Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Its Here....project brain storming session
Road Ranger
Its Here....project brain storming session
Well Wayne and I picked up the zook on Monday, and the GQ diffs are waiting as is the V6 commo and auto. We need an LT230 transfer soonish as well as an adaptor, but first things first, we will start the strip down of the zook.
PICS
Its a 1ltr, and diffs, transfer, engine, gearbox, wheels and tyres etc will be out soon, so if you need any bits and peices drop me a PM
Had a drive od CAP51Z's zook the other day, and am thinking a wheel base near 98" would be good
looking forward to this little project
PICS
Its a 1ltr, and diffs, transfer, engine, gearbox, wheels and tyres etc will be out soon, so if you need any bits and peices drop me a PM
Had a drive od CAP51Z's zook the other day, and am thinking a wheel base near 98" would be good
looking forward to this little project
Last edited by Tiny on Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
Road Ranger
apparently the previous owners were shooters, there is a hole in the roof for a spotlight, and both the rear veiw mirrors have being converted to very crude rest point for shooting from. I presume the bar on the rear was something to do with this, or possibly a rack to hang game on after shooting?Mud_Muncher wrote:WTF is the bar on the wheel carrier for?
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
Road Ranger
Road Ranger
did some measurments, to get the wheel base I want, I reckon I will need to extend the chassis by about 12", might make the cab into a space cab open back thing with a tube tray, with room to fit a fridge, stove etc and make a rack to fit a couple of swags on the roof. as much as this is going to be a comp rig, it needs to be ok for weekend trips as well, with the v6 it will need a decent fuel tank, and will need to have the radiator mounted at the rear so it may be difficult to triangulate the reart coil overs as much as I would have liked to
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
vl (?) commodore donk in a zook with auto has been done.. Pat's zook: Otis in 4wd monthly
he bought the commodore for 900 bucks complete and got it all engineered.. would be awesome.. oh and he put hilux diffs under his.
he bought the commodore for 900 bucks complete and got it all engineered.. would be awesome.. oh and he put hilux diffs under his.
2" Susp lift, Ext shackles, RTC damper; Offsets, Custom interior panels, Stereo (+Sub), rubber Checkerplate floor, Custom Centre console, Under bonnet storage
Soon: Aircon + tinting?
Soon: Aircon + tinting?
Road Ranger
3.8, not sure if it is vn or vp, wayne has the commo, have to check with him, but the engine is ready to go.4wdnut wrote:Otis is running a 3.8L Holden Commodore VP engine i'm pretty sure.
is it a 3.8L or the RB30 3.0L engine you are putting in Tiny?
going the GQ diffs coz I have a pair of locked ones sitting thee I was going to use in a buggy
commos have being done, apparently pretty easy, but the radiator doen need to be moved to the rear, with the transfer and auto, it will need a custon trans tunnell as I want minimal body lift
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
vn series two and vp are the same vn series 1 is not worth pissing on drama's galore thermostat at rear of motor different bellhousing on manuals over heating crap crap crap but autos to suit are turbo 700 and are vacume controlled same as turbo 400 easy to to servise and shift kit but with electric overdrive in them witch can be used by a simple switch allowing you to use a manual commputer for more control with ajustable cable kick down . un like the vr, same motor minus coil packs and altanater but full elec auto but you can hold the gear you want at any time , the vs different motor eccotec (over rated) had similar box not interchangable though, with computer, had a safty built into box/COMPUTER so as not to hold gears and cant change down early it wont let you
hope this helps somone
trival crap for the night. good night. ZZZ ZZZ ZZZ ZZZ
hope this helps somone
trival crap for the night. good night. ZZZ ZZZ ZZZ ZZZ
GU Twin cab TD42T compound turbos
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
Road Ranger
and crank angle sensor on s1??bazooked wrote:ya need the series 2 motor, the series 1 have oil pressure issues.
i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it
I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
yeah i forgot about that 1 aswell, i bought myself a vr last week to...Tiny wrote:and crank angle sensor on s1??bazooked wrote:ya need the series 2 motor, the series 1 have oil pressure issues.
i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it
I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself
buggy time............
Road Ranger
I think the crank angle sensor was up to s3 or maybe even VR and s1 had issyes with the oil slapping up onto the big end or something, I should dig out some of the v6 woes threads from the likes of Ruff and Wendlebazooked wrote:yeah i forgot about that 1 aswell, i bought myself a vr last week to...Tiny wrote:and crank angle sensor on s1??bazooked wrote:ya need the series 2 motor, the series 1 have oil pressure issues.
i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it
I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself
I am hoping the bits we sell will buy the transfer, which leaves toooob and other bits and peices for the suspension set up to buy so all in all we want this to be a pretty budget project.
