Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Wondering what brand/type of oil do people use on their diesels.

Ive got a ln106 lux and have been using castrol magnatec

'86 LN61 4 runner...
Penrite HPR 15w40

HJ60, 2H. CAT DEO.

My Father used Rimula X for years on his agg equipment with good results.

I use BP Vanellus 15-40, and ryco z9's. in the lux.

Used Bp oils in my garage for years with good results.

I would not reccomend cheap no name oils.

Trains

Shell Delo and a Ryco Z9 filter
Chuck out that "magnacrap"

Have been using penzoil but recently changed to Motul

BJ

2.8 hilux Repco oil and z9 every 2500

theres always one clown

i use penrite in my 2.8lux

Depends on what servo the truck company I am working for at the time has a fuel card for

bj42turbo wrote:Have been using penzoil but recently changed to Motul

BJ

I'll be having words

high n mighty wrote:Depends on what servo the truck company I am working for at the time has a fuel card for

thats it whatever work has in the drums at the time

I have one major word of caution with regards to oils, Find one oil and stick with it. Changing brands of oils will kill an engine faster than just using a cheap one espically if the detergent and additive levels change considerably.

My old man told me to find one oil and stick with it, I always followed his advice, but wondered a bit. Now I have the proof. I lent my mate my BJ40 and I have always used Shell Helix Diesel Oil. He had it for a 18 months and I had given him the oil for oil changes but ran out 3 months before he return it. But in some high quality Mobil Oil (because he had a mobil card and thought he was doing the right thing). Within a few thousand kms head gasket leaked, put pressure into radiator and cooked the motor. Result new head (large cracks between the valves) and probably needs new injectors and a tune up.

I have now moved over to Shell Rimula X Diesel oil as it is better but started out by topping up the old oil with Rimulax, then a 50/50 mix before now running straight Rimula X, and have not had any problems.

I have also used Toyota Motor Oil in past cars with no issues. Just change oil and filters every 10,00 kms and if Turbo change oil every five.

Mind you our 2003 Disco has a 20,000 kms service interval and I still get it done every 10,000 if we use it off road a fair bit (if hard top work, I leave it to 20,000....

BJ73 - Penrite HPR Diesel
HZJ80 - Penrite HPR 15 Diesel

Fresh 2H
Castrol RX Super, ryco filter, 5000km.

Does anybody have any comments RE: the RX super? The only reason i use it is because the old man has used it for years in his cruiser/tractors etc.

stinger wrote:I have one major word of caution with regards to oils, Find one oil and stick with it. Changing brands of oils will kill an engine faster than just using a cheap one espically if the detergent and additive levels change considerably.

My old man told me to find one oil and stick with it, I always followed his advice, but wondered a bit. Now I have the proof. I lent my mate my BJ40 and I have always used Shell Helix Diesel Oil. He had it for a 18 months and I had given him the oil for oil changes but ran out 3 months before he return it. But in some high quality Mobil Oil (because he had a mobil card and thought he was doing the right thing). Within a few thousand kms head gasket leaked, put pressure into radiator and cooked the motor. Result new head (large cracks between the valves) and probably needs new injectors and a tune up.

I have now moved over to Shell Rimula X Diesel oil as it is better but started out by topping up the old oil with Rimulax, then a 50/50 mix before now running straight Rimula X, and have not had any problems.

I have also used Toyota Motor Oil in past cars with no issues. Just change oil and filters every 10,00 kms and if Turbo change oil every five.

Mind you our 2003 Disco has a 20,000 kms service interval and I still get it done every 10,000 if we use it off road a fair bit (if hard top work, I leave it to 20,000....

how can oil cause a head gasket leak O_O

matt.mcinnes wrote:

bj42turbo wrote:Have been using penzoil but recently changed to Motul

BJ

I'll be having words

Just in the Engine, but Penrite else where


BJ

TRY SOME ANGLOMOIL

Shadow wrote:

stinger wrote:I have one major word of caution with regards to oils, Find one oil and stick with it. Changing brands of oils will kill an engine faster than just using a cheap one espically if the detergent and additive levels change considerably.

