Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am having problems eliminating clunks in driveline.
2 yr old rebuilt lt95
Tapered roller bearing t.c
2 yr old front maxi 4.11
new cw+p in maxi in rear
It clunks when changing up and down unless you are ultra smooth and going quite slow.
When I did the tapered roller conversion I thought there was alot of backlash in the centre diff, but the workshop manual just says to put it together with no adjustment. Does anyone know if the centre diff backlash can beadjusted and where to get the info?
The other culprit I thought could be bearing preload on the centre diff through insufficent shiming on the speedo drive housing, does more bearing preload make the centre diff work more ( the reason I ask is once I put too much preload on the centre diff and the car would move a small amount with one prop shaft removed and the centre diff unlocked)

I assume lt230 would behave the same

Cheers

try the rear a frame ball joint? or the lower rear trailing arm bushes?

ball joint generally gives you a clunk, is it worse going from reverse to forward ?

Simon

Hi,

Probably impossible to get rid of all clunks. Sounds like rear ball joint. If stuffed get an adjustable / greasable one from LRA, Maxi, Graeme Cooper.
I've seen amazing amounts of slop in some stuffed ones. The sealed ones don't seem to last very long.

You can check centre diff (CD) slop by disconnecting both prop shafts at TC. Rotate one drive flange and see how far you have to turn it to take up slop before other one turns. Should not exceed 1/8 turn. Someone correct me if this wrong.

CD's can be rebuilt. Bad ones require some machining, but I don't know what exactly is involved.

Can email w/shop manual for LT 230 that describes CD assembly and shimming process in detail, if you want. Don't know if same applies to LT 95 CD.

Cheers, DL

Hi,

Probably impossible to get rid of all clunks. Sounds like rear ball joint. If stuffed get an adjustable / greasable one from LRA, Maxi, Graeme Cooper.
I've seen amazing amounts of slop in some stuffed ones. The sealed ones don't seem to last very long.

You can check centre diff (CD) slop by disconnecting both prop shafts at TC. Rotate one drive flange and see how far you have to turn it to take up slop before other one turns. Should not exceed 1/8 turn. Someone correct me if this wrong.

CD's can be rebuilt. Bad ones require some machining, but I don't know what exactly is involved.

Can email w/shop manual for LT 230 that describes CD assembly and shimming process in detail, if you want. Don't know if same applies to LT 95 CD.

Cheers, DL

I haven't checked rear ball joint as it is only 4 years old and the clunks sound more like gear box related.
AFAIK the way to check ball joint is tyre lever method.Speak up if i'm wrong.
I think the "repair manual Australian army vehicles" has a section on how to set up a CD but for love, money, guns or drugs I can't get a copy.

i just lay underneath the rear with the handbreak on and rock the truck back and forth as hard as i can. If the diff piviots, the a frame joint is rs.

Also have you got fully floating axles front or rear? the way you tell is if you have a rubber cap on the center of the outside wheel hub. if so pop this cap off and repeat the same procedure above. if the splines are worn (as many defenders are) ring up maxidrive and get some more.


As for any gearbox questions ring Peter Laquant (sp) of Range Parts on 02 98962355, he used to have the army contract, and what ever he doesnt know about the LT95 isn't worth knowing.

Andy

I did a test today; centre diff locked clunks dissapeared but at low speed the car shuders, so it sounds like it is in the CD somewhere.
Does anyone have any thoughts.

andrew e wrote: Also have you got fully floating axles front or rear? the way you tell is if you have a rubber cap on the center of the outside wheel hub. if so pop this cap off and repeat the same procedure above. if the splines are worn (as many defenders are) ring up maxidrive and get some more.

All land-rovers have fully floating axles - except for early S1's, S2 discos, and IFS/IRS models. Fully floating means the axle doesn't hold the wheel on - i.e. the wheel will not fall off if the axle breaks.

swamp wrote:I did a test today; centre diff locked clunks dissapeared but at low speed the car shuders, so it sounds like it is in the CD somewhere.
Does anyone have any thoughts.

That depends on how bad it really is...

How bad is it?
The shudder is like having the hand brake on a few notches, or for an lt95 handbrake about 2/3 rds.
Cheers