

Will change the fuel/oil filter too. Can you use the "Screwdriver through the can" method for looseing the fuel filter? Or are they different to oil filters?

if you cant get it by hand, you should use a filter remover

but i have used a cold chisel on the filter lip in a pinch.

Has anyone used XADO? Did it work and is it worth the $195 odd?

Shadow wrote:I just had my 2H rebuilt(420thousand) and the rebuilder I used said he gets alot of work from people flushing thier 2H and 12HT's.

Sorry a bit off topic.. Do you mind telling me how much for the rebuild as I'm getting close with mine.
Andrew

Vineboy wrote:

Shadow wrote:I just had my 2H rebuilt(420thousand) and the rebuilder I used said he gets alot of work from people flushing thier 2H and 12HT's.

Sorry a bit off topic.. Do you mind telling me how much for the rebuild as I'm getting close with mine.
Andrew

cost me $3850 for a full rebuild, rebore new o/s pistons, crank grind+crack test, full reco head, reco denso injectors, all new bearings seals gaskets, little things like water pump etc. Cam was not ground but generally doesnt need to be apparently. Fitting was extra and I had a clutch isntalled too so cost me about $4600 including all parts oil filters fitting etc etc.

This was the cheapest quote I got and he does not operate from a state of the art workshop but after speaking with him I was happy that he new alot about 2H's and knew exactly what to do. He diagnosed my engine over the phone where all other people were like "oh could be anything, id have to see it/take head off.

Other quotes I got were as much as $6k + fitting and oil, most were closer to $4500/5000 +fitting etc.

Shadow wrote:

Vineboy wrote:

Shadow wrote:I just had my 2H rebuilt(420thousand) and the rebuilder I used said he gets alot of work from people flushing thier 2H and 12HT's.

Sorry a bit off topic.. Do you mind telling me how much for the rebuild as I'm getting close with mine.
Andrew

Other quotes I got were as much as $6k + fitting and oil, most were closer to $4500/5000 +fitting etc.

Did well. My quotes are about $5-6K.