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Painting Question

Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 12:55 pm
by HeathGQ
Having completed the colour for the GQ - It's a metallic acrylic (Sorry Bru). Obviously no shine at the moment, and being metallic I should do a clear coat - yes?

Question - should the painted surface be rubbed back before the clear goes on, and what grit paper should we be using?

Once teh clear goes on, do I then rub back with 1200 before buffing?

Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 4:29 pm
by mico
no don't sand the colour coat, just clear over it make sure yo use alot of clear so that you can cut it with 1200w/d and buff it

Re: Painting Question

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:17 pm
by Mick.
HeathGQ wrote:Having completed the colour for the GQ - It's a metallic acrylic (Sorry Bru). Obviously no shine at the moment, and being metallic I should do a clear coat - yes?

Question - should the painted surface be rubbed back before the clear goes on, and what grit paper should we be using?

Once teh clear goes on, do I then rub back with 1200 before buffing?
This may be a little late to be telling you this but once the car is based up with the colour you have about 3 hour max to apply the clear or the clear will deleminate from the colour. :shock:

If you have based it up and haven't applied the clear yet you can rub the base down with p1000 or p1200 wet and then apply a couple of coats of colour then apply the clear about half an hour later.

And yes all metalics these days require a clear coat because metalic is porus.

Cheers Mick.

Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 7:50 pm
by Reddo
Yeah you should clear coat within hours of painting the colour coat, other wise you basically have to rub down and coat again. Try using some Velvet soap on the 1200 rub down, before buffing commences - this is what the concourse guys used to do years ago. Help to avoid scratching.

Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 7:52 pm
by Reddo
PS why bother with acrylic? I know the cost is a bit more, but 2 pack is a breeze to prime, ground/colour/clear coat. I would not bother with acrylic again after painting with 2 pack and the finish is so much harder and glossy it requires far less finishing work.

Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:10 pm
by Mark2
I like 2 pac as well however after a couple of paint jobs have now been scared off it due to the isocyanates in it - supposed to wear a full hood with air supply - I only have a charcoal respirator. 2 Pac was cheaper than acylic as well - 4 litres of PPG industrial 2pac - $90.

Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:25 pm
by Reddo
Yeah agree with the toxicity issues, but in a well-ventilated area, wearing protective clothing such as zip-up hooded cotton body suit, respirator, cotton gloves and eye protection (swim goggles even!) this should not be a problem unless you are doing this everyday. That is, providing the exposure levels are low.

I also worry about using acrylic, and most people I know don't bother to wear any protection at all for this.

PS that 2 pack price is very good - I could not get paint for the Disco under 400, that is 240 for the colour and 160 for the clear coat, and most quoted much more than that.