I want to make some cheap coil overs with say a procomp 14" traval shock into a sleave so it is fully replacable, but - the cost of an emulsion shock, more as a product test than anything else.
suspension triangulated 4 link with removable panhard and 3 link front with panhard is the choice at this stage. all with nissan slotted bushes.
the rear locker is factory vacuum, the actuator is dmages, so wayne who is a bit of an expert with conmtrol systems reckons a replacment air actuated system should be pretty easy
Wayne knows a bloke who owns a panel shop, we should have a gun paint job to scratch as well, will be green maybe BRG green and it will b e the AB UGGY so bring on project ABUGGY
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
Why put a panhard rod on a tri-4 link. Tri 4-links move in a vert plane only, putting a panhard rod on it will force it to also move laterally. ???Tiny wrote:I think the crank angle sensor was up to s3 or maybe even VR and s1 had issyes with the oil slapping up onto the big end or something, I should dig out some of the v6 woes threads from the likes of Ruff and Wendlebazooked wrote:yeah i forgot about that 1 aswell, i bought myself a vr last week to...Tiny wrote:and crank angle sensor on s1??bazooked wrote:ya need the series 2 motor, the series 1 have oil pressure issues.
i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it
I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself
I am hoping the bits we sell will buy the transfer, which leaves toooob and other bits and peices for the suspension set up to buy so all in all we want this to be a pretty budget project.
I want to make some cheap coil overs with say a procomp 14" traval shock into a sleave so it is fully replacable, but - the cost of an emulsion shock, more as a product test than anything else.
suspension triangulated 4 link with removable panhard and 3 link front with panhard is the choice at this stage. all with nissan slotted bushes.
the rear locker is factory vacuum, the actuator is dmages, so wayne who is a bit of an expert with conmtrol systems reckons a replacment air actuated system should be pretty easy
Wayne knows a bloke who owns a panel shop, we should have a gun paint job to scratch as well, will be green maybe BRG green and it will b e the AB UGGY so bring on project ABUGGY
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Road Ranger
for rego, easily removable, will talk to the engineer, but if this will make it easier then why the hell not at the end of the day if we put the effort in to get its onroad maners good, then maybe some other things like v6 and GQ diffs will not be such a problem?lay80n wrote:Why put a panhard rod on a tri-4 link. Tri 4-links move in a vert plane only, putting a panhard rod on it will force it to also move laterally. ???Tiny wrote:I think the crank angle sensor was up to s3 or maybe even VR and s1 had issyes with the oil slapping up onto the big end or something, I should dig out some of the v6 woes threads from the likes of Ruff and Wendlebazooked wrote:yeah i forgot about that 1 aswell, i bought myself a vr last week to...Tiny wrote:and crank angle sensor on s1??bazooked wrote:ya need the series 2 motor, the series 1 have oil pressure issues.
i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it
I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself
I am hoping the bits we sell will buy the transfer, which leaves toooob and other bits and peices for the suspension set up to buy so all in all we want this to be a pretty budget project.
I want to make some cheap coil overs with say a procomp 14" traval shock into a sleave so it is fully replacable, but - the cost of an emulsion shock, more as a product test than anything else.
suspension triangulated 4 link with removable panhard and 3 link front with panhard is the choice at this stage. all with nissan slotted bushes.
the rear locker is factory vacuum, the actuator is dmages, so wayne who is a bit of an expert with conmtrol systems reckons a replacment air actuated system should be pretty easy
Wayne knows a bloke who owns a panel shop, we should have a gun paint job to scratch as well, will be green maybe BRG green and it will b e the AB UGGY so bring on project ABUGGY
Layto....
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
I know you said that you are using GQ diffs because you have them but they are going to chew a lot of unnessery power in a suzuki unless you plan on running 44 inch tyres that will never be on road. what diff ratio are you going to run and what type and how many transfer cases are you planning?
GU Twin cab TD42T compound turbos
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
Road Ranger
i dont see the power being an issue given the V6, strenght of the front e nd for digs is a huge benifit, one transfer lt230 rations will be 4.88s on 37s with the possabuility of bigger tyres later, will see about what reduction may be need later, but the auto is benaficial gearing wiseoffroader-rama wrote:I know you said that you are using GQ diffs because you have them but they are going to chew a lot of unnessery power in a suzuki unless you plan on running 44 inch tyres that will never be on road. what diff ratio are you going to run and what type and how many transfer cases are you planning?
