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Rear winch - above diff

Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:45 am
by justinshere
Picked up a 2000pound (900kg??) winch and thinkin of setting it up over the rear diff to winch it up.
Will 2000 pound be enough for a full size 4B? It will be a ute by the time i do it

Cheers

Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 1:44 pm
by jeep97tj
my 900kg winch wouldnt pull my air shocked zuk down to the bumpstops. This time i will be using to pulleys to get some more pulling power.

Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 1:49 pm
by bogged
jeep97tj wrote:my 900kg winch wouldnt pull my air shocked zuk down to the bumpstops. This time i will be using to pulleys to get some more pulling power.
is this just for transporting?? Tryin to figure out why ya'all's doin it

Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 3:01 pm
by turps
bogged wrote:
jeep97tj wrote:my 900kg winch wouldnt pull my air shocked zuk down to the bumpstops. This time i will be using to pulleys to get some more pulling power.
is this just for transporting?? Tryin to figure out why ya'all's doin it
Pretty sure its for steep down hills. As the rear gets extremly light and with the susp unloading it could push the car/bug over on its nose. Where as if it was pulled down via a winch. The susp would act slike normal, almost.
Its the same thing as the rockcrawlers using it on the front of there buggys.
In a diesel swb gq. It could be usfull as the front is bloody heavy and the back is bloody light.

Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:24 am
by justinshere
turps wrote:
bogged wrote:
jeep97tj wrote:my 900kg winch wouldnt pull my air shocked zuk down to the bumpstops. This time i will be using to pulleys to get some more pulling power.
is this just for transporting?? Tryin to figure out why ya'all's doin it
Pretty sure its for steep down hills. As the rear gets extremly light and with the susp unloading it could push the car/bug over on its nose. Where as if it was pulled down via a winch. The susp would act slike normal, almost.
Its the same thing as the rockcrawlers using it on the front of there buggys.
In a diesel swb gq. It could be usfull as the front is bloody heavy and the back is bloody light.
x2

Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:47 am
by bazzle
900kg versus 9000kg.

If you really need to use the winch it isnt going to work safely. May as well put 900kg on the front too and save some money and weight..

Bazzle

Re: Rear winch - above diff

Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 9:45 am
by Wendle
justinshere wrote:Picked up a 2000pound (900kg??) winch and thinkin of setting it up over the rear diff to winch it up.
Will 2000 pound be enough for a full size 4B? It will be a ute by the time i do it

Cheers
It'll be fine. Just mount a small pulley to the axle housing and run it as a double line pull. Instant in-cab adjustable limiting strap.

Re: Rear winch - above diff

Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:43 am
by justinshere
Wendle wrote:
justinshere wrote:Picked up a 2000pound (900kg??) winch and thinkin of setting it up over the rear diff to winch it up.
Will 2000 pound be enough for a full size 4B? It will be a ute by the time i do it

Cheers
It'll be fine. Just mount a small pulley to the axle housing and run it as a double line pull. Instant in-cab adjustable limiting strap.
Thanks.
Thats was i was thinking of doing, having the cable run through a pulley and back up to the chassis.

Justin

Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:55 am
by turps
bazzle wrote:900kg versus 9000kg.

If you really need to use the winch it isnt going to work safely. May as well put 900kg on the front too and save some money and weight..

Bazzle
Its not for for recovering the car. As we all know 900kg aint even good enough for a quad bike let alone anything else.

Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 2:43 pm
by N*A*M
does the winch have a brake? if not it's no good to you

Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:36 pm
by UZJ40
im using a 3000lb in mine, as the air shock have a huge amount of presure in them.

Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 11:10 pm
by justinshere
N*A*M wrote:does the winch have a brake? if not it's no good to you
Why is this no good without a brake?

Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 11:30 pm
by CWBYUP
from my limited knowledge the whinch wont hold where you stop it once you stop pulling the line.

so basically the suspension will pull the line back out.

am i right nam ? or should i go and have another rum ?

Nick

Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 7:41 am
by bogged
turps wrote:
bogged wrote:
jeep97tj wrote:my 900kg winch wouldnt pull my air shocked zuk down to the bumpstops. This time i will be using to pulleys to get some more pulling power.
is this just for transporting?? Tryin to figure out why ya'all's doin it
Pretty sure its for steep down hills. As the rear gets extremly light and with the susp unloading it could push the car/bug over on its nose. Where as if it was pulled down via a winch. The susp would act slike normal, almost.
Its the same thing as the rockcrawlers using it on the front of there buggys.
In a diesel swb gq. It could be usfull as the front is bloody heavy and the back is bloody light.
Thanks dude.

Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 8:08 am
by justinshere
CWBYUP wrote:from my limited knowledge the whinch wont hold where you stop it once you stop pulling the line.

so basically the suspension will pull the line back out.

am i right nam ? or should i go and have another rum ?

Nick
So if i pull it in to a certain point and stop it there it wont hold, it'll release to a point wheres theres no tension on the cable?

I might have to hook it up n test it.

Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 12:42 pm
by jeep97tj
If it is one of thoses super cheap type winches u will be fine.

Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 12:45 pm
by chimpboy
A brake... and a good one, too. Imagine that thing unwinds when you are relying on it.

Not saying it's a bad idea btw, just that appropriate thought to design factors and a failsafe mechanism is required!

Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 1:20 pm
by Wendle
chimpboy wrote:Imagine that thing unwinds when you are relying on it.
The car will just unload back to ride height or a bit higher depending on the load on the rear springs.

