Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Quick noob Q...

If you wanted to stay away from spoa, and you already had 2" springs, could you do a RUF (with small chassis ext) using these then put some 2" ome hilux rears on the back? is this too much lift while still spua?

Affects on steering/driveshafts?

I searched

DEEV8 wrote:Quick noob Q...

If you wanted to stay away from spoa, and you already had 2" springs, could you do a RUF (with small chassis ext) using these then put some 2" ome hilux rears on the back? is this too much lift while still spua?

Affects on steering/driveshafts?

I searched

Dunno about your laws.
But I was thinking of doing this, too.
If I don't get a Jimny.
I've seen a couple of zooks with hilux leaves, and they don't look too high or silly to me.
But I'm not Mr Qld Plod.

Remember hilux leaves ones are wider than zook ones.

Nic

The white zook 30sec into this Vid is hi lux all round I think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lm2LR9BK ... ed&search=

I suppose with some new spring hangers on chassis, you could pick the height you wanted.

whats the specs on the red one on bogger 3 mins into the vid.

I love the turbo olive drab zuk...

back on topic I dont know if any one makes em, but i dont suppose some 4" lifted zuk rears sprung under would flex too well?

DEEV8 wrote:whats the specs on the red one on bogger 3 mins into the vid.

I love the turbo olive drab zuk...

back on topic I dont know if any one makes em, but i dont suppose some 4" lifted zuk rears sprung under would flex too well?

That was big steves rig.
34" ltb swampers.
rears up front ome all round.
50mm body lift
5:12 r&p and 6:1 rockhopper
If I remember right. He moved North a while back. Traitor

The OD zook is a cappuccino 660cc 3 cyl turbo.
With pretty much similar specs to the red one.

if you meant the red coiler its on 31" simex et's 50mm body and running a 1.0 litre trans case.


huge arched lifted springs would be too stiff, and a cow to drive, I believe.
Extend shackles, or put spacers under the chassis spring hangers.

Cutting is better than lifting, as it looks more normal, ie less noticeable by the law.

christover

christover

You would be better off putting hilux fronts on the rear.

What your asking is exactly what i did except i used Hilux fronts on the rear.

This mod done properly will look stock.
Dont put big raised springs in cause they wont flex.

I think 33's may be a bit big for what you are trying to accomplish. To fit 33's SPUA there is a heap of cutting needed. Also will need to be bumbstopped a fair bit. I got away with it after cutting most of my inner guards out. If your going to be a DD i would maybe choose i generous 31. Depends on how much work your prepared to do though.

Ive just done it. Moved the mounts forward with a short chassis extension, put slightly raised stock rears in front, and some 2" lifted ironmans up the back.

PJ.zook wrote:Ive just done it. Moved the mounts forward with a short chassis extension, put slightly raised stock rears in front, and some 2" lifted ironmans up the back.

Pics?

Heres a few of the extension

christover1 wrote:The white zook 30sec into this Vid is hi lux all round I think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lm2LR9BK ... ed&search=

Hey Christover1 do all the zooks in the clip have hilux diffs ?

They all look to be pretty wide and look to have 33's.

Thanks for the info

CWBYUP wrote:

christover1 wrote:The white zook 30sec into this Vid is hi lux all round I think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lm2LR9BK ... ed&search=

Hey Christover1 do all the zooks in the clip have hilux diffs ?

They all look to be pretty wide and look to have 33's.

Thanks for the info

No hilux diffs in that vid.
Only hilux leafs on the white zook.
Width on mine is by rim offset.
I run 32's which measure 31"
Some use later wt diffs on a nt chassis.
Plus width in the tyre.
Nobody is using spacers at the moment.
Zook diffs cope with what we give them, tho I do understand other states have differing conditions.
I use LJ diff centres from the 2stroke 500cc lj.
Over 33 does seem to eat more cv's tho, but nobodys busted a lot of anything else.
I guess you need to respect your parts, know what you got.
Hi lux diff pumpkins are stronger of course, but this makes them bigger, limitting ground clearance, thus detracting from the larger tyres they can run.
Everything is a balance and compromise.
Everyones needs differ, too.
So no right answers suit all.
christover

i guess the only real way to get decent flex and clearance for big tyres is spring over, or cutting the shit outa guards...

Thanks guys, Im thinkin 2" susp lift, 2" body, ext shackles & cut guards with bushwackers...

Now i just gotta find a cheap zuk... Any good links for reading up on year models for NT > WT, and 1.0L to 1.3L? etc...?

(been reading a bit of bible, and a bit on pirate, but its american so im not sure how accurate it would be to australian suzi's...)

I have set my zook up to run 34in LTB SPUA. 2in body + 2in springs RUF and minor trimming of the firewall and alteration of the headlight bucket.

I put a couple pics in the 32in tyre thread of what was done. also spaced the bump stop down 50mm on the front and 15mm on the back.

