Outer Limits 4x4 Board

whats the best material to use with a body lift
heard that neoprene doesnt squek like metal but it will crack whereas metal is much stronger
only gonna be a 2" lift
also if i get neoprene do i have to turn the ends up or do i just cut up perfect cylinder shapes
either way the blocks have to be wider than the existing ones dont they?
cheers
tommo

2 materials that work well and are reativily cheap....

1st is ..... wood !!!!, yep a bit of redgum works real well and its a natural product and damn cheap.

2nd is.... the rubber that they use to make the rollers on boat trailers from, get the rollers from a marine shop and cut to size !

neoprene..... not cheap !
steel............ requires manafacturing and ya still gott put in rub bushes!

yeh heard bout the boat rollers
do i just leave then ends flat like a perfect cylinder or do i turn them up a lil bit?

I dont want to say it........

But SEARCH!

This has been done to death and quite lenghty discussions on it too.

You can get Ultra High Density Polyethylene in 1m lengths for around $30, cut your blocks and you are done.

Alloy blocks work well.

ToNkA wrote:I dont want to say it........

But SEARCH!

This has been done to death and quite lenghty discussions on it too.

You can get Ultra High Density Polyethylene in 1m lengths for around $30, cut your blocks and you are done.

i did this 5 secs b4 u posted the um .....post
30 bucks eh
that aint bad
cheers

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cheers tonka save me stuffing round with search

Solid alloy machine rod. Cheap as, easy to work/machine, also one of only two materials that will be passed by DOT (depending on your state though). Rubber is unstable, needs a crush tube, a bitch to drill/machine. Urethane also needs a crush tube and a bitch to machine. Alloy and steel need no crush tube and are easier to work with common hand tools. Also there is not as much lateral stability with urethane/crush tube as there is with a large diameter solid rod. This lack of stability/surface area can damage the chassis mounts and the cab/floor mounts.

i made a 2"body lift for a zook from alloy blocks(x10) bolts and steering spacer for $50.

yet more evidence of OLBB getting more PBB-ish

eh?

sorry i wasn't referring to your post mark

for the original poster, there was a guy on here advertisting b/l kits not long ago. might've been roc70y but i can't remember. search for sale for body lift kits.

i also have 10 x 3" HDPU blocks if you're interested

Tonka, the UHDPE stuff you say is only $30m is that Pactene or Acetal?
I just did my bodylift this week and I found two types of UHDPE. Pactene was $110/m and the Acetal was considerably cheaper at $45/m. Is there another type that is cheaper still??

V8Patrol wrote:...materials that work well and are reativily cheap....

1st is ..... wood !!!!, yep a bit of redgum works real well and its a natural product and damn cheap.

love it! A guy running a very competitive zook here in QLD actually has this as a lift block! and he's an engineer...

Area54 wrote:Solid alloy machine rod. Cheap as, easy to work/machine, also one of only two materials that will be passed by DOT (depending on your state though). Rubber is unstable, needs a crush tube, a bitch to drill/machine. Urethane also needs a crush tube and a bitch to machine. Alloy and steel need no crush tube and are easier to work with common hand tools. Also there is not as much lateral stability with urethane/crush tube as there is with a large diameter solid rod. This lack of stability/surface area can damage the chassis mounts and the cab/floor mounts.

got mine in a length from Capral alloy in Dande, they cut it and all for nothin, AWILL drilled it for a few beers

bogged wrote:

Area54 wrote:Solid alloy machine rod. Cheap as, easy to work/machine, also one of only two materials that will be passed by DOT (depending on your state though). Rubber is unstable, needs a crush tube, a bitch to drill/machine. Urethane also needs a crush tube and a bitch to machine. Alloy and steel need no crush tube and are easier to work with common hand tools. Also there is not as much lateral stability with urethane/crush tube as there is with a large diameter solid rod. This lack of stability/surface area can damage the chassis mounts and the cab/floor mounts.

got mine in a length from Capral alloy in Dande, they cut it and all for nothin, AWILL drilled it for a few beers

Did the same for the lux (Capral in Slacks creek) they docked it on the drop, (very square ends - no need to face, just arris the sharp edges) and centre bored on my drill press.

Guys,

What about using nylon for this task?

I used nylon rod for my body lift and it works well.
Im not sure about the legal side of things though, some people have said that in some states you cant get nylon engineer passed.

This web page has a sh!t load of info on it about body lifts.
http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/Fo ... tKit.shtml
Paul.

cheers everyone for your help
nam thansk but no thanks 3" is too high for me
will keep ya posted on what i will do
thanks everyone

I am about to do a 2 inch body lift this weekend. I am going to use blocks made out of the same material as bread-boards. I am pretty certain its just nylon, but it may have some other funky name??

They seem like really strong blocks....

Guess I will soon find out!!

Stew

P.S. - I am picking up 33 inch tyres this week as well, so the car will be looking good for the outerlimits weekend!!

I went the boat roller route. But dont use rubber, use the red polyurethane ones. Get them twice the length of the lift you want to do, eg if you want 2 inch lift, get 4 inch rollers. Then cut them in half. Already predrilled with large bore centrehole that will take most factory crush tubes.

pegasus wrote:I am about to do a 2 inch body lift this weekend. I am going to use blocks made out of the same material as bread-boards. I am pretty certain its just nylon, but it may have some other funky name??

They seem like really strong blocks....

Guess I will soon find out!!

Stew

My advice would be to use alum blocks - if you get dot'd they won't pass the HDPE blocks. Yes I run HDPE blocks in the mav, but because you havent done the lift yet, you will save yourself in the long run by using alum blocks, but hey it's up to you dude. It's not that the HDPE blocks won't be strong enough (especially around the 70mm OD, and on a runner) its that HDPE is not passable in the pits. Take pics, have fun, any probs just call.

i agree here.i need to get a roadworthy but it wont pass with the nolathane blocks i have in it.i need to get off my ass and make some alloy ones up.

its fairly cheap too,to go alloy.

BundyRumandCoke wrote:I went the boat roller route. But dont use rubber, use the red polyurethane ones. Get them twice the length of the lift you want to do, eg if you want 2 inch lift, get 4 inch rollers. Then cut them in half. Already predrilled with large bore centrehole that will take most factory crush tubes.

I'm not a big fan of this - the urethane does bugger all to support the body- 96% of the load is on the crush tube, and this has virtually no lateral rigidity due to its relatively small surface area. If it works for you great, just keep an eye on your body, getting puckered in by the small crush tube, and the chassis mounts flexing and (possibly) deforming.

54, not quite correct in what you say. The centre diametre of the rollers almost exactly mimic the diametre of the OE mounts (about 3mm difference), then the flare at each end of the roller actually allows a larger contact area under the body. The crush tube does not extend all the way through the roller, but extends enough to locate it in place. The body is supported by the block, not the crush tube. It works for my Rocky, anyway.