Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Well I finally got around to it and decided to begin building the rear bar for the Cruiser as the commercial ones are $2000.00 or more. Please don't critcise my welding too much. Basically the engineering fabricators bent some 6mm plate, cut the holes for the stub axles and tapered the ends for me. They have since welded in the stub axles and some 8mm plate that my welder would not touch. I have the bar as a CAD drawing if anyone is interested. Just drop me your email.
The top photo is the bracket that goes inside the chassis rails for securing the bar.
Some pics. (I hope)

keep us updated

An update. I have fabricated the wheel carrier and located the stub axles in the bar. The engineering shop is welding them in place and I should pick it up this arvo.

That's awesome!

Keep the pics coming as you progress!

Cheers,

Anthony

can you send me a copy of the cad drawings
cheers mick renee.powell2@bigpond.com

Work has progressed.
The stub axles have been welded by the engineering shop.
I have built the wheel carrier assembly.
The only problem I can see with this design is that due to the curvature of the doors, I will have to lean the wheel carrier out for clearance.(Only 25mm clearance)

A quick update. The rear carrier has now been built and I ordered a latch today. Hopefully will have it all painted by the weekendin order for fitment.
The wire is for a reversing/ camp light. At present only making one wheel carrier. See if there are any design flaws and then construct another if necessary.
Does anyone have a proven design for a camp light for fitment to the wheel carrier?

I think you are doing a great job there! Looking quite neat, I was wondering how you would attempt the sides. Just one suggestion, I would be looking at supporting the bottom of the wheel as I think you may (in time) bend the carrier from driving/bouncing around. Also you may need to look at some additional lighting as you may be blocking the view of the tailights & possibly number plate. Some slim LED lights would look great.

Keep up the good work.

Also, have you made a support behind each wheel that go to the chassis rail? I did when I made my rear bar (on an 80 but still similar concept).

Thanks for the reply. For lights I will be fitting 2 100mm x 100mm LED tail/indicator lights. As for additional support the rear bar is bolted onto the chassis rails either side and also utilises the four bolts in the centre of the vehicle above the towbar.
When I had fitted the wheel and carrier onto the vehicle last weekend I was able to put my whole body weight onto it with no problem. I am a little worried about continual vibrations though.
This photo shows the brackets that bolt onto the chassis. Also I have since created a box shape for strength around the stub axle.



Thanks
Dave HZJ105.

You may want to plate the top of your 'upright' to prevent it filling up with water, or drill a hole in a bottom corner.

Why have you mounted the tyre that far off the carrier, even with extreme tyres they wouldn't be that wide.

Here's my OL one, the tyre presses up against the lower arm of the carrier.



I would also brace the upright onto the lower arm a bit too.

For the light you could run a smaller tube with the light on top inside the upright, drill a hole through the upright and weld a nut over the hole so you can use a bolt to lock the smaller tube at the correct height.

See if you can add some extra bracing from the pivot back to the chassis mount, remember triangulation = strength

Sorry have been stuck in Townsville (TSV) with work.
Another update.
Rear latch is a De Sta Co model 334.
The white that is showing is a nylon block to minimise any rattling or shaking on dirt roads.

if you are offering your cad drawings i would be stoked to get a copy... i am in the process of buying a hungy as we speak and would be keen to do something like this...

i have pm'd my email addy to you

cheers

fair enuff.... couldnt send the pm... numbnut33@hotmail.com is my email addy for the cad drawings

cheers again.... and keep the updates coming too bro....

top work

by the way.... i had a home made spare carrier on one of my old hiluxes and the gussetting right behind the tyre itself is a good place to drill a hole to attach a chain to keep your wheel secure.... just a thought...

Its good to see more people not donating more money for over priced stuff to 4wd stores, your proving that you can get a fabricator your self to do the work for a 1/3 of the price. The only thing about your welds I have to say is......What type of welder is it? If it is mig with a gas make sure the pressure is around 13psi (out of the wind more if not), The (Heat) major setting is about right but the minor setting needs to put up a little, unless its at its max then you need to click the coarse up and put the minor back to one (hope that makes sense), then ajust your wire setting to make it sound like tearing paper. If it is gasless dont worry about the gas . It dosent look like stick too me but i havent seen stick welds for 2 years so... ignore this if it is I thought it might make your life easier. Top stuff

any updates on the wheel carrier. what thickness is the main bar and mounts to chassis.

OK, the rear bar is from 6mm plate folded by an engineering company and stub axles welded in for $190.00. The mounting brackets onto the chassis rails are 6mm plate. They finish 8mm short of the inside bar surface to allow an 8mm plate to be welded on the end (forming a T if looking from above) this has the effect of spreading the load bearing surface.
I made up a couple of brackets to slide inside the chassis rails with bolts welded to them to use the current mounting holes as per the first couple of pictures.
The only thing I would suggest is that my whell carrier should be heavier and my welding alot better.
The wheel carrier is being re done at the moment.
It will still cost me about 1/3 of a commercial one and that includes rear light and led's in the bumper.

thanks mate that will with building my own.

cheers

Led's mounted inside the bar for protection and side panels almost completed. The side panels are bolted to the main bar and a bracket runs off the forward most towbar mount to support the forward end of the panel.

Would it be possible to get a run down of the costs, the suppliers and professional help utilised
thanks

Costs.
Stub axles $92.00
Supply and bend plate for rear bar. Weld in stub axles $190.00
LED lights $88.00
3mm plate for sides $37.00
Rear latch $74.00
Paint $50.00
Extra steel, grinding wheels, cutting wheels $150.00
Stub axles locking open pin, wire for rear lights $75.00

For this money I will end up with a dual wheel carrier, rear light, jerry can holder and high lift jack mount.
Dave.

I have just purchased a new 150amp welder and it has made a huge difference to the welds.
Wheel carrier Mk2.
100 x 50 x 4mm RHS.
The main support arm had to be stepped out to give clearance to the door.
This involved cutting the arm and then rewelding and gusseting for strength.
I am mounting a high lift jack on the support arm running back to the hub at 45 degrees. This is the bracket near the top of the wheel carrier.
The wheel support slides in and out to allow for the carriage of different sized tyres.

looks good keep the photo's coming as you progress

jimbo

Well, the high lift jack mount would not work out because as the carrier opened the large base plate comes into contact with the tail light. So I have cut it off.
In the photos you can see how much of a bend or cut and reweld is required for clearance to the door.
I still have to work out how to attach the jerry can holder I have.
I may sell this one and build another. If anyone is interested?

I have almost completed the carrier. I have welded in a pole for the mounting of a rear work light and also built in a jerry can holder that is removeable.
I am planning on building a wheel carrier for the passenger side shortly.