SPOA is not the only way.

sorry jtraf,

are you saying you used stock rear springs up front, or lifted up front.

If lifted, what did you use at the back?

got any more pics of that rig mate? looks

DEEV8 wrote:sorry jtraf,

are you saying you used stock rear springs up front, or lifted up front.

If lifted, what did you use at the back?

got any more pics of that rig mate? looks

What he said cause this is what i have been thinking about.

How well does it flex ?

theres a pic in my thread called "32s" im goin through the process atm prob read that thread and " new wheels bauhgt tongiht" pretty much exactly what im goin throuhgh.

i have done ruf in my 90 sierra i will post some before and after pics. i redrilled the rear spring mount i will do a chassis extention when i have more time i alos have extended shackles in the front.
it has 31's on it
here is the before pic. it has std rears and std rears up front and extended shackles


here is an after with 2 inch lifted ironman rears all round

CanberraMav wrote: I think 33's may be a bit big for what you are trying to accomplish. To fit 33's SPUA there is a heap of cutting needed. Also will need to be bumbstopped a fair bit. I got away with it after cutting most of my inner guards out. If your going to be a DD i would maybe choose i generous 31. Depends on how much work your prepared to do though.

I will either be buying a cheap stocko, and building it up, or buying my mates modded one cheap (if he ever gets round to buying a new car & selling it to me) At the moment his is spua 2"lift, 2" bl, on 31s, flexs like a skateboard and undergeared. I want to go bigger with better flex and regear.

Im thinking about RUF the rear 2" lift leaves, small chassis ext, re drilling the chassis spring plates to get them them level with the 2" lifted new ome rears. Also ext the shackles front & rear.

after getting what ever height i can (without sacrificing to much ride quality or going spoa) i will cut guards to fit...

I was just seeing if there was a way to get any more height without sacrificing flex, staying spua, to minimise guard cutting.

DEEV8 wrote:

CanberraMav wrote: I think 33's may be a bit big for what you are trying to accomplish. To fit 33's SPUA there is a heap of cutting needed. Also will need to be bumbstopped a fair bit. I got away with it after cutting most of my inner guards out. If your going to be a DD i would maybe choose i generous 31. Depends on how much work your prepared to do though.

I will either be buying a cheap stocko, and building it up, or buying my mates modded one cheap (if he ever gets round to buying a new car & selling it to me) At the moment his is spua 2"lift, 2" bl, on 31s, flexs like a skateboard and undergeared. I want to go bigger with better flex and regear.

Im thinking about RUF the rear 2" lift leaves, small chassis ext, re drilling the chassis spring plates to get them them level with the 2" lifted new ome rears. Also ext the shackles front & rear.

after getting what ever height i can (without sacrificing to much ride quality or going spoa) i will cut guards to fit...

I was just seeing if there was a way to get any more height without sacrificing flex, staying spua, to minimise guard cutting.

shackle extensions or spacers under the chassis spring hangers, or 3/4 elyptic rear will help.
ruf is brilliant in all respects, but redrilling spring perches to move front diff forward is free in the meantime

When doing RUF roughly what height differance front to rear is there with 2" lifted springs all round ?

Is packers the easiest way to do it ? Or extended shackels ?

Cheers Nick

Stock rear springs up front using oringinal mounting points give 2" lift, am i correct?
So 2" lifted leaves will be longer again, giving more lift, but unless you extend the mounting points (shackles furter foward, redrill plates back at rear) then its not going to flex very well, because the springs will be to arched/shackle will be at a whack angle. (thats as i understand it anyway, dont quote me, im noob too lol)

Would extending shackles 2" and spacing chassis spring hangars (say 1") cause havoc on the suspension? (sounds like it would give 1.5 lift?)

Sorry if im asking stupid questions or if im trying to go about things the completely wrong way. Just tryin to get an idea of things. Want to do the least amount of irreversible work possible (ie cutting up guards, wider mounts/shackles for wider springs etc)

Thanks for that mate.

I'm thinking 2" lifed rears front and back but do a chassis extention and use the orginal mounting points in the back to move the diff foward so i dont have to cut as much of the fire wall.

I just need to know will this work ? How far will I have to move the mounts foward ? can i run standard shackels and just go further foward and use my body lift or am i better to go chassis extention 2" shackels and no body lift ?

Just trying to keep under 4" of total lift if possible and still run 33"s

Cheers Nick

I bought new OME HD 2in lifted rears x 2 sets.

I have removed a couple of the bottom leaves at the moment but they are pretty stiff. Once I have it on the road I will probably remove another leaf to aid with flex. The advatage of the Heavy duty OME rears as that the secondary leaf is also full length as per the primary length spring.

I don't want to make them too soft as I am not going to be running a trak bar and don't want to z the springs.

Will probably have a few more pics in a week or two.

James