My old man told me to find one oil and stick with it, I always followed his advice, but wondered a bit. Now I have the proof. I lent my mate my BJ40 and I have always used Shell Helix Diesel Oil. He had it for a 18 months and I had given him the oil for oil changes but ran out 3 months before he return it. But in some high quality Mobil Oil (because he had a mobil card and thought he was doing the right thing). Within a few thousand kms head gasket leaked, put pressure into radiator and cooked the motor. Result new head (large cracks between the valves) and probably needs new injectors and a tune up.

I have now moved over to Shell Rimula X Diesel oil as it is better but started out by topping up the old oil with Rimulax, then a 50/50 mix before now running straight Rimula X, and have not had any problems.

I have also used Toyota Motor Oil in past cars with no issues. Just change oil and filters every 10,00 kms and if Turbo change oil every five.

Mind you our 2003 Disco has a 20,000 kms service interval and I still get it done every 10,000 if we use it off road a fair bit (if hard top work, I leave it to 20,000....

how can oil cause a head gasket leak O_O

X2... Your oil isn't going to effect the sealing of your head gasket.

Castrol RX super
Penrite HPR Diesel.

The best advice in relation to engine oil is use quality and change frequently. I change my oil after a couple of comps or maybe even one comp if i cained it big time for a long time.
When you think of the job your engine oil does you'll realise it is the single most important factor in engine longevitey. It does alot of work. engine oil coolers and oil changes WILL increase engine life.
If you're puzzing around town 5k's. Constant light duty highway K's then every ten is fine. If you're comping then more often.

Ruffy wrote:

Shadow wrote:

stinger wrote:I have one major word of caution with regards to oils, Find one oil and stick with it. Changing brands of oils will kill an engine faster than just using a cheap one espically if the detergent and additive levels change considerably.

My old man told me to find one oil and stick with it, I always followed his advice, but wondered a bit. Now I have the proof. I lent my mate my BJ40 and I have always used Shell Helix Diesel Oil. He had it for a 18 months and I had given him the oil for oil changes but ran out 3 months before he return it. But in some high quality Mobil Oil (because he had a mobil card and thought he was doing the right thing). Within a few thousand kms head gasket leaked, put pressure into radiator and cooked the motor. Result new head (large cracks between the valves) and probably needs new injectors and a tune up.

I have now moved over to Shell Rimula X Diesel oil as it is better but started out by topping up the old oil with Rimulax, then a 50/50 mix before now running straight Rimula X, and have not had any problems.

I have also used Toyota Motor Oil in past cars with no issues. Just change oil and filters every 10,00 kms and if Turbo change oil every five.

Mind you our 2003 Disco has a 20,000 kms service interval and I still get it done every 10,000 if we use it off road a fair bit (if hard top work, I leave it to 20,000....

how can oil cause a head gasket leak O_O

X2... Your oil isn't going to effect the sealing of your head gasket.

Castrol RX super
Penrite HPR Diesel.

The best advice in relation to engine oil is use quality and change frequently. I change my oil after a couple of comps or maybe even one comp if i cained it big time for a long time.
When you think of the job your engine oil does you'll realise it is the single most important factor in engine longevitey. It does alot of work. engine oil coolers and oil changes WILL increase engine life.
If you're puzzing around town 5k's. Constant light duty highway K's then every ten is fine. If you're comping then more often.

With a diesel the oil is contaminated much more significantly when the enghine is not up to operating temp due to the rings not sealing as efficiently etc.

Short trips are the death of a diesel and if your vehicle only does short around town work i would consider changing the oil more often than 5k.s

mostly long distance/highway work you can probably safely change the oil closer to 7.5thousand, easily 10thousand on a direct injected engine.

Shadow wrote: With a diesel the oil is contaminated much more significantly when the enghine is not up to operating temp due to the rings not sealing as efficiently etc.

