Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Its come time for some new tyres on my 91 solid axle lux, and ive got the cash for a set of mtr 35's, im just not sure if my truck has enough lift to fit them under the guards. Has anyone in this forum got a styleside solid front hilux with 35's and if so how much lift have u got? currently ive got extended shakles and 2 inch body lift (shakles lifted it 2 inches). Photos of your lux's and some info on your lifts would be awesome.

You really need to move your front diff forward at least 37mm to have proper wheel travel with 35s,i have a 2inch body lift and a 2 inch suspension lift and front extended shackles and the 35s scrubbed real bad,moved front diff forward by redrilling spring perches and presto.

1.5" body, 2" shackle, 2" spring.......it still rubs a bit on the rear
part of the wheelarches, but I can live with that.

I know ifs rears on the front will move the front diff forward, will they offer any additional height over standard front springs? or are they longer than standard solid axle front springs?

u putt the std rears in the f not the ifs rears they would be to long for the f i had 35s with std springs 2 inc shackls and 2 inc body with the f spring perchers re driled and no rubing at all

ok easy as. anyone with anymore pics? on the same subject with the 35's on a 15x8 was the track to skinny for the amount of lift? did it become dangerously close to rollovers when pussing it? or did u use cut and flipped rims or wheel spacers?

what engines/modifications are people running to push the 35's? ive been told that if i wanna put 33's on mine i need a turbo or sumthing.

crack wrote:what engines/modifications are people running to push the 35's? ive been told that if i wanna put 33's on mine i need a turbo or sumthing.

i have 33's on my hilux 2L 2.4L deisel 4.5's diffs it goes ok once you get up to speed if you get up to speed(its a little deisel is not going to win a marathons)

diff gears or transfer case gears wil help push 33's
i spose you could run it with no gears or anything it just will minimize torque
some good engine modifications would be extractors straight thru exhaust and block rebuilds etc. and turbo if you had enough $$$.

ive got extractors and 2" exhust following the old exhust path. wat are the diff ratios on a 2.8d 92 model lux? and wat would new ones be worth? i m coming up for new tyres, i would like 33's but you can only do wat u can do.

sorry bout jacking thread

I added another 4 cylinders, extractors and fuel injection. Turns 35's ok.

I have a sytle side (bobbed) lux running 35's.

Rear: Got 2" body lift, 2"ext shackles & 2" lift blocks in the rear under std Bravo springs with leaf removed to gain flex but without moving the diff position so not to scrub the rear arches on the style side tub. The 35's do just (by about 10mm max) clear the rear arches at full compression but i have had to remove the plastic lining from in the rear arches and no mud flaps. It's that tight. i also run 1.25" custom offset 15x8 mechanical beadlocks to clear chassis at full compression and increase track width but still being able to tuck the wheel inside the arch.

Front: Obviously still 2"BL. Got 2" lifted springs in std position because i haven't had time to move the diff fwd. Scrubbed out real bad and folded the bottom rear of the gaurds on first outting/test run. Have std rears going in over the holidays with ext banana shackles and castor correction wedges to avoid having to go dropped front hangars, + cross over steer going in ASAP.

FYI - have a 22r naturally aspirated again with EFI in the shed also going on soon... running std gearbox and tnf gears with 4.88 diffs. Real sluggish up to speed but fine when up there - max speed possible though is100km/h. Puts speedo out about 20%.

Hope that helps

i also have style side lux with 2" body lift, and 2" suspension, running 35's on 15X10's and rear seems to be fine for now til we get some flex happening but front rubs hardcore when flexing and turning offroad. ill be moving diff forward 30mm over christmas and maybe massaging the rear of the wheel arch just a tad, (not butchering it!)

ok well i think i've decided what im going to do: take the rear leaves out put them up front (already a 5 leaf pack), put in some front diff relocation plates, get a set of ifs rears and put them in the back, lop the back shakle mounts off and move them forward for a better shakle angle, get 4.88 ratios for the diffs. now just gotta start getting the parts, does anyone know how much lift is achieved by putting rear springs in the front?

tommyk wrote:ok well i think i've decided what im going to do: take the rear leaves out put them up front (already a 5 leaf pack), put in some front diff relocation plates, get a set of ifs rears and put them in the back, lop the back shakle mounts off and move them forward for a better shakle angle, get 4.88 ratios for the diffs. now just gotta start getting the parts, does anyone know how much lift is achieved by putting rear springs in the front?

