Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys, i've started making a few control arms with sealed and grease able spherical bushes, ends are machined out of solid steel with a 45 OD 4mm wall tube. So no more stuffing about changing bushes. I'm also working on an A arm upgrade. So if anyone is interested let me know

Yea, i'm interested, Price? Pics?

cloughy wrote:Yea, i'm interested, Price? Pics?

Ditto

They're not available right now, but very soon. I'm making mine adjustable. I can make yours adjustable or solid. Can't do photo's as i don't have mine yet. They'll be zinc plated. Not sure on price yet, what do you reckon is fair?!

C.A.Moseley wrote:They're not available right now, but very soon. I'm making mine adjustable. I can make yours adjustable or solid. Can't do photo's as i don't have mine yet. They'll be zinc plated. Not sure on price yet, what do you reckon is fair?!

As little as possible , need an idea of costs assosciated in the manufacture of them and time, i'd be happy to guinea pig them for ya

what are you thinking of making for the A frame??

i'm about to start redoing all my suspension and start making all custom gear, but if someone else has a good thing going,at a good price, i'll have a go

The main thing with price is order numbers. The company machining up the ends has cnc gear so if i can get a run of ten pairs it will work out pretty cheap. I'll be doing all the welding, i'm a fabricator by trade. I'm just over trying to find good gear, so i thought i'd make some

So what are you thinking for the A frame??

Well i'm not in it for the money, however there maybe an included price of a few beers thats about it, so it should be real cheap. I have spoken to an engineer and he couldn't see a problem with them, especially after i told him of the rear steer of the stuffed bushes! A arm might be a bolt up four link with spherical joints.

mmmm, might stick with spacing the A frame to sit properly but some rear arms will be of interest, let me know a price and availability, along with a pic and i'm all yours

Does that work ok? I've seen alot of damage done by busting ball joints. I'd like to keep the a arm setup but i haven't really looked into it. I've got one way nearly sorted. I'll let you know how it goes.

REAL interested. Like to see photos. I'm interested in adjustable arms.

Ditto. Front and rear?

Will they have a report with them from the engineer?

Email over some drawings/pics?

I could include a report but it will cost a lot more. I'll look into it. Prob easier to get your whole setup passed when you finish

Are they similar to the scorpian racing ones?????????
which are about $700 a pair just for the rear...
I'm keen depending on price!!!!!

cheers Jeff

definitely interested

$700 mate thats a joke. How do they work that out. I can tell you this much, i will absolutely kill that price. I'm looking at around 400 or 500 max depending on how proper and legal i do it. But don't hold me to it.

I think scorpion uses rose joints? Rose joints are unsealed and not hardened. Greasebale ones are around 150 to 200, spherical joints are hardened and Sealed and greaseable and $20 to replace, and much easier to get passed for those reasons

I'll definatly be in for a set of adjustable ones!

it would defintly be worth sorting out engineering through the one bloke at an extra cost, as another engineer might not like the look of them etc and not knowing the product will charge $$$$

Simon

shakes wrote:I'll definatly be in for a set of adjustable ones!

it would defintly be worth sorting out engineering through the one bloke at an extra cost, as another engineer might not like the look of them etc and not knowing the product will charge $$$$

Simon

My thoughts exactly. Having to mod later to suit another engineer would suck. Will still have to have the conversion passed, but at least the unit will have been passed. Otherwise we would have to have each of our engineers test them.

We have a Supplier who is manufacturing arms for us. They are very heavy duty, adjustable, and made to suit 80# L/C lower control arm bushes at the diff end. They utilise the standard LandRover bushes at the chassis end, but being as the arms are bent to suit the lift (and then gussetted) the bushes are not stressed in the normal position.

I have a set in my 5" raised County and they work well. They also have a Seriel Number on each arm and an Engineers Certificate that is passed here in Queensland - and that's tough to get!!!. Price - about $450 per pair with-out bushes.

I have replaced the ball joint on the 'A' frame with a stronger, greasable, adjustable unit from Maxidrive. I had a machine shop mill up a block with the exact size holes for the shank bolts and raised the balljoint mounting position so that, in the normal position, the balljoint is in the middle of its stroke. Set up so that the balljoint is not reaching the end of its travel, it becomes far less stressed.

Good on CA Morsley for bringing some competition onto the market - I'd like to still see (good) bushes on the diff end though.

Peter K.

So all they Are is a set of bent arms? How much travel have you got? I'm guessing, with the five inch lift then you should be able to set up for eight inches each way. And you still run standard bushes.

Yeah - essentially a bent arm - longer than original to place the axle back in the right spot - adjustable - gussetted through the bend - takes 80# bushes (same OD as Nissan bush but larger ID for the larger L/R bolt - needs a sleeve on the inside of the 80# bush though) - standard L/R bushes in the chassis end but not stressed in the normal position.

The arms are very heavy duty with Qld DOT approval.

With the (larger than L/R) 80# bush (you could use the Nissan rear control arm bush and modify the mounting plates) and unstressed front bush, the travel is very good. I will have to post some pictures one day (when I work out how to do it) with the County on the 25 degree articulation ramp.

Peter K.

I found out the hard way that spherical joints don't have the amount of swivell needed to pull off big flex. What do you guys think of either a patrol bush at diff end and high mis-alignment joint in the front, or patrol bushes in both ends as they apparently flex real well

Cranked rear arms with Defender Wolf (army) 3 corner bushes are ample. Go one better and add 2 inch spacers between middle cross member and a-arm mounts.

or http://www.gigglepin4x4.net/arms/armsindex.htm

or http://www.devon4x4.com/shop.php?mode=p ... 7&subcat=6

And don't send any money to Scorpion Racing

JF

i don't see a problem with the chassis bush for the trailing arms. last time i put new ones in the defender i was able to cycle the arm 6 inches up and down, thats enough to fully extend a 12 inch shock. i do agree though the bush should sit in a neutral bind position. which means cranked arms.
i like hsv rangies trailing arms, simple and strong. someone can drag a picture up if they like.
david

Or use straight arms and LRA angled bushes:

if you have longer travel shocks the angle bush still binds. the arms look nice looks like they are sleeved or at least using the original diff end of the arm? who makes these???
david

modman wrote:if you have longer travel shocks the angle bush still binds.

Probably, but being slightly thicker, allows more movement than standard bushes with bent arms.

modman wrote:looks like they are sleeved or at least using the original diff end of the arm? who makes these???
david

Yep, original diff end of the old arms. Home made using 44mm solid bar.

Paul

if ya want max travel,put a spherical ball joint at the chassis.no bush bind.you could do this with or without rubber mounting it.it just depends on if you want to shock load your chassis or not.