Outer Limits 4x4 Board

well im still searching....that last sale fell through, and now my hilux has been defected....but im still determined to get a disco! grrr
found one on ebay...series one, 2 inch lift, 3 inch xhaust, bar, winch, no sand work or towing work, 198thousand k. butttttt its in victoria, the guy says its all good, barely leaks oil, everything works fine, but blows some black smoke on idle, normal for a diesel with those k's?
any of you blokes in victoria wanna check it out for me
he says he's never changed the timing belt while he's owned it..so im a bit suss on that one, and he's be negotiable if noone bids on ebay.. which i like also, it seems like everything i want exactly in a disco and i want it oh so badly.....cept im a little worried bout the smoke and the no belt change? anyone shed some light for me perhaps? or go check it out

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 0062632736
thanks a lot guys, ill get one eventually dammit!

It would have a 200tdi so they are not known for belt problems although it should have had a replacement done by now, the g/box could be a worry as it should be an lt77 and they are known to wear. It is pretty well set up and would take you whever you want to go for about 900 k's or so.

whats your price range? Mother inlaw is looking at selling hers soon, its a 96 ES, Deisel, Auto,Charcoal, Winch bar, 235 bfg a/t, cb, elec brakes, new motor done about 10k, 2.5" exhaust, injecter pump turned up, turbo turned up or whatever they do, don't know what its worth though.

Belt replacement interval for 200tdis is 100k km, so due for its 2nd belt now. Replacement interval for a 300Tdi is 70k km

so the 93 is definitly a 200tdi then? id much prefer that....from all ive read they seem to be a lot less hassle, as for the gearbox, i think he said its leaking a tad, but not much, is the timing belt any harder than normal to change? did it in the hilux with no worries... with the tensioners and all, only cost me roughly 160 bucks to do.
im very keen on it.

6.5 rangie, thanks, but ive definitly got my heart set on a manual, cheers though.

while im here, any idea on costs to ship it from vic to gold coast? or would i be better off flyin down and missin a day off work and driving it back?

--sinner-- wrote:while im here, any idea on costs to ship it from vic to gold coast? or would i be better off flyin down and missin a day off work and driving it back?

Yes, make a trip of it !

hehe, that was the original plan i can stay overnight in sydney at a friends, have some beers, then keep on goin the day after hehe, you think that smoke is normal?

if you are concerned about the smoke, why not ask him to take it to a rover specialist of your choice, and have them look at it?

Most diesels tend to be smoky one way or another - especially cold, and I wonder whether the smoke on idle is partly due to the 3 inch exhaust - if its straight through with no mufflers, might make it more noticeable.

Probably a good idea to get it checked by someone who knows if it is interstate.

Autotrans ships vehicles by rail if you don't want to drive it.

AFAIK it costs about $800 to get a mechanic to replace the belt. You need to remove the radiator, crank pulley, fan, etc., You need a special tool to lock the flywheel and injector pump in the right position, but other than that it is able to be done DIY.

re the special tool to lock the injector pump - can easily be made by grabbing a bolt of slightly larger size and grinding the thread off it until it fits through the pulley and into the hole behind it (a snug fit is preferable) You need to back the little bolts that hold the pulley to the pump off a bit, as the pulley is slotted to allow slight repositioning to get the teeth lined up to the belt and cam pulley. Don't forget to tighten them once the belt is tensioned!

Locking the flywheel involves getting hold of a wading plug (or similar which will fit), drilling a hole up the guts and tack welding a pin into it, to engage in the slot in the bottom of the flywheel. HOWEVER, the belt can easily be done without pinning the flywheel (you can't actually pin an auto crank into position anyways).

What you do need is a torque wrench that goes down to around 10nm, as the required belt tension is somewhere around 17nm from memory (if not lower). Recommend turning motor over by hand once everything is set up, and to be really cautious put the balancer back on without the front cover on, and run it for 20 secs or so to check the belt is running correctly etc. Switch off and recheck tension. Don't forget to remove pins before you start it too, as that WILL break things.

You don't need to remove the radiator either, it will give you a bit more room, but its not a requirement.

All this applies to both 200 and 300tdi, from memory. If someone wants to copy this into another section, feel free - I'm too lazy to look where it would go well.