Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hi i,ve been looking around at dual cabs for a while and i need something that will take a load and not sit on its arse while i like landys ive never owned one, i want to know what to look out for. what to avoid and what to worry about after i get my new toy .thanks

What exactly are your questions?

130s can take a load without problems, they have dual coil springs on the rear (one inside the other) - just make sure the inners haven't been removed if you want to load it up.

Have a read here for things to check/avoid:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... tdi+timing
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... tdi+timing

basically my question should be read as i,ve decided that the 130 is the best balanaced looking dual cab around re.axle position under tray .love the look of them, but other people cast doubts about reliabillity and nigly little problems just trying to find as much information as possible and make an informed decision when i do buy.thanks for your assistance.

Apart from the problems mentioned in the links I posted above (timing belt alignment and gearbox mainshaft lubrication - early models) - both of which can be fixed easily - they are no less reliable than any other vehicle.

A mate of mine in the LROCB has a 300TDI 130, and it will happily tow a 40' caravan with 5 people on board and a load in the tray.

Mate they go like stink - lightweight body, plenty of power=fun. Not heard of any significant probe either...

other things to be aware of is that the turning circle is huge and crew cabs can crack the chassis when used hard (abused) roughly where the A frame cross member meets the side rails. Most ex govt/stat authority ones I've seen are cracked here (as is mine) due to overloading and heavy off roading.
The CC takes a load (stock suspension) far better than a coil cab Patrol ute (we have both) and is better/more comfortable off road.

thanks again for your help, chassis cracking is something i will definately look out for now . maybe i,ll just have to buy a new one

spottydog wrote:thanks again for your help, chassis cracking is something i will definately look out for now . maybe i,ll just have to buy a new one

Personally I would buy a 2nd hand one that still has a salisbury rear diff. The salisbury diff (AKA Dana 60, AKA almost unbreakable) was phased out in about 2002 to save money, and replaced with the rover diff that discos and rangies have/had.

It is easy to tell the difference - a salisbury looks like this:


A rover diff looks like this:


However you could just retrofit a salisbury if you really want a new 130.

The Rover diff in the back of the later ones is a P38 range Rover 4 pin and is very strong. No advantage going for teh salisbury in my opinion.

Pete

Petes wrote:The Rover diff in the back of the later ones is a P38 range Rover 4 pin and is very strong. No advantage going for teh salisbury in my opinion.

Pete

except that a Sals is probably twice as strong a centre...........

rick130 wrote:

Petes wrote:The Rover diff in the back of the later ones is a P38 range Rover 4 pin and is very strong. No advantage going for teh salisbury in my opinion.

Pete

except that a Sals is probably twice as strong a centre...........

Exactly - I find it funny all the people arguind that the rover/p38A diff is strong, as it still has the same old (8.5") spiral bevel CW&P. The salisbury CW&P is 9.75" and HYPOID, which makes it a lot stronger.