Page 1 of 1

2H injector pump

Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 8:35 am
by brighty
Ok all you guru's......

My truck has been blowing a bit of black smoke for a while, just never had time or $$$ to fix it. It now seems to be getting worse and is quite noticable, even during the daytime it can be clearly seen whilst driving. I wouldn't say I give it to it, but I certainly don't drive like grandma either.

The temp starts to rise a bit when climbing hills on the freeway to a point where I got to back off and coast on the down hill runs to get it to cool back down. I know all the air intake and exhaust is clear and functioning perfectly too.

Now I did have a diesel mechanic mate do my engine rebuild 3yrs ago and I can definitely trust his workmanship. We have triple checked the timing and valve clearances(while hot) and all seems perfect. I also had the injectors and injector pump rebuilt then too by a diesel injector shop costing around the $1500 mark.... had to put a new cam in and a few other bits and pieces as well.

Ever since about 3mths after whole thing was rebuilt and back on the road, I noticed a weeping of oil from a screw on the side of the injector pump. I thought nothing too much of it and just degreased it off every 3-6mths. I'm now wondering if that is where the problem lies???

Can anyone shed some light onto what may be causing:
1. the weeping of oil.
2. the excessive black smoke(I'm gessing over fuelling but no idea on how to adjust.)

Some pics of the oil weep on the side of the injector pump.
Image
Image
And the engine bay...
Image

Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:19 am
by Ruffy
Hey brighty, Looks like the gasket between the injector pump housing is leaking oil. Bummer.

The over fueling problem could be either the EDIC motor or the EDIC control relay.
The EDIC motor is the motor that bolts onto the inlet manfold with the rod connected to the injector pump. It has three positions. Off, which pushes the rod towards the front of the car (i think), Run which allows the linkage to 'Float' in the middle and start which pulls the linkage backwards. What mine does sometimes in get stuck in the start position which gives you a full rich scenario.
Several causes,
1. the motor must have a good earth otherwise it can wind itself in try to earth through the wrong circuit. (least likely but have seen it)
2. The contacts in the EDIC motor are worn or dirty. EDIC motor is easily removed, dismantled and cleaned if you have a little 'mechanical nouse'
3. The EDIC control relay (in the drivers kick panel) has poor contact in the mini relays interanally. This can also be dismantled and inspected with a little 'electrical nouse'.
Good luck.
Dan

Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 7:56 am
by brighty
any more info kids???? :idea:

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:43 am
by Tapage
I would start seeking for EGT .. with a pyro, if you see much black smoke and your EGT raising definately a lots fo diesel .. turn it down a bit and test agian until you have it under 1200F all the time ..

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:35 am
by Dzltec
The oil leaks are present for 2 reasons, either the bolt is not tight or there is no seal behind the bolt head. Behind the cover is a lot of splash oil.

Your smoke problem is either too much fuel or not enough air. Look at all the things that do this, you will fix your problem, start with the easiest first.


Andy

Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 9:21 am
by brighty
Dzltec wrote:The oil leaks are present for 2 reasons, either the bolt is not tight or there is no seal behind the bolt head. Behind the cover is a lot of splash oil.

Your smoke problem is either too much fuel or not enough air. Look at all the things that do this, you will fix your problem, start with the easiest first.


Andy
Andy,

I have since not bothered with it until you replied to his as I coulnd't work out the fix!!!

Now, I know the air intake is fine... no blockages and new OE air filter was fitted. Now the seal behind that bolt was fine... but I replaced it anyway... and renewed the gasket behind that inspection plate too.... but still seems to be leaking there for some reason... thats what I still can't work out why!!!! Don't really have the $$$ to be putting it into a workshop for them to "try" to diagnose the problem.... could take for ever and lots of dollars when they aren't fixing the right thing each time.

I have also played with the amount of fuel being delivered from the inj pump..... but when I played with that, sure there was les black somoke but also noticably less power too... and after all the old 2H aint got that much power to start with either!!!

Thats where I'm at with it!!! :roll:

Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 9:06 pm
by Shadow
To eliminate the edic as the source of the problem, knock the rod that connects the edic to the pump off, will just pop off at both ends if you hit it upwards.

If its cold, take the rod off after you have started the engine, as without that rod the EDIC wont put the pump into overfuel and starting could be harder.

Also, you wont be able to stop the engine, so either put the rod back on and then turn it off, or just manually stop the engine by pushing on the fuel control lever on the pump. Push it towards the radiator to stop the engine.


If thats not your problem, then, how long since injector rebuild? unfortunately it gets dear from here :(

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:07 am
by brighty
Shadow wrote:To eliminate the edic as the source of the problem, knock the rod that connects the edic to the pump off, will just pop off at both ends if you hit it upwards.

