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lsd rear diff GQ
Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:12 pm
by Bruzar
ok i did what everybody said, i drained the oil put 300ml of oil flush in, ive been driving around for 1,500 kms now and doing all the figure 8 stuff, every now and again, the LSD still isnt kicking in at all, im sure its LSD its a 93 SWB ST electric windows and all the bull..... the rear diff looks like it has a sticker but their is alot of dirt on it.
Now, im thinking im going to have to get it rebuilt, as money is a problem at the movent and i can't afford air locker?
How much for LSD rebuild?
Should i rebuild or wait for locker?
Does not have LSD working affect car?
Does not having LSD affect you when driving on beach/sand or is good just on rocks?
Thanks for help im advance!!!
IM just want my machine to be a machine??
go the locker
Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:26 pm
by Nelso
LSD's wear as they get old and can be adjusted tighter, but even a good one is useless as soon as a rear wheel comes off the ground. I wouldn't touch it, and try to get the locker faster........ but I'm a bit lazy that way. At least driving it without the locker while you save up will help you to improve your driving as you'll have to pick better lines.
Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:41 pm
by CB0569
What grade of oil do you have in it??
Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 7:23 pm
by Bruzar
i have reccomended oil, when i drain it next i will put ls 140
Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 8:06 pm
by Beastmavster
LSD is mainly for offroad use in that application, since the onroad power-out-of-a-corner capabilities of a Patrol suck a$$ anyway.
The factory LSD is a damn good thing and can be rebuilt or a second hand one can be scored pretty cheap. Usually they still work pretty good after hundreds of thousands of KM's.
But, they will never be a locker if that matters to you.
Personally on a Patrol I'd always say front locker first then worry about replacing the LSD. In your case that may change.
I'd get someone at a diff shop to have a look at it....
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 10:14 am
by GRINCH
unless a previous owner has blown the lsd and replaced it with an open centre
lsd
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 11:37 am
by gqtrol
i just had my rear diff rebuilt pinnion bearings clutch packed tightened new yoke seals the works im from melbourne and vic diffs in mitcham did it for me at very good price total was $430 but i did remove the centre my self which would have saved a couple of bucks in labour if your from melbourne here is there number 98745268
oil
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:59 pm
by embryo
oil is the key, i know you said that you are running the recomended oil but they dont run standard LSD oil. the castrol book at work recomends a lot thicker oil. ive got standard LSD oil in mine and it doesnt work, i know full well that it was a tight limo befor i changed the oil. just got to put the right stuff back in it.
if it is rooted and a locker is on the cards then wait, there is no point in paying twice for a diff rebuild.
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 9:29 pm
by Beastmavster
According to my manual the LSD happily copes with LS140 so a heavier oil is a safe bet.... much heavier than the standard LS80W90
Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 1:58 pm
by mnpalmer
Personally I found the rear LSD to tight for on road driving. With anything but highway tyres on it, it would wildly oversteer when accelerating out of corners in the wet. I had an air locker installed and perfect! You just get a bit of inside wheel spinning, but is much safer than before.
Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 7:48 pm
by embryo
Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 3:05 am
by aawen4x4
Now that you've done the driving around, you've gotta drain all the goopout and put in fresh oil of the correct grade! LS140 should work, but your LSD won't start to work properly until you've done that oil change!! The oil and oil flush mix that you've got in there now will be slippery as and not very conducive to anything except keeping the plates from welding together!!
Drain it, flush it if you can, refill with good clean fresh oil of right grade etc and then try it!! If it's gonna work, that's when you'll find out!! Not BEFORE you drainmout the oil flush!!
Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 1:24 pm
by Bruzar
so you recommend i flush it before i change the oil, how do i go about flushing the diff. is it some sort of chemical i run through it?? im not sure
Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 8:45 am
by Jimbo
I drained mine (after oil flush in it for few km) then filled it up with gear oil that i had around....drove for 50 km doing a lot of u turns and figure 8's drained it and then filled up with proper oil!!
Good as new
Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:27 pm
by yellowrunner2
Just went through all the previously mentioned stuff without any joy. So went to see the guys a ARB Bendigo pricing up F & R lockers, told him what I had done. After quoting me for the lockers suggested that I try Holdens friction additive. So after $30 for the small container of goop went in without changing the 140wt oil, and what do you know good as new, well it works now anyway. Worth the mention considering the cost of a rebuild or going to lockers.
Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:42 pm
by jet-6
Contact redline oils, the have some oil thats kick rrs!