Dont worry about relocation plates - just drill one of the perches to match the pre-drilled one. But with RUF i think further fwd movement isn't necessary - but whatever rocks your boat... You will also need to either cut and weld in dropped front hangars or use castor wedges to correct pinion angle. IFS in the rears move the rear diff back approx 50mm, if your keeping the tub this will mean the 35 WILL NOT fit in the wheel arches. Even 33's will foul. Why lop shackle mounts? Never heard of this happeneing and seems pointless 4.88's will be good.

Mine running RUF, ext shackles, dropped hangers with 36" Simex on 15x10's rubs. Bashed and trimmed inner guards still rubs a little.

3" wheel spacers fixed that pretty well though.

you cut the back shakle mounts off and relocate them so you can run extended shakles but still keep a better shakle angle, gives more flex

flynn has RUF extended shackles and dropped crossmember and it fits 35s on 15x10s no rubbage.

i'm running std rear springs up front, extended shackles, dropped front hanger, and axle relocation plate (moved the diff one inch further forward)

tozook wrote:i'm running std rear springs up front, extended shackles, dropped front hanger, and axle relocation plate (moved the diff one inch further forward)

one inch looks like 4 or so inches

its aford not a nissan wrote:

tozook wrote:i'm running std rear springs up front, extended shackles, dropped front hanger, and axle relocation plate (moved the diff one inch further forward)

one inch looks like 4 or so inches

it has std rear springs up front aswell

tozook wrote:

its aford not a nissan wrote:

tozook wrote:i'm running std rear springs up front, extended shackles, dropped front hanger, and axle relocation plate (moved the diff one inch further forward)

one inch looks like 4 or so inches

it has std rear springs up front aswell

ok sry missed that ,read too fast

I have a 3" body lift and 3" suspension lift. My 35's rub pretty bad. Time to get out the grinder

BJ just go FBH (F'in big hammer) worked ok 4 me


That ain't me in the pic 2.5 cab i think parabolic springs and diff mount plates are drilled as far back as you can go want to go RUF that'll take it foward a bit more which sould give it heaps they only just hit after i attacked it with the FBH

Sic Lux wrote:BJ just go FBH (F'in big hammer) worked ok 4 me


That ain't me in the pic 2.5 cab i think parabolic springs and diff mount plates are drilled as far back as you can go want to go RUF that'll take it foward a bit more which sould give it heaps they only just hit after i attacked it with the FBH

Yeh, but I cant bash in my fibreglass guards with a hammer.

no 35's for me.im poor n have 32's.with a 2"b/l and 2" suspension lift it still scrubbed the front hard before i chopped it.With the standard 15x7s it was fine,with the set we had floatin around n flipped for free it now hits when turning,so i understand you fellas running a good set of 15x8's or 10's would rub pretty good.Just reading some of you saying you redrilled the perches?how much do you gain?n what else changes?im guessing the shock tower would have to move and i have a tailshaft 1" spacer if needed.any info would be great.

Grinder and the main bit mine hit are the seem in the body thats the bit that i hit back. Where'd you get the F/glass guards through. I'll try get a pic of the guards toomorow

yeah they will fit.
37's with 4" lift (this has the axle moves 3" forward but u shouldnt have to... batcho had a smilar set up

i just fitted a custom lift block 25mm thick with a 30mm offset hole to move the diff forward. (axle relocation plate and lift bolck in 1) and with a 2" suspension lift and 2" body lift i can easily clear my 35's on 15x10 rims. clears by a good 25-30mm on full lock. and thats no trimming of the guard at all.

Is that full lock flexed or full lock on flat ground.