How do I? FZJ105 conversion to HDJ105

[physh]

I have a 2002 FZJ105R GXL landcruiser.

I hate the petrol auto, should have bought a manual diesel... but it still would only have been a 1HZ with a turbo bolted on.

How much and how hard is it to change this sucker to a 1HD-FT or 1HD-FTE?

I can claim the whole amount as an engine replacement if I can get a shop to do it...

Has anyone actually done this?


Cheers
Nick

[Red Rover]

I looked at it because I thought my 80 series 4.5 auto was a slug - I can tell you a new ecu and auto upgrade made a big difference, too the point where nearly every guy in the club with a petrol/diesel auto after having driven mine is doing the same upgrade.

I personally was a little let down by the 1hdt-fe after getting my petrol going well, in any case you will need a wrecked one to grab all the bits from like tail shafts, wiring harness, gearbox etc etc etc. Cost about 11-14 grand for a wreck that I have seen. 4wd wrecking in brisbane just converted a 4.5 petrol auto 80 series to a 1hdt-fe auto - cost about 20 grand drive in drive out and they had a wreck to get parts from. If I do it I'll just get another one, IMO

hope it helps.....somewhat

[crosswire]

I looked at it because I thought my 80 series 4.5 auto was a slug - I can tell you a new ecu and auto upgrade made a big difference, too the point where nearly every guy in the club with a petrol/diesel auto after having driven mine is doing the same upgrade.

Red rover, what upgrades did you get done to your 80 series 4.5 auto???
I have one and it would be great if it performed better. What was your fuel economy like before and after the upgrades?

[dow50r]

Easiest way is to convert it at your toyota dealer....if we r talking about thesame wrecker...he said he would never do another fze to hdfte because he had to change EVERYTHING fuel tanks, dash, complete wiring harnesses and he needed 3 to make 1....
With LPG being so affordable these days...and running around 10c/km why would you bother with a diseasel. I went from fze to hdft and the later is a truck compared to the former....the petrol was just so nice to drive.
Andrew

[physh]

I'm hoping to get a 1HD-FT (24 valve turbo, mechanical injection) put in.
Excuse my ignorance... but does it require a different ECU, seeing as it's mechanically injected?

I already have the 4.5 petrol auto running injected LPG (twin belly tanks).
Problem is range - I only get 230km out of 73L of LPG, and 660km out of 145L of ULP!

dow50r - you didn't like the 1HD-FT?
Was it just too rough etc?
Did it have much more torque/power down low?

How much did it cost you?

[physh]

Will things like the diff ratio's have to be changed?

Cheers
Nick

[dow50r]

I'm hoping to get a 1HD-FT (24 valve turbo, mechanical injection) put in.
Excuse my ignorance... but does it require a different ECU, seeing as it's mechanically injected?

I already have the 4.5 petrol auto running injected LPG (twin belly tanks).
Problem is range - I only get 230km out of 73L of LPG, and 660km out of 145L of ULP!

dow50r - you didn't like the 1HD-FT?
Was it just too rough etc?
Did it have much more torque/power down low?

How much did it cost you?

Nick
to do the hdft, you will need a motor, 1hz engine mounts, fuel tank hoses with solenoids, diesel gearbox, higher lift front springs, it will fit ok, but alot of work....i realise they are a better motor for towing/travelling/ but when you put the foot down off thelights, they take a while to get going, and overtaking is not an option at speed like you can with a petrol, ... you can expect to get 12l/100 at $130 pl thats comparable with what you get on lpg now, but that is when the motor is tuned perfect....mine at the moment uses more like 15l/100 Your diff ratios can stay thesame, i would suggest you seriously consider ripping out the sub tank and fitting in its place a 100l usable gas tank aswell as the twin bellys, then you have a different equasion....170 litres of gas or 600 kms on gas using 30l/100 (this is way too much, check your brakes are not dragging and your air filter is clean) and 400km on 90l ulp....i would suggest it wouldnt cost much at all to do, you will need to move the tyre elsewhere and get some new springs for the back then....

[physh]

It's pretty hard to find any LPG cylinders lately, plus I doubt I'd ever be able to do things like the Canning Stock Route which is why I bought the vehicle in the first place...

For now I'm going to go the long range fuel tank, carry jerries and save my money for a new 200 series v8 twin turbo diesel and 650NM of torque...

Thanks for your input guys.

