80 series rear axle oil leak

[shanegtr]

Hi guys, just removed my passanger side rear wheel today to fix a tyre and noticed that the brake disc had oil on it. Having a bit of a look around and a sniff of the oil its obvious its diff oil. I guess I'll have to replace the axle seal, but it looks like its also gone through the wheel bearings. couple of things I need to know:
1-Having a look at the manual it seems that the bearings have a funny lock nut with a special tool used to undo/tighten. Is this tool really required or can you get away with it?
2-Anyone know what size seals and what bearings are required? Once I start this job I dont have a car to run to the shops to get spares so I require all the parts before starting
3- Regarding the drivers side seal - Is it possible to change the axle seal without removing the hub?

Cheers

[DGS4WD]

Just rebuilt my rear end of my 80series. Like you, i discovered diff oil spraying up into my wheel guards. Diff oil leaks past the inner axle seal into your wheel bearings and from there either though the visible outer hub seal or behind the inner seal leaking onto your handbrake shoes and rear brake pads.
This is what i did and recommend - the full job. Buy a rear wheel bearing overhaul kit (or 2 to do the other side aswell) from bursons. Just looking at the receipt now, retail per side is $44.95, trade price being $34.40, part number 3021. The only other thing you will need is the actual inner axle seals which you can get from Toyota as they dont come with the kit from bursons. Part number "SEAL RR FJ7901", $10each.
You CAN get away with not purchasing any special tools, just have a couple of screwdrivers handy for leavering purposes.
Not recommended way - You can only just change the leaking seal by removing the 6 nuts, washers, cone washers & pulling out the axle.
Hold this helps.

[shanegtr]

For the price of the bearings nowdays its hardly worth repacking them anymore. Any idea what size that inner oil seal was? I should be able to get em a bit cheaper than toyota from the local bearing joint

[shanegtr]

Whoops, double post

[shanegtr]

thanks for that part number just have to wait for the parts to come from Perth now By the way I got the inner seals for $1.35 each

[Red Rover]

The only other tip I would add is have an impact screwdriver. They are invaluable for this job as the phillip head screws (these srews secure the hold the preload plate for the wheel bearing) can get extremely tight and with a normal screw driver will be frustrating....................found this out the hard way. Put the impact screwdriver onto it, bang it with a hammer and it will be loose. Only a tip, thought it might help

[Bluey]

when you go to remove the axle, use 2 m8 bolts in the holes provided in the axle flange (M8x1.25). loosen off the nuts on the 6 studs to end of the thread but leave on, then tighten the 2 m8 bolts in turn and the cone washers will pop out. much better than bashing the axle flange with a big hammer.

the wheel bearing nut has 3 holes set around it (8mm) that you can get a pair of long nose pliers onto to tighten/loosen. there is also 3 studs (big fat ones though) that you can use your hands to tighten/loosen when it has freed up a bit.

these wheel bearing nuts are also used on the 60 73 75 and 80 series rear axles. what i did is bought one from a wreckers (well he actually just gave it to me) and modified it so can use it to tighten the wheel bearing nut. i drilled out 3 of the holes and tapped them to M8x1.25, welded a plate to one side with a big bolt through it with a 19mm head. now i screw 3 m8x50 bolts into the 3 holes i mentioned above, and use a socket to tighten/loosen the bearing nut. beauty is can also use torque wench to get correct torque. (have pics too of this adapter but can't get it on photobucket it yet)


hope this long winded story helps
Bluey

[shanegtr]

Yep, all that info if helpfull, thanks guys. Just gotta wait until my parts arrive now.