Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Last night driving my lux home it started to loose power, when i noticed it i started to pull over, as i pulled over it conked out.

The thing got an oil leak and the engine was mighty hot.

What are the general reporcutions of this?

Do I look into trying to rebuild the current one or put a new/recon one in it?

Would appreciate some feedback before dealing with towing it to a mechanic.

pull the head off and have a look ,did it seize does it still run ? petrol or diesel ?

haven't touched it since it cut out.

its a 2.8L deisel.

Doesn't sound good.. They are a tuff little engine but it sounds as though it got pretty hot. Take it to a mechanic you trust to get an opinion. It'll cost 5K to rebuild it properly. Low K imports are a good option. I have had no more warranty issues with low k imports than i have had with rebuilds and they seem to last just as long.
Cheers, Dan

is there any reason why i wouldn't just rebuild my own engine over getting a reconed one?

looks to be a cheaper option and its only done 167k kms

it probably just heat siezed. i would try to start it. why didn't you stop when you noticed it getting hot??

there was no light or warning.

as soon as i noticed it started to loose power i pulled over, bit late by then :/

i dont really think its a good idea to start it when it's got no oil in it at all.

the only positive thing i can see is after it stopped oil still continued to drip, would this mean a less likley hood of it beiing seized?

tumoit wrote:is there any reason why i wouldn't just rebuild my own engine over getting a reconed one?

looks to be a cheaper option and its only done 167k kms

You be better off to get your own recoed rather than purchase a changer over jobie. The fact that it's only 167 k is now irrelevant because it's been hot.

This is why you're best to get a professional opinion on it. If you aren't mechanically knowledgable than it's not the sort of thing you want to get advice on here as the engine will need to be seen to be assessed.

Now it's cooled down, sure it may start and run just fine, it probably will but that doesn't mean it's ok.

Cheers, Dan

Sounds like you are saying the engine ran out of oil rather than overheated???

It doesn't really matter that oil was still running out - once it drops below the level that the pump can suck up the engine may as well be running dry.

In which case, it is likely to need rings and bearings as an absolute minimum, and possibly a hone/rebore

tumoit wrote:i dont really think its a good idea to start it when it's got no oil in it at all.

the only positive thing i can see is after it stopped oil still continued to drip, would this mean a less likley hood of it beiing seized?

If it was dripping oil it prob punched a hole in the side of the motor?

When motors are low on oil, the temp rises due to no cooling effect of the oil.
I once completely cooked a 2ltr ford cortina (bottom rad hose wasnt clamped ) towed it home fixed it and it went even better than before, i think it expanded the pistons and made it seal better.

so i got up under the hood and its the radiator that has drained, not the oil. did feel rather oily on the ground though, and there seems to be oil on the front diff.

the oil levels are fine though and would explain why there was no warning.

how dramatic is a drained radiator compared to the oil?

i plan on taking it to a mechanic for a professional opinion, just like some ideas

How can you confuse water and oil???

Cracked or warped head is a possibility, possibly damaged injectors, bearings, etc - all depends how hot it got and how quickly or slowly it cooled.

if it was a nissan id say just refill the radiator and drive it
but its not so take it to a mechanic have ya compression tested etc.
also get the full cooling system tested and fixed as it shouldnt lose that much water if its fine.

don't think not being a nissan has anything to do with it. just refill the rad (and fix the leak) and try and start it. if it idles fine take it for a spin. (make sure you leave it idling with the rad cap off to bleed air though)

I did something very similar in my troopy with H diesel, the temp gauge was only just over half so I didnt think it was dangerous temps but felt it loosing power, popped the clutch in engine stopped, wouldnt turn over, waiting a bit till it cooled then it started, drove to the nearest town (not to far at all), blew a welsh(spl) plug, called the towie. Get it home, fix all the leaks, replace all the welsh plugs, runs alright, drive to work for a week, (20 mins all up a day) check the oils ect the next weekend, both the radiator had oil in it, and the oil had coolent in it, head had gone, took it to a specialist guy says he is suprised it even ran it was that far gone.

So there is there is a chance your radiator fluid was oily, and I would be very sus about the head being cracked or at least the head gasket, most likly internally unless fluid is leaking out the side of the gasket.

just my 2ce

Dean

I'm going to fix up the radiator and get a compression test done on it.

Then will take it in to get a good look over.

I'm just hoping that any results from here won't be as dramatic as needing to drop a recon engine or having to rebuild my one.

the oil issue looks to be the radiator leaked and the coolant ran down under the engine which had a bit of a build up of oil, there was only a bit left on the road so when i put my fingers on it was very oily (there wasn't a pool there or anything).

nads wrote:don't think not being a nissan has anything to do with it. just refill the rad (and fix the leak) and try and start it. if it idles fine take it for a spin. (make sure you leave it idling with the rad cap off to bleed air though)

Yep, cut out this wishy washy stuff, fill up the radiator, and see if the thing starts.

It doesn't matter if the radiator is still a little bit leaky, just keep the garden hose in the top so there's always water there and you'll be fine to run it for a couple of minutes for diagnostic purposes.

If it does start, give the pedal a few stabs, see what happens. One little overheating episode should not destroy your engine... you have at least a decent chance that there's no problem at all.

I would do all this before even bothering with a compression test.

ps if it does run okay and you put it back on the road as is... while you're at it, replace every hose, the oil, oil filter, and coolant.

HI IT SOUNDS LIKE A INTERNAL FALUIRE IF YOU ARE IN SYDNEY I OWN A 4X4 WORKSHOP I COULD HAVE A LOOK AN GIVE MY OPION THAT COSTS NOTHUNG LET ME KNOW IF I CAN HELP

SOUNDTECH wrote:HI IT SOUNDS LIKE A INTERNAL FALUIRE IF YOU ARE IN SYDNEY I OWN A 4X4 WORKSHOP I COULD HAVE A LOOK AN GIVE MY OPION THAT COSTS NOTHUNG LET ME KNOW IF I CAN HELP

Speak up, i cant hear you

Layto....

in Brisbane.

would love to have a mechanic come around and have a look at it. would rather get a decent opinion on it before I move it or run it.

Time for a V6

mine lost power then started makin sum big clunking noise.....got it rebuilt and was the dumest thing i could do..... gettin a transplant with a 6mnth warranty wouldve cost me half the price....

it runs out of water and you dont notice the temp gauge ?

overheated prob warped the head

rip the head off have it tested wack it back together get a compression test

id get rid of the motor if i was you i would not trust any motor thats over heated

injectors fail gaskets go bearings can go

overheating not only effects the motor also can effect wiring and other things

once my lil buzz box threw a head gasket all sorts of things when wrong the raditor tanks fell apart water pump hoses seals injectors belts

i guess go much heat under a bonnet can effect everything