Outer Limits 4x4 Board

My car seems to be getting to around 3/4 (tmp gauge) at lights and uphills at the moment, the fan seems ok, spins when started, hasn't seized. radiator and hoses, head, water pump all replaced 12 months ago, checked this morning whether the radiator was blocked seems ok. just dropped top and bottom hoses, no muck in there. Anything else i should check for ?

I also have thermo's that blow through, as soon as i switch them on it brings them temp down, but i shouldn't need to do that. It's an auto, petrol carby.

No oil in water, water in aoil or trans oil

Thermostat?

Temp gauge sender?

Cracked head?

Don't think it's a cracked head i did a pressure test on it, and idles fine, normally a cracked head would run like crap, might be onto something with the thermostat

im assuming its a GQ, id say the viscous hub is on the way out and the fan isnt spinning quick enough to draw enough air through the radiator. also are the fins clean ie not blocked with mud and dead mozzies. mine was doing similar, the fan looked like it was turning OK, i replaced the viscous hub and it never gets ove 1/4 on the gauge now.
given that you have said when you turn the thermos on it cools down, id say its almost definately a fan hub problem

Sorry for the hijack but what is the best method to really test the hub???

After driving at 100km/hr with a/c i can really hear the fan suckking once i slow down so i assume it works.

Jimbo wrote:Sorry for the hijack but what is the best method to really test the hub???

After driving at 100km/hr with a/c i can really hear the fan suckking once i slow down so i assume it works.

im not really sure. the new one that i put on mine didnt feel much different than the old one, but it solved my problem

testing the clutch fan, once the car is hot (after a drive) turn the engine off and see if you can turn the fan by hand, if you can its not working 100%. you can buy the silcone oil from your local toymotor dealer, 2 tubes will be enough, shouldn't cost more than $30.

rover1 wrote:testing the clutch fan, once the car is hot (after a drive) turn the engine off and see if you can turn the fan by hand, if you can its not working 100%. you can buy the silcone oil from your local toymotor dealer, 2 tubes will be enough, shouldn't cost more than $30.

could you explain the procedure for servicing the clutch, as my workshop manual says it is a non service item and must be replaced (of course it does) my wagon is doing the same, flushed and replaced coolant tonight, however can not bleed the air bubbles out, it is frothing like the head on a beer!!!!

Some fan clutch hubs are sealed units and cannot be serviced.

MrMaxi wrote:Don't think it's a cracked head i did a pressure test on it, and idles fine, normally a cracked head would run like crap, might be onto something with the thermostat

It won't necassarily run like crap depending on where the head is cracked. TB42 cylinder heads have little welsh plugs in the head and they generally crack around there. Check the condition of the oil under the oil filler cap for any signs of water contamination.

"Some fan clutch hubs are sealed units and cannot be serviced"

Yes the tb42 ones are sealed but u can drill a small hole in them and fill it up with silicon oil and then use a grub screw to seal it up.

Will be doing this on the w/e

Jimmy

Jimbo can you take some pics of this project and post em up ? I'd prefer to see how you stuff yours b4 i stuff mine hehehe

HAHHAAHAHA i wont be stuffing mine! My mate is going to show me how. he has done it on his last 3 tb42's so i'm hoping mine works too!!

I will see if i can get pics

mortaygo wrote:

rover1 wrote:testing the clutch fan, once the car is hot (after a drive) turn the engine off and see if you can turn the fan by hand, if you can its not working 100%. you can buy the silcone oil from your local toymotor dealer, 2 tubes will be enough, shouldn't cost more than $30.

could you explain the procedure for servicing the clutch, as my workshop manual says it is a non service item and must be replaced (of course it does) my wagon is doing the same, flushed and replaced coolant tonight, however can not bleed the air bubbles out, it is frothing like the head on a beer!!!!

matye looks like you need a head job

frothing is no good on a tb42
Jes

jessie928 wrote:

mortaygo wrote:

rover1 wrote:testing the clutch fan, once the car is hot (after a drive) turn the engine off and see if you can turn the fan by hand, if you can its not working 100%. you can buy the silcone oil from your local toymotor dealer, 2 tubes will be enough, shouldn't cost more than $30.

could you explain the procedure for servicing the clutch, as my workshop manual says it is a non service item and must be replaced (of course it does) my wagon is doing the same, flushed and replaced coolant tonight, however can not bleed the air bubbles out, it is frothing like the head on a beer!!!!

matye looks like you need a head job

frothing is no good on a tb42
Jes

Fantastic!!!!!!! anyone want to buy a cheap Patrol!!!!!!!!!!! two second hand cars in two years and both need a head job after the first month of ownership!!!!! should be knee capping the previous owener of both!

