Outer Limits 4x4 Board

What mods are needed to fit 35" tyres? would a 2" dobinson suspension lift (more like 3" i have been told) and a 2" body lift be fine on a SWB maverick. or what would u be able to fit bigger than 33" tyres.

It would be a squeeze.

Tight spot would be full compression in the rear as the shorter shockies would make the rear tuck up higher in the wheel arch.

Probably wont be able to run the standard mudflaps.

Space the front rad arm forward 12-15mm. Front should be OK then as it doesn't flex much anyway.

what kind of suspension lift would you need? also would u have to cut the guards or anything like that, becasue i dont want to do that. also what about changing the joint of things such as uni's or others? or the addition of asjustable pan hard rods. casue i dont want to do all that. just the big tyres with the littlest work possible.

tHEY WILL GO ON WITH THE MODS YOU HAVE LISTED THEY JUST MIGHT RUB A LITTLE IN EXTREME SITUATIONS. YOU ALSO WONT BE ABLE TO RUN THE MUD FLAPS THEY WILL BE TORN OFF.

hottiemonster wrote:what kind of suspension lift would you need? also would u have to cut the guards or anything like that, becasue i dont want to do that. also what about changing the joint of things such as uni's or others? or the addition of asjustable pan hard rods. casue i dont want to do all that. just the big tyres with the littlest work possible.

I run a 4" Dobinson lift (which is more like a 5"+ lift) with 40mm body and I can easily run 36 Swampers.

I'd say a 4-5" lift with no body would be fine.

No cutting necessary if you space the rad arms. The rear mudflaps will rub on the tyre tread but clear OK if you remove them... or not even be an issue if you do a 1/4 chop.

4-5" in a shortie would need the rear driveshaft to be addressed as it is getting kinda steep and you would probably get some nasty vibes.

In my opinion anything 4"+ needs adjustable panhards to centre the axles. You can get away with factory panhards with 4" but it is marginal. Factory ones are pretty piss-weak as well.

i have 6" spring lift, and with all the flex from the rear, the 33x12.5 MTRs only just rub, i have had to trim flares and remove mud flars to tlear them at full stuff.

bit of lateral thinking, move the axles a bit, and 37"s will fit with standard suspension, no body lift., the quarter panels cut off, and a tiny bit of trimming.

How cool would that look

What about the rear at ful flex though? My 31s were rubbing on the inside of the wheel arch with stock suspension.

if you move the axle back a bit the tyre sits in a squarer part of the inner guard and has more room, yours would have seemed worse than it was too, cause the tyre would have been rubbing on the seat belt bolt. bit of extended bumpstop action helps too.

see i dont really want to move the axles and trim the guards casue that becomes costly? but you wouldnt have to do much trimming for 35's though with just 3" suspension?

I have just put 35 inch claws on the Maverick LWB. Had to heat the front of the rear flares out and front mud flaps back to clear on travel and turning. Mine has a 4 inch lift and only rubs a little on the inside on the rear - but i also have adjusted the rear panard rod as well.

Hope i helps

I would put the body lift in as well as the mild suspension lift. Gives everything some breathing space, and if in the future you use the rig on the tougher trails you can mod progressively from there. I think it's important to do everything right in the first place, but if it's a daily driver, you might not be able to have the rig off the road for weeks at a time for extensive mods. Progressive.

I fitted up my 37"s yesty no probs but i didnt try flexin it


2"Body 3,1/2 spring lift cut rear quarts front diff moved forward 12mm llllllllllloooooooooooookkkkeddd FFFFFFFFAAAAAAATTTTTTT

A1MAV wrote:I fitted up my 37"s yesty llllllllllloooooooooooookkkkeddd FFFFFFFFAAAAAAATTTTTTT

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