Short trips are the death of a diesel and if your vehicle only does short around town work i would consider changing the oil more often than 5k.s

mostly long distance/highway work you can probably safely change the oil closer to 7.5thousand, easily 10thousand on a direct injected engine.

You can safely change the oil when ever you want!
I'm very well aware of the in's and out's of the operation of a diesel engine and the job that oil performs in an engine. If you want to change your oil every 7.5 thou k's then go for it.. as i said the more frequent the better.. But wether or not it is an advantage or a waste of money is another question.
Persoinally i change mine on average every 1500km. I do around 6500 to 7500 k's a year in the cruiser and change the oil about 6 times a year. I have my own workshop. I get sponsored for oil. Filters are 20 bucks.
If you were to pay full retail every oil change and were out of pocket 150 bucks or more then it's a different story. Normal round town stuff i'd argue 5thou is fine. If you were doing constant cold trips and never really getting to operating temperature then yes, change it much more frequently, and also question the need for a diesel engine!.
Oils now are far superior to ten or even five years ago. If your oil is ratters after 5 thousand k of "Normal" driving then i reckon the oil manufacturer would like to know about it!

Inside motors espically old ones like my BJ40, you get a build up of carbon deposits. I believe that old BJ had a fair bit of this helping to seal the head gasket. When a new ubeaut oil with high detergents was added it effectively removed all the old deposits which allow pressure from the cylinders to escape into the cooling system, which let the motor get to hot and then bang it all went pear shaped......

I am not a mechanic, but am usually fairly logical in my thinking and I was wondering what had caused the shorty to do a head when the radiator was fine and there were no problems with the motor when I lent the vehicle to him. I do not believed he abused it but then I found out he had swapped oils not long before it cooked itself. So.....

mud guts wrote:TRY SOME ANGLOMOIL

I use the Anglomoil in my criuser and in my lux.

stinger wrote:Inside motors espically old ones like my BJ40, you get a build up of carbon deposits. I believe that old BJ had a fair bit of this helping to seal the head gasket. When a new ubeaut oil with high detergents was added it effectively removed all the old deposits which allow pressure from the cylinders to escape into the cooling system, which let the motor get to hot and then bang it all went pear shaped......

So the carbon was helping the headgasket seal. So what your saying is the headgasket was already not sealing and the carbon was doing the sealing.
A headgasket will not seal forever. Every headgasket will let go at some stage. There needs to be no other explanation for it other than it has been doing its job! Everytime the temperature of your engine alters (during warm up and cooldown) the cylinder head and block expand and contract at different rates. This means the head is moving on the headgasket everytime. Aside from that every time the head expands it increases the pressure on the head bolts. This eventually leads to the head bolts lossing a slight amount of tension. Once they lose tension the clamping pressure is reduced which increases the effect of the movent during expansion and contraction. The end result is your headgasket no longer seals. If you are not vigilant enough in watching the temperature gauge on the vehicle or notice any coolant loss then you cook your engine!
Carbon build up in the engine would be extremely minimal if you were using a quality oil in the first place.

I use CAT Diesel engine oil in everything, including my 91 mazda astina, 86 Diesel 4runner and my turbo diesel BJ74. Its really good oil, Then at work we have access to a oil sampling program that tells you what metals are in the used oil, This is really helpful for diagnosing engine problems

edited

Yeah i do too... The perks of working at a cat dealer, I also use cat oil filters

In the mighty 2L I use Penrite hpr Diesal and ryco z9's about every 7500 (I do about 950 kilomters a week on average) with most runs being about an hour .. so the motor gets up to full temp and stays there for a signifagant time ..

i use castrol GTX diesel in my 1HZ. and it seems to do the job well.

How much is all the CAT gear worth? Is it REAALY that much better?

Would it be suitable in a smaller diesel (2h) that doesn't do alot of long-haul work? I would have thought the oil would be desiged with intertate semi-s in mind.

edited.