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Most of them are just dilute phosphoric acid. In a chemical sense, they definitely work, no question. In practice, they may not get it all.
I think this one is made from tannic acid, which is used to tan leather and stain wood. But I am not aware of any reason why it would be any better than phosphoric acid of the same acidity.
Personally I really like the phosphoric acid based rust convertors and have used them to good effect many times.
For best effect you should physically remove as much rust as possible (wire brush, etc) first, and also soak the lot in water before applying the rust convertor.
Be aware that they will not convert the metal back into a form that is capable of loadbearing. Rust is still rust, and perforations in it, along with thinning of the surrounding metal will still reduce the strength of the area. Only suitable for mild surface rust on things like the chassis, anything more significant should be cut out and replaced.
That chassis gusset area shoud be replaced if you intend using the towing hook. (First 3 pics)
Don't appear to be looking at the same side for comparison in your "before and after"....
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
DAMKIA wrote:Be aware that they will not convert the metal back into a form that is capable of loadbearing. Rust is still rust, and perforations in it, along with thinning of the surrounding metal will still reduce the strength of the area. Only suitable for mild surface rust on things like the chassis, anything more significant should be cut out and replaced.
That chassis gusset area shoud be replaced if you intend using the towing hook. (First 3 pics)
Don't appear to be looking at the same side for comparison in your "before and after"....
this is for mild surface rust on the chassis only.. i wire brushed on the left side prior to application. i should of (but probably didnt) wire brush the other side.. either way its a better base for rustkill or the like.. its my intention to try and get this stuff inside and on as much chassis as I can access without taking the body off, i'll be doing the same with rust kill after its dried..
yeh i will definately be replacing teh chassis gussets on the front along with the pto winch and brace..
no they are not the same side, the before shots are an indication of the current state of rust..
wherever you get that stuff you need to recoat the area with paint.
If its the same as othjer rust converters, It will destroy any paint work it comes in contact with, which could lead to more problems than you think your solving.
Say you strip all the paint halfway down your chassis rail where you cant get into cause its boxed (but the fertan ran down to) then you now have a piece of chassis that is no longer protected and will probably rust out much sooner than it would have.