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
and you are going to have that legal on the road with 37's who is the engineer because all i want is 31's on hilux diffs with coils and discovery a frame and if he'll apove that then id have no problem . But i am have lots of problems finding an engineer no one will touch it
GU Twin cab TD42T compound turbos
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
Road Ranger
i will see what tyres will be engineered, but I doubt 37s will, and definatly not the bias ply onesoffroader-rama wrote:and you are going to have that legal on the road with 37's who is the engineer because all i want is 31's on hilux diffs with coils and discovery a frame and if he'll apove that then id have no problem . But i am have lots of problems finding an engineer no one will touch it
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
if the engineer has any clue he wont let u put a panhard on a tri 4 linkTiny wrote:for rego, easily removable, will talk to the engineer, but if this will make it easier then why the hell not at the end of the day if we put the effort in to get its onroad maners good, then maybe some other things like v6 and GQ diffs will not be such a problem?lay80n wrote:Why put a panhard rod on a tri-4 link. Tri 4-links move in a vert plane only, putting a panhard rod on it will force it to also move laterally. ???Tiny wrote:I think the crank angle sensor was up to s3 or maybe even VR and s1 had issyes with the oil slapping up onto the big end or something, I should dig out some of the v6 woes threads from the likes of Ruff and Wendlebazooked wrote:yeah i forgot about that 1 aswell, i bought myself a vr last week to...Tiny wrote: and crank angle sensor on s1??
i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it
I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself
I am hoping the bits we sell will buy the transfer, which leaves toooob and other bits and peices for the suspension set up to buy so all in all we want this to be a pretty budget project.
I want to make some cheap coil overs with say a procomp 14" traval shock into a sleave so it is fully replacable, but - the cost of an emulsion shock, more as a product test than anything else.
suspension triangulated 4 link with removable panhard and 3 link front with panhard is the choice at this stage. all with nissan slotted bushes.
the rear locker is factory vacuum, the actuator is dmages, so wayne who is a bit of an expert with conmtrol systems reckons a replacment air actuated system should be pretty easy
Wayne knows a bloke who owns a panel shop, we should have a gun paint job to scratch as well, will be green maybe BRG green and it will b e the AB UGGY so bring on project ABUGGY
Layto....
have u actually talked to an engineer?
Tiny wrote:did some measurments, to get the wheel base I want, I reckon I will need to extend the chassis by about 12", and will need to have the radiator mounted at the rear so it may be difficult to triangulate the reart coil overs as much as I would have liked to
why are u extending the chassis?
how much are u planning to lay over ur coilovers
Road Ranger
well based on tyres not going past front for rear, and with a wheel base of 80 stock and 37s on it, front moving forward bout 3-4" a 12' extension seems about right, but it is hard to tell without cutting the back off and laying everything down and under itredzook wrote:Tiny wrote:did some measurments, to get the wheel base I want, I reckon I will need to extend the chassis by about 12", and will need to have the radiator mounted at the rear so it may be difficult to triangulate the reart coil overs as much as I would have liked to
why are u extending the chassis?
how much are u planning to lay over ur coilovers
all plans at this stage are open, and based on looking and thinking, not fitting and trying
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
Tiny wrote:for rego, easily removable, will talk to the engineer, but if this will make it easier then why the hell not at the end of the day if we put the effort in to get its onroad maners good, then maybe some other things like v6 and GQ diffs will not be such a problem?lay80n wrote:Why put a panhard rod on a tri-4 link. Tri 4-links move in a vert plane only, putting a panhard rod on it will force it to also move laterally. ???Tiny wrote:I think the crank angle sensor was up to s3 or maybe even VR and s1 had issyes with the oil slapping up onto the big end or something, I should dig out some of the v6 woes threads from the likes of Ruff and Wendlebazooked wrote:yeah i forgot about that 1 aswell, i bought myself a vr last week to...Tiny wrote: and crank angle sensor on s1??
i will check up on it, but its neither here nor there, the car is sitting there and we are not going to get another one for the hell of it
I am looking forward to the air actuated cutting brakes myself
I am hoping the bits we sell will buy the transfer, which leaves toooob and other bits and peices for the suspension set up to buy so all in all we want this to be a pretty budget project.
I want to make some cheap coil overs with say a procomp 14" traval shock into a sleave so it is fully replacable, but - the cost of an emulsion shock, more as a product test than anything else.
suspension triangulated 4 link with removable panhard and 3 link front with panhard is the choice at this stage. all with nissan slotted bushes.
the rear locker is factory vacuum, the actuator is dmages, so wayne who is a bit of an expert with conmtrol systems reckons a replacment air actuated system should be pretty easy
Wayne knows a bloke who owns a panel shop, we should have a gun paint job to scratch as well, will be green maybe BRG green and it will b e the AB UGGY so bring on project ABUGGY
Layto....
The road manners will suck arse. Trying to make a suspensions system move in a plane it shouldnt move in is generally not a good idea Whats wrong with a tri-4 link on the road anyway??
Layto....
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Road Ranger
prolly right, I suppose nothing, and engineeer should be happy provided the links are bushed not hiemslay80n wrote:
The road manners will suck arse. Trying to make a suspensions system move in a plane it shouldnt move in is generally not a good idea Whats wrong with a tri-4 link on the road anyway??
Layto....
Layto....
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 63 guests