Jimbo wrote:HAHHAAHAHA i wont be stuffing mine! My mate is going to show me how. he has done it on his last 3 tb42's so i'm hoping mine works too!!

I will see if i can get pics

jimbo, pics would be good as i would like to know for the future.

mortaygo wrote:

jessie928 wrote:

mortaygo wrote:

rover1 wrote:testing the clutch fan, once the car is hot (after a drive) turn the engine off and see if you can turn the fan by hand, if you can its not working 100%. you can buy the silcone oil from your local toymotor dealer, 2 tubes will be enough, shouldn't cost more than $30.

could you explain the procedure for servicing the clutch, as my workshop manual says it is a non service item and must be replaced (of course it does) my wagon is doing the same, flushed and replaced coolant tonight, however can not bleed the air bubbles out, it is frothing like the head on a beer!!!!

matye looks like you need a head job

frothing is no good on a tb42
Jes

Fantastic!!!!!!! anyone want to buy a cheap Patrol!!!!!!!!!!! two second hand cars in two years and both need a head job after the first month of ownership!!!!! should be knee capping the previous owener of both!

Or looking closer before you buy them.

Layto....

lay80n wrote:

mortaygo wrote:

jessie928 wrote:

mortaygo wrote:

rover1 wrote:testing the clutch fan, once the car is hot (after a drive) turn the engine off and see if you can turn the fan by hand, if you can its not working 100%. you can buy the silcone oil from your local toymotor dealer, 2 tubes will be enough, shouldn't cost more than $30.

could you explain the procedure for servicing the clutch, as my workshop manual says it is a non service item and must be replaced (of course it does) my wagon is doing the same, flushed and replaced coolant tonight, however can not bleed the air bubbles out, it is frothing like the head on a beer!!!!

matye looks like you need a head job



frothing is no good on a tb42
Jes

Fantastic!!!!!!! anyone want to buy a cheap Patrol!!!!!!!!!!! two second hand cars in two years and both need a head job after the first month of ownership!!!!! should be knee capping the previous owener of both!

Or looking closer before you buy them.

Layto....

thanks for your support!!!!! hopefully I might met less Chemi Weld fans!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

TD42 easily serviced. Just needs to be pulled off spilt the 2 halves and replace oil.
TB42, need a hole drilled. Then some how get the oil in there. Thats what I am doing for mine as it gets to just over 3/4 where as before it sat on 1/2 with out moving.

As for bleeding the air out of a tb42.park it somewhere nose up. And let it warm up with the cap off. then keep toping up. They can be a prick to bleed and may take a couple of times. Mine did now it blows no bubbles. Just gets warm cos the fan is buggered.

turps wrote:TD42 easily serviced. Just needs to be pulled off spilt the 2 halves and replace oil.
TB42, need a hole drilled. Then some how get the oil in there. Thats what I am doing for mine as it gets to just over 3/4 where as before it sat on 1/2 with out moving.

As for bleeding the air out of a tb42.park it somewhere nose up. And let it warm up with the cap off. then keep toping up. They can be a prick to bleed and may take a couple of times. Mine did now it blows no bubbles. Just gets warm cos the fan is buggered.

Thanks for your help, I will try parking my truck nose up the hill and try again, I have ordered a new fan clutch. I have spoken to a few radiator places today and they stated the frothing is common when two coolants react, I will try as you suggested and replace the fan. my truck never gets much over 1/3 on the guage unless it is working hard in the sand or a long climb up a hill. Again the Radiator place said, sounds like your clutch fan! Hope this means good news, still I am going to get the Raditor flushed and replace the fan clutch just for safety sake

turps wrote:TD42 easily serviced. Just needs to be pulled off spilt the 2 halves and replace oil.
TB42, need a hole drilled. Then some how get the oil in there. Thats what I am doing for mine as it gets to just over 3/4 where as before it sat on 1/2 with out moving.