Having the winches to load up the suspension is a very useful tool, but it isn't really used in the way you seem to be thinking. It is more to change the vehicle dynamics and the way the suspension (and therefore the car) behaves in a particular situation.
Say you are driving across a sidehill and you want to put the high side front tyre over a boulder that is maybe twice the height of the tyre, now imagine the sidehill is steep enough that as that front tyre climbs that rock and the rear suspension unloads on the high side it shifts enough weight to the low side to make the car want to fall over.
Same situation, but with a bit of tension on the rear cable and the unsprung weight is now working on your side to anchor the car. But more importantly, the rear suspension is now pre-loaded to the point where the front end will take up the movement needed to pull the front tyre over the rock instead, as it is free to move around while the rear is very restricted.

There is myriad different situations and uses that could be described, but when it comes down to it, all you are using the cables for is to change the way the car behaves in X situation. I don't use mine that much (maybe half a dozen times over a weekend of driving) but those uses will more than likely stop me needing to reverse up or dig across onto a tamer line, or maybe stop the car falling over due to driver error or the car not behaving the way I feel it should in a certain situation. Cable onto the front axle can be a big help on the bigger, faster vertical climbs too.

In-cab adjustable, disconnectable swaybars might be one way of thinking about it?

Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:00 am
by justinshere
Wendle wrote:
chimpboy wrote:Imagine that thing unwinds when you are relying on it.
The car will just unload back to ride height or a bit higher depending on the load on the rear springs.

Having the winches to load up the suspension is a very useful tool, but it isn't really used in the way you seem to be thinking. It is more to change the vehicle dynamics and the way the suspension (and therefore the car) behaves in a particular situation.
Say you are driving across a sidehill and you want to put the high side front tyre over a boulder that is maybe twice the height of the tyre, now imagine the sidehill is steep enough that as that front tyre climbs that rock and the rear suspension unloads on the high side it shifts enough weight to the low side to make the car want to fall over.
Same situation, but with a bit of tension on the rear cable and the unsprung weight is now working on your side to anchor the car. But more importantly, the rear suspension is now pre-loaded to the point where the front end will take up the movement needed to pull the front tyre over the rock instead, as it is free to move around while the rear is very restricted.

There is myriad different situations and uses that could be described, but when it comes down to it, all you are using the cables for is to change the way the car behaves in X situation. I don't use mine that much (maybe half a dozen times over a weekend of driving) but those uses will more than likely stop me needing to reverse up or dig across onto a tamer line, or maybe stop the car falling over due to driver error or the car not behaving the way I feel it should in a certain situation. Cable onto the front axle can be a big help on the bigger, faster vertical climbs too.

In-cab adjustable, disconnectable swaybars might be one way of thinking about it?
Thanks Wendle.

Thanks for all the replys everyone.

Im jus gunna give it a go running a pulley setup.
Let ya know how it goes.

Cheers

Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 1:11 pm
by Roctoy
my $100 one from supercheap is still doing the job fine. :D

and Bruce it's for adjusting the height when setup on Airshocks, i don't see a huge advantage putting it on a truck with coils (might help with unloading and also act as a limiting stap)

Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 1:23 pm
by 1MadEngineer
Roctoy Designfab wrote:my $100 one from supercheap is still doing the job fine. :D

and Bruce it's for adjusting the height when setup on Airshocks, i don't see a huge advantage putting it on a truck with coils (might help with unloading and also act as a limiting stap)
works for us!!!!

you are right though, we do use it as wendle has said and as a limiting strap of sorts, but the trick is to use anchor rope as it has ~35% stretch and allows for less tyre bounce on some climbs.

Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 4:06 pm
by chimpboy
Wendle wrote:
chimpboy wrote:Imagine that thing unwinds when you are relying on it.
The car will just unload back to ride height or a bit higher depending on the load on the rear springs.

Having the winches to load up the suspension is a very useful tool, but it isn't really used in the way you seem to be thinking. It is more to change the vehicle dynamics and the way the suspension (and therefore the car) behaves in a particular situation.
Say you are driving across a sidehill and you want to put the high side front tyre over a boulder that is maybe twice the height of the tyre, now imagine the sidehill is steep enough that as that front tyre climbs that rock and the rear suspension unloads on the high side it shifts enough weight to the low side to make the car want to fall over.
Same situation, but with a bit of tension on the rear cable and the unsprung weight is now working on your side to anchor the car. But more importantly, the rear suspension is now pre-loaded to the point where the front end will take up the movement needed to pull the front tyre over the rock instead, as it is free to move around while the rear is very restricted.

There is myriad different situations and uses that could be described, but when it comes down to it, all you are using the cables for is to change the way the car behaves in X situation. I don't use mine that much (maybe half a dozen times over a weekend of driving) but those uses will more than likely stop me needing to reverse up or dig across onto a tamer line, or maybe stop the car falling over due to driver error or the car not behaving the way I feel it should in a certain situation. Cable onto the front axle can be a big help on the bigger, faster vertical climbs too.

In-cab adjustable, disconnectable swaybars might be one way of thinking about it?
Yeah, I must be imagining it wrongly.

I was picturing a situation where the side angle or downhill slope is such that you want to keep your cog (either of the whole vehicle or just the rear) as low to the ground as possible.

So (in my imagination) if the winch gave, your body would bounce up into that higher c-o-g position that you were trying to avoid, but it would be worse than if you'd never winched it down because it would bounce up there with some momentum, increasing your chance of tipping.