Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hello,

Do MQ's come out factory with some form of sump gaurd? or something to keep mud and debris out of the engine bay? (My engine got caked in mud yesterday at kusiousko).

If so, are they all the same i.e: the petrol and deisel models?



Also would the leaf springs from a LWB fit a SWB?

Thanks.

no they dont mate only thing i can recomend is gettin some rubber and puttin it up inside your wheel wells and cable tying it down to ur chassis ...

also when goin through mud watch the alternator cause of it sittin down low as well

Heath

yes they do, My lwb td has a bash plate under the sump

Cheers

Yes, they have to bash plates actually. One under the sump triangular in shape. The other is in front of the crossmember under the gearbox bolted between the chasey rails.

They keep a lot of the crap out too.

the point about the alterinator is spot on also.

Under the front guards where the shock goes is usually a rubber screen, usually missing that is where I think Zero was talking about, another good idea.
Herks

There are actually 3 plates underneath even on the shorty, one under transfer brake, one further forward and a triangular one mounted on tube to help sump etc out. I made a chequrre plate one that folloed contoure of chassis rails for about $100 and used original mounting points for all but 2 bolts.

my bad i thought there wasnt cause i have never seen one on a shorty guess they all get ripped off would explain alot about a few marks on my chassis

Patroldude wrote:There are actually 3 plates underneath even on the shorty, one under transfer brake, one further forward and a triangular one mounted on tube to help sump etc out. I made a chequrre plate one that folloed contoure of chassis rails for about $100 and used original mounting points for all but 2 bolts.

any pics mate would? how does it performe compared to the standard one, mine has gone through the was

Thanks for the feedback everyone!.

I notice that I have two guards under the transfer case and gearbox, but not engine, so I will have to look out for one.

I find out about the alternator the hard way: It was making a horrible noise after two consecutive weekends in the mud, so I pulled it out today and discovered that the bearings need replacing as well as the bushes.

The Vacuum pump on the back of the alternator was leaking oil on the side that bolts to the alternator, so it will need new seals as well.

So I guess I have two options: Buy a second hand alternator/vacuum pump assembly (hoping they are in good condition) and just bolt them in, or buy bearings/seals and rebuild the original ones. Any thoughts?? Are the rebuild kits readily available??

I also had to remove the radiator and clean the caked mud off it: It was overheating majorly from no air flow....I love it

The Vacuum pump on the back of the alternator was leaking oil on the side that bolts to the alternator, so it will need new seals as well

Isnt there just an o ring in there between the pump and alt? i think you can see it when the pump comes off, if so you may be able to get away with just replacing that, and there may be a shaft seal on the alternator where the shaft comes out??
I got new brushes and bearings put in mine a while ago, mud definately stuffs them around, tends to get in the brushes and make them not contact the slip rings, then the charge light and the filter light come on

Patchy wrote:

Patroldude wrote:There are actually 3 plates underneath even on the shorty, one under transfer brake, one further forward and a triangular one mounted on tube to help sump etc out. I made a chequrre plate one that folloed contoure of chassis rails for about $100 and used original mounting points for all but 2 bolts.

any pics mate would? how does it performe compared to the standard one, mine has gone through the was

shit just read my post. i was on the piss that night i will just corect what was said

any pics mate? how does it performe compared to the standard one, mine has gone through the wars? i would assume it would keep more mud and shit out!!

True that about the O-ring, but mine has a oil seal, contrary to what is in the workshop manual (o-ring). I got some bearings from CBC today for the measly sum of $21, and will order the large o-ring and oil seal from Nissan tomorrow. Repco should have a set of bushes, so I hope the total rebuild will be under $50.