As for bleeding the air out of a tb42.park it somewhere nose up. And let it warm up with the cap off. then keep toping up. They can be a prick to bleed and may take a couple of times. Mine did now it blows no bubbles. Just gets warm cos the fan is buggered.

thanks Turps great advice, I bleed the system using your advice and it worked a treat, I also went and got my block pressure tested, with no negitive result! I have ordered a new fan clutch assembly so sounds like things are looking cool!! excuse the pun

Do you mind if I ask, what did the new fan clutch assembly cost you?
And this was for a GQ wasn't it?

Cause I'm thinking to do the same for mine just for the heck of it.
Only reason I haven't already done it, is I already THOUGHT it had been done.

It was supposed to have been done in the original $2K complete cooling system overhaul, which has since proven to have been as dodgy as hell, but due to being a work colleague from another area, with nothing in writing, and no receipts, etc etc. Bugger all I can do about it except cop it as a lesson to not deal with ex-mechanics working from their backyard.

I still want to do it anyway, even though I haven't actually had a cooling issue since the engine rebuilder redid the rebuild properly the second time, but then I haven't really stressed the car much either, just driven it around town. Today will be the clincher when I have to conquer some hills on a trip to our 4wd Club Christmas party.

I replaced my Mav's hub about 2 years ago after it started to wobble about on its rooted bearings. I was quoted some rediculous price by Nissan,($400.00) then went to Bursons and got one for the third of the price. People warned me that it wouldn't last but it is still going strong.

I questioned about going really cheap but Bursons advised me that they are a quality unit. The quality is very good and don't know why Nissan charge that much for something that probably comes from the same factory.


( because they can???)

RoadNazi wrote:I replaced my Mav's hub about 2 years ago after it started to wobble about on its rooted bearings. I was quoted some rediculous price by Nissan,($400.00) then went to Bursons and got one for the third of the price. People warned me that it wouldn't last but it is still going strong.
I questioned about going really cheap but Bursons advised me that they are a quality unit. The quality is very good and don't know why Nissan charge that much for something that probably comes from the same factory.
( because they can???)

I did the same RN and just bought the cheapy version, at the time no TB42e ones were available anywhere so I just got one to suit the RB30 which is the same bolt pattern as the TD42 and made a spacer to suit the TB42e fan.
I initially thought it was coming on a little late (probably just the mind playing tricks) so I put in some of the Yota silicon fluid and it's working perfectly.
At least the aftermarket ones can be unbolted not like the original TB42's.
Regards Andrew.

Ok people i fixed my heating problems 100% on the w/e.

Previously my GQ 4.2efi would start to go above 1/2 when the outside temp was over around 28 degrees or while going up a long hill. Thermostat is fairly new, rad is clean and water pump is also new. The clutch fan did sound like it was working so i had no idea what to do.

Anyway i went to Toyota and bought some silicon oil, pulled the hub off, drilled 2 holes (1 hole allows air to escape while filling) filled it up with just over a tube (it could have taken more but i ran out) and plugged the holes with 2 screws and some thread tape.

Anyway started it up and it sounded the same......drove for a while to warm it up and then took it on the freeway.

Well it was 40+ on sunday, sittiting on 100km/hr with a/c on high and..........................the guage didn't even hit half!!!!!!!

Normally above 30 degrees and 100km/hr the guage would get over half and with a/c or a bit of a hill reach around 2/3.

Even at 100km/hr i could hear the fan howling.....i thought shit, maybe it is now locked all the time, but after i got off the freeway and it cooled down a bit the fan cut out as normal. Also this morning (20 defrees) the fan never really cut in enough to be heard but the guage stayed at around 1/4.

I also noticed yesterday that while the gq was just sitting and idleing with a/c on the guage just sat at 1/4 (in 42 degrees). Normally the temp would be on around half and the thermo fan would kick in!!

So if anyone has similar overheating problems or their gq just runs a little hotter than u like (after checking thermostat and rad) i would give this a go rather than spend the big $$$ on an original fan. You dont ahve much to lose and plenty to gain.

I always thought that the engine fan or any thermo fan is useless over say 80km/hr thats why i never suspected it to be the problem....but after being told by a mate to give it a try i can say it worked for me!!!

If any1 can post pics (only have 2) for me i can email them to u.

Cheers

jimmy

Yeah, I was also wondering about the 'frothy' coolant when I bled my 88' Mav TB42 the other day.
The coolant didnt take long to warm up, and once warmed up the fan was easily turned by hand.
Yet it idles fine, got a smidgen above half way on the temp guage on sunday (37 in melbourne) at 100km/h with A/C on
Sounds like the fan hub needs some attention.
No milky oil and no oil in coolant