If its cold, take the rod off after you have started the engine, as without that rod the EDIC wont put the pump into overfuel and starting could be harder.

Also, you wont be able to stop the engine, so either put the rod back on and then turn it off, or just manually stop the engine by pushing on the fuel control lever on the pump. Push it towards the radiator to stop the engine.


If thats not your problem, then, how long since injector rebuild? unfortunately it gets dear from here :(
I know the EDIC was working properly last time I checked, didn't seem to be getting stuck in the over fuel position.
The Inj pump was rebuilt when the engine was done about 3yrs ago(I know... should have fixed it straight away.. :roll: ) but by the time I had it rebuilt and then got the engine up and going... it was about 4-5months later.... not like I could take it back and say "hey you didn't do this properly" by then.... NOT going to be happy if I have to get that rebuilt again!!!! :bad-words:

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:33 am
by bj on roids
is there a crack on it? :?

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:47 pm
by brighty
bj on roids wrote:is there a crack on it? :?
Crack on which part???

Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 10:00 pm
by WA60
Hiya fellas.
Ive got the same pump in my HJ61 2H with an after market turbo. Can anyone tell me how to tweak down the fuelling abit. Its black smoking etc and ive done all the usual (injectors etc)
Is it that bolt inside the nut above that leaking screw?? If not whats that :D
Everything else is working fine just think they wound it up abit too much when the turbo mod was done.

Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 12:42 am
by Tapage
HJ61 means 12H-T engine .. but in the 2H engine adjust the fuel here ..

Image

Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:10 am
by davec
i second the notion that its cracked,in your first two photos looks like a crack in the body starting from the second last flat head screw,probably not your problem but i'd be checking it out a bit closer if i was you.

Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 7:00 pm
by WA60
Its defo the 2h engine but with an after market hair dryer on...adjust the fuel where??? :D

Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 7:01 pm
by WA60
Sorry my fault...the pic didnt load up. Nice one, thanks for that.

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 9:41 pm
by brighty
davec wrote:i second the notion that its cracked,in your first two photos looks like a crack in the body starting from the second last flat head screw,probably not your problem but i'd be checking it out a bit closer if i was you.
Back to try again.... the 'crack' you see is actually not a crack... it's the way the inspection plate has been moulded. The oil is actually leaking out of where the phillips/hex head screw covered in oil.

The is also a markedly big drop in oil pressure at idle once the car is at running temp. When driving/or at revs, it will sit at the 1/3 mark from the 'low' oil pressure mark and marginally above the low mark at idle.

Was wondering how this oil is leaking out and is it also linked to the drop in oil pressure??? ie: the oil pressure build up is not high, as it should be, due to this leak in the inj pump??? Is this oil leak allowing the oil pressure to drop so far???

Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 12:36 pm
by Tim HJ61
Howdy,

I don't think the weep in the plate has anything to do with your black smoke nor your low oil pressure. The IP has diesel, not oil in it. It's an annoying weep, clean it off now and again. think of it as a character mark :cool:

Maybe the injectors need cleaning up.
Maybe run some 100% BioDiesel through the ol' girl for a bit to see if that cleans up the injectors. It'll stop the black smoke anyways.

My oil pressure gauge sits on the lower third mark most of the time, only rising to half way when the engine is cold and I've just changed the oil. Not something I worry about - it's been like that for 70k since I bought it.

Tim

Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 8:57 pm
by oldmate
Is it diesel or oil leaking out? There is an oil feed to the pump. Infront of the pump at the wet patch is a pipe - that's an oil pipe. check that out for leaks.

Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 5:08 pm
by turkey
Is there a special tool/knack to unlocking the round locking nut with the 3 holes in it so you can adjust the fuel screw? I've never played with these before...

I am having some real lack of power issues with a 2H I have just put in my Troopy and wanting to play around with the fuel a little bit. The engine is unknown in kms but runs as tight as a drum, uses no oil, pretty good economy it just has no power whatsoever especially up hills. Down to 2nd or 3rd gear on some. Yeah i know they are no powerhouse but this one is especially bad! I know that new injectors are first on the list to try but thats going to have to wait a few weeks till I got the cash...

Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:44 pm
by kane077
If you take that bolt with the blade screwdriver slot in it out you will find oil will drain out. Let all the oil drain out of this cavity as this cavity is where the diaphragm operates the fuel control rack. excessive oil in this area will create fuel control issues. Also on the rear of the pump at the top there is a cover held on by 4 blade head screws. Remove this cover carefully as there is a spring and large alloy shims behind it. When its off you will see the diaphragm sitting there, pop it out a little and clean the oil out of in there as well.