Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

i have been checking parts out on Ebay and have come across this kit.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... &rd=1&rd=1

Does anyone know if this is a legit solution to fixing the slop in the 80 GXL drivetrain without going over to a part time 4x4 system?

the cv's are on borrowed time at the moment and the axel seals have just started to leak.

G

I put those on.... also new bearings, swivel kit and all tie-rods. Tightened up the front as good as new. But as I added all the other items on I cant comment on what the CV's are like on their own.

It is not only cv's worn out, there is a lot of wear on axle splines, and probably spider gears splines, hub flange splines also wear out.

So if you wanna get rid of the backlash, you have a lot of stuff to check/replace... or partime it.

Pitto
The wear starts in the c/v where the ball wears the outer, and on uphill corners, they start clicking. The c/v is 75% of the wear. The splines they run on also wear, and on early models, can get that bad, drive is lost, putting later (+8/92) drive plates and c/v's in stops it happening again, toyota did a sly fix up job without telling anyone...by making the splines longer. Now...the c/v sold by ebay is a chinese one, and in hard 4wding, will snap, seen it on many of these....but if you dont abuse your cruiser, it will live quite comfortably...so its up to you
Andrew

dow50r wrote:Pitto
The wear starts in the c/v where the ball wears the outer, and on uphill corners, they start clicking. The c/v is 75% of the wear. The splines they run on also wear, and on early models, can get that bad, drive is lost, putting later (+8/92) drive plates and c/v's in stops it happening again, toyota did a sly fix up job without telling anyone...by making the splines longer. Now...the c/v sold by ebay is a chinese one, and in hard 4wding, will snap, seen it on many of these....but if you dont abuse your cruiser, it will live quite comfortably...so its up to you
Andrew

Thanks for the Feedback. So if the ebay ones are no good, who should i go thru to buy cv's without handing over a kidney for genuine toyota parts?

G

I got good Japaneese ones from CBC bearings. Cant remember the brand but Jap is the way to go. I paid $200 each (mates rates) and the difference in quality compared to the Chineese ones I pulled out was massive. Just from looking at them side by side you can so easily tell which is made to last and which is made to get you buy till next year if your lucky. The CV's have got to be the worst job and I only wanted to do it once.

Alec

A couple of tips to make cv replacement not so bad.

Remove tie rod
Unbolt caliper and rest it somewhere, try not to stretch the brake line.
take off drive flange/free wheel hub (depending what your running)
taking off the hub gear will make putting it back on easier but not essential (no need to line up splines).
remove circlip
unbolt steering arms
unbolt knuckle seal

Take off hub/rotor/stub axle etc in one piece.

You should be able to do boths sides in a few hours. Doing it this way you wont have to replace the gaskets, nor repack and preload wheel bearings.

-Richo- wrote:A couple of tips to make cv replacement not so bad.

Remove tie rod
Unbolt caliper and rest it somewhere, try not to stretch the brake line.
take off drive flange/free wheel hub (depending what your running)
taking off the hub gear will make putting it back on easier but not essential (no need to line up splines).
remove circlip
unbolt steering arms
unbolt knuckle seal

Take off hub/rotor/stub axle etc in one piece.

You should be able to do boths sides in a few hours. Doing it this way you wont have to replace the gaskets, nor repack and preload wheel bearings.

Sorry dude.. i so wouldn't recommend this way.. but each to there own.

care to explain why?

-Richo- wrote:Take off hub/rotor/stub axle etc in one piece.

Even I have thought about doing it like that, but havent tried it yet. Looks like the whole assembly in one piece could be really heavy.

its not that heavy and im a skinny bastard, just take the caliper off and it will be easy to handle, i always do it this way, im interested to hear why Ruffy thinks its so bad...

Richo i find this way the best to just change a cv. l use a similiar method.
Only down side i can see is the wheel bearings, gaskets etc don't get changed?
Would only do these if required.

Matt

Frankenyota wrote:Richo i find this way the best to just change a cv. l use a similiar method.
Only down side i can see is the wheel bearings, gaskets etc don't get changed?
Would only do these if required.

Matt

yeah its pretty easy to adjust them if needed. This method is for just swapping cv's on a regular basis, i would be doing a full tear down atleast once a year to check bearings and install new gaskets.