[Red Rover]

Easiest way is to convert it at your toyota dealer....if we r talking about thesame wrecker...he said he would never do another fze to hdfte because he had to change EVERYTHING fuel tanks, dash, complete wiring harnesses and he needed 3 to make 1....
With LPG being so affordable these days...and running around 10c/km why would you bother with a diseasel. I went from fze to hdft and the later is a truck compared to the former....the petrol was just so nice to drive.
Andrew

Yep that's what they said never again. I agree, the diesel is like a truck compared to the petrol, not to mention if you blow a motor the expense with a diesel. I reckon once you have to spend money to repair a diesel 5-10grand and take into account injector pump rebuilds etc you have done you are ass in it. The best diesel is a new one or near new, get it for the economy as they are heaps better on fuel than a petrol equivalent, drve it and sell it and upgrade before you have to spend money on it because 20 grand for a conversersion is a lot of ULP, even at 7-8 grand for a multivalve diesel second hand is a lot of ULP, and thats not counting services every 5K. Only my opinion though.

To quickly answer crosswires questions, bugger all difference in economy, just goes heaps better for the same fuel. The valve body upgrade made it heaps better to drive in every way and heaps better off road, lot more direct without the excess slippage. Again the ecu made more power, but about the same fuel economy, still get around 4.5 kms per 1 litre of fuel around town. Higway about 5.5- 6.

As you already have a 100 series, I still it is easier to convert with a 100 to an 80 series. At least if you have a 100 series wreck, and providing you do most the work yourself to shouldn't be too bad, still about 15 grand buy the time you finish. But yu may well be albe to sell left overs from the wreck. The only thing you would need to check is the emissions for an 80 series multivalve into a 100 series because I am near certian that the efi will have different emissions to the 80 series equivalent with the mechanical pump. You can put a better emissioned motor in another vehicle, but no the reverse.

Cheers

[crosswire]

To quickly answer crosswires questions, bugger all difference in economy, just goes heaps better for the same fuel. The valve body upgrade made it heaps better to drive in every way and heaps better off road, lot more direct without the excess slippage. Again the ecu made more power, but about the same fuel economy, still get around 4.5 kms per 1 litre of fuel around town. Higway about 5.5- 6.

Cheers

Sorry to go off topic physh,
Red Rover, can you let me know where you had this done and cost??? Very interested!

[Red Rover]

To quickly answer crosswires questions, bugger all difference in economy, just goes heaps better for the same fuel. The valve body upgrade made it heaps better to drive in every way and heaps better off road, lot more direct without the excess slippage. Again the ecu made more power, but about the same fuel economy, still get around 4.5 kms per 1 litre of fuel around town. Higway about 5.5- 6.

Cheers

Sorry to go off topic physh,
Red Rover, can you let me know where you had this done and cost??? Very interested!

Without hijacking the thread, I have sent you a PM

[+dj_hansen+]

Why not sell the petrol, buy a turbo diesel and do a SAS... surely that would be cheaper in the long run...

A SAS would be around $5 - 6k, plus maybe a little extra on the purchase price for the turbo model, swap over any goodies from the petrol model, benefit from any goodies u get on the diesel model... and u'll get a nice 5 link front

[physh]

Why not sell the petrol, buy a turbo diesel and do a SAS... surely that would be cheaper in the long run...

A SAS would be around $5 - 6k, plus maybe a little extra on the purchase price for the turbo model, swap over any goodies from the petrol model, benefit from any goodies u get on the diesel model... and u'll get a nice 5 link front

hmmm... didn't think of that... Where can I get some more info on getting a solid front axle setup done for a HDJ100?

mmm 5 link front articulation plus multivalve intercooled turbo diesel goodness...

...But the cost of getting out of one lease, taking up another, paying stamp duty etc means I'll be up for a fair bit to swap out at the moment.

[Hardcorr]

Wow, and I've got a diseasel manual 80 and hate it. I wish I had the Petrol Auto out of my 40th Aniversary in my toy 80. The diseasel's should never have been able to come from factory without a turbo.
Yep, the petrols consume more fuel, but if you gotta worry about it you shouldn't be driving one.
The cost of diseasel servicing, repairs if/when needed and the frustration of no power really makes a petrol seem not so costly. Expecially when it comes to the smoothness and not so truck like difference.
This is my 2c worth as an owner of both.

Cheers
Corry