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Rust repair suggestion needed

Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:33 pm
by Jaffa
I am getting my LWB ready for roadworthy, I have "some" (lots) rust in the back of the car, around where the fuel filler goes through the floor.

I dont want to have to pull the fuel tank out and trailer it somewhere to get new metal welded in, money is short at the moment.

The only idea I can come up is cutting the rust out and replacing it with sheet metal that is riveted in and all the seams puttied/bogged/siliconed to seal it completely, I cant find anything that says you can or cant rivet metal in. Do you think this will be suitable?

If anyone has any better ideas or if you think mine is bad please let me know.

Cheers,
Brendan

Here's a pic that shows the rust and some old bog
Image

Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:47 pm
by sierrajim
Bog, tin, fibreglass whatever then use stoneguard inside and out (including the surrounding areas) then no one will tell it was ever done.

Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:55 pm
by zookpower1
i would cut it out then put a plate over it then get some stoneguard and do both sides with the black c*#p

Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 10:55 pm
by fool_injected
CUT AND PLATE IT
Do it properly now and it wont come back and bite ya later
Surely you know somebody who would swing the welder for a slab

Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:14 pm
by Jaffa
This may be a stupid question, but what is so much better about it being welded in compared to riveted fool_injected?

Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:18 pm
by fool_injected
Structural integrity
Quality of workmanship
Looks better

It would take just as long to rivet as to weld
Looking at the pict the seam is fairly rusted too so there is not much to rivet to

Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:21 am
by Jaffa
I understand what you mean, but I think I will go with riveting, I can always drill the rivets out again later if it not ok, it is behind a cover so looks dont matter.

It would actually take a hell of alot longer to weld, to do it safely I would have to remove the fuel tank.

Thanks for your advice anyway fool_injected

Brendan

Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 10:07 am
by Pinball
Straining brain, but idon't think you'd have to drop the tank, just drain the fuel, fill with water and weld.

Spock

Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 11:12 pm
by suz_rolly
just remember people we are talking to what looks like a nissan owner :finger: no patciance nor time

dude spend the time do it right a riveted pannel may not pass DOT anyhow your choice right way or easy way

Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 11:55 pm
by Jaffa
I chose the easy way, took about 2 hours and cost nothing, instead of days and hundreds. The reason I have the suzuki is as a fun budget car..... and the reason I have the Patrol is cause I'd go insane driving a gutless 1litre zook every day. :D
Heres what I looks like now, I cut the rust out and riveted in a new piece of steel, used rust converter on the surface rust, stone guarded and painted.

Image

Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2007 9:00 pm
by albey
body swap is easy too just did it. turned a n\t into a w\t in two days
dash,wires,motor,chassis,seats. nothing bodge