Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ok i've been talking to some people running dual fuel of late and it seems most run about half a tank of petrol to every full tank of gas (tanks about same size).

What I'm wondering is what would be required to run gas all the time and have small emergency petrol tanks as reserves when cant get gas

Would you need head work? Valves/ hardened seats? If you set it all up to run well on gas as the primary fuel (ie timing, different plugs, settings etc) would it run well on fuel. Could it be ideal for gas and 10% less power for petrol, like dual fuel reversed?

I'm thinkin of buyin a rangie and running gas the whole time it's on road (cheaper ) but having 30 litre reserve petrol tanks on the both sides of the car for long off road jaunts. That would also let me take 60l gas + 60l petrol giving a good touring range.

Thoughts anyone, where are the gas gurus Cheers

I have a Rangie on dual fuel, and find my economy is about what you say, ie. 1/2 tank of petrol travels as far as full tank of gas.
I run mine on gas all the time, which I hope isn't hurting it, because I was told that the alloy Rover motors already have hardened valve seats... I don't think it's good for the carby though as the gas dries out the seals. I could be very wrong though...

If you get your vehicle properly tuned to run on gas, it would ping like nobodies business when running on petrol, as gas is 100+ octane and petrol is 95 or so, wouldn't it?

Randal

BURRRRRRP not anymore

add a flashlube or similar upper cylinder lubricant system, you might need to run petrol to start up in cold weather and it's good for the carb(s) to see some petrol evey now and again just to keep it all moist and happy, there are long fractions in petrol that go hard when everything else evaporates and block up jets etc if the carbs are left to dry out.

cheers

Brian

I'll generally start and warm mine up on petrol then switch to gas, and then when I get near home I'll switch back to petrol, otherwise I just leave it on gas. This is on a Commo motor and i havent had any probs with valve etc.

John

99% of jap motors have the stallite valve ( hardened valves & seats) setup from factory, as do most engines that are fitted with an alloy head these days. Cost to "overhaul" a castiron head IE a holden V8 head should be around the $500 mark for both heads.

Straight LPG engines are far more fuel efficient than duel setups. The traditional carby on duel fuel setups restricts the lpg side of the equasion severly.
point of interest... a 81mod 351 ford fairlane running straight lpg is currently returning figures of 33 mpg... local LPG experts private vehicle fitted with a lpg carby only!

Flashlube was originally designed for castiron heads but has addapted well to the alloy head setups, a product with a small cost and a huge benifit.

Ideal setup would be sole LPG but many servos in the outback regions of AU dont carry LPG so if your heading out that way forget it but if your intended use is in areas with excelent supply of lpg ....what are you waiting for ??????

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hlight=lpg

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hlight=lpg

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hlight=lpg

and a few links I got from the "search" button !!

with twin sill tanks on a rangie you should be able to store 110 litres of fuel easily.
add 70 litres lpg under rear and 60litres inside back
=sweet!!

AMV had a rangie in recently that had the backseat removed and one large tank installed (about 90 litres?) with standard petroltank under.


many options.

modman.

Thanks

V8 patrol I'd already read those threads but they didn't really answer my questions Can the lpg carby run petrol at all? I'm not familiar with them. Could I set it up to run lpg all the time on road + what i can carry offroad then run petrol when I'm out of gas?

I got ya pm but the damn thing wont reply !....



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so i coppied and pasted the response her 4 ya

The "carby" I mentioned was for sole LPG use only.
The drawback if you need to run the duel fuel setup is the carby, it simply doesnt allow the correct air/fuel flow requirements for lpg...let face it ...it was designed for petrol and thats where the problem is.
It's alot like 4wd's.... we all want an exteame off roader but need a street stable rig too .... obviuosly the 2 cant be done without compromise, its the same with fuel...unless you go sole LPG then the system is a compromise.
The lpg is restricted due to the petrol side of things and the petrol also suffers due to the lpg add ons.
Best thing to do is .....
1/ decide on duel fuel, or sole LPG, or sole petrol
2/ look at fuel requirements, IE the outback carrys stuff all lpg ( its getting better tho)
3/ cost of conversion compared to petrol price... If you are getting 30 mpg out of petrol then it WILL take 4 years before the lpg system is paid for and any savings are to be had.... most ppl sell there rigs b4 that !!
4/ look at the papers/mags, Trading post.. parts peddler... local papers etc, these will give you an idea of prices the system is worth 2nd hand .... remember you may want to sell it seperate from the 4x4 later on.
5/ Placement of the tank or tanks, these can create issues with ground clearence, suspension, and even impact on the zorst system, internal layout ( seats).
6/ If possiable search out a 2nd hand setup, usually less than 1/2 the price of a new system and in some cases still with a warranty attached.

best way is obviously to do as much of the work as possiable, that will depend on your ability mechanically and your "have a go" attitude

if ya get stuck........................................ ASK

kingy

Cheers that's what I was after, will go dual fuel I think should recoup costs fairly quickly on a rangie

I got your pm 4 times BTW