Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi All,

I'm after some advice on what type of lift I should put in my 84 FJ40. It's currently running 32 x 11.5 but I'm after a little more clearance for off road. It's not a daily driver, it's just for messing about in the mud/sand on a weekend. I'm running a stock 2f on dual fuel, I usually run on petrol off road for a bit of extra power. I'd like to keep the COG as low as possible and have as much articulation as possible. Preference would be 35' x 12.5'. I've read that to improve stability on a lifted 40 you can reduce the backspacing from 3.5" to 2". At the moment I'm leaning towards a 2" body lift as this will only lift the tin and should keep the COG lower than a spring lift. Not really sure which way to go?? I've read lots of posts on 2.5"/4" spring lifts and some of the guys on IH8MUD seem to favor spring lifts over body lifts? Not sure why as I would have thought the COG would be lower on the body lift as the heavy bits are only lifted by the increased tyre radius? I'm not game for a SOA quite yet. Maybe the answer isn't one or the other? could go 2.5" spring with 1"body? Not sure if this would run 35 x 12.5. What would everyone suggest? I'm not sure I'm currently running totally stock springs at the mo (they look slightly different than my 74 40 but the truck is 10 years newer ). I have 8 leaves front / 6 on the back? Is this the norm?

The guy in the 4x4 shop has advised that 35" will increase my articulation as they will bend the springs more? Does anyone have experience with this?

What's everyone's thoughts? Cheers, Phil

If the suspension does not flex as much/uncomfortable for u, u should get the 2"suspension lift. The new springs will flex way better and improve ride quality. The body lift is the cheaper option about 1/3 the price of a suspension setup.
cheers

Not too fussed about comfort. Want as much flex as poss to keep the wheels on the ground as I'm currently running open diffs. Like to play on rocks/trees and the missus will complain if I put it on it's side so keeping the COG low is a priority. I also put a leaf sprung landy on it's side a few years ago playing in a quarry. I've been quoted $1050 for a body lift from Opposite Lock. Cost is a factor but performance is my main driver.

I wouldn't pay over $150 for bodylift materials


If you are willing to do it yaself you will save heaps. Damn, how many hours are they quoting to fit it, sheez.

I know the guard mounts have to be lengthened but thats a job to be done over few beers.

I am shocked that someone wants $1000 to fit it

You can run 35x12.5x15 with no body or suspension lift i do.

There is a little work involved but it is possible and no great expence.





Much better in my opinion to keep the center of gravity as low as posible

Hi Matt,

It's funny that you should reply as I was looking at your rig in September's Australian 4wd last night and thinking to myself that from the photo it doesn't look like you have any lift and yet your running the exact tyre size I would like. My preference would be no lift as I want the clearance but also want to keep my low COG. Also my rig only clears my garage door by 0.5 inch. It's currently a hard top which will be off as soon as I can find secondhand half doors, a roll bar and a good cond soft top but it's going to be very tight. If needed I will remove/masacre the garage door!

What do you need to do? (apart from cut back/move the guards)?

Not sure whether I'll do it myself or get the shop to do it. I don't have many tools + I work way too many hours.

I reckon you definately have the solution I'm looking for. After seeing your rig I also posted this on 3rdRock to see if anyone suggested 35 with no lift.

Any advice you can give me will be much appreciated. (BTW Thanks for the pics)

Do you know anyone who has decreased the backspacing on their wheels? Though if I'm not lifting it this will be much less of an issue as the extra width of rim/tyre should compensate for the extra 1.5 inches of height.

Have the 35' increased your articulation by increasing leverage on the springs?

Cheers,

Phil
Phil

why dont you chop the rear a bit, buy/make extended shackles and call it a day?
or..
go SPOA then remove some leaves.

I havent seen very many modified 40s in WA, so get into it!
all i see are stock rusty troopies, and cowboy mudflap special fj45s.

If I do the body lift or as Matt suggests mod the rig to run 35's with no lift what kind of improvement in articulation might I expect with the increased tyre size & weight ? the dude at the shop reckons it will improve things heaps.

Also happy to hear about the pros and cons of running 35's on a 40. As it's not a daily drive I'm not too concerned with reduced breaking and increased steering loads but I would be keen to hear anyone's opinions on what affects the incresed tyre size will have on breaking s&it while wheelin. I used to run an old miitary lightweight landrover and I was forever breaking drive shafts so if it's going to mean I spend more time fixin it than wheelin I could be pursuaded to leave the rig well alone. As I've no lockers I tend to over compensate with power on the steep bits.

Any advice will be gratefully received.

BTW how do I know if the rig has a spring lift? Might seem like a stupid question but it's at least 1.5" higher than my last rig (74' 40). Not sure if this was just saggy springs on the old rig. Both run 32's. I'll put up some photos shortly.

Cheers,

Phil

Cheers,

Phil

Photos..... lifted or stock springs??? Any ideas? (sorry about the resolution)