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Squeezing 37 creepys on to a mk wagon with out soa

Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:43 pm
by pongo
Just trying to figure out how to squeeze them in under the rears without the tyres scrubbing on the front part of the guard, i cant trim it down as its right against the door.

My main q is, id i redrill the diff perces back an inch will my diff hit the fuel tank when it flexes up. I plan on doing a semi elipitical rear end. Im not wanting to to a soa as i want to keep the 3 inch body lift to clear my longe range tank and a few extra under body parts.

With the 35 all terrains i only have a bout an inch gap atm.

Would some pics help , ill try and get some up tommorrow or later tonight.

Thanks,Guys

Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 3:03 pm
by lay80n
Semi eliptic as in normal leaves (which are half eliptic), 3/4 eliptic, or 1/4 eliptic ??

Layto....

Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 7:11 pm
by pongo
:oops: im planning on a 3/4 rear end, similiar to screwys old set up.

Here a pic of how it stands now. Maybe some longer shackels might cure any potential issues, but im still curious on redrilling the perches.

Cheers

Image

Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 7:22 pm
by badger
turn your leaves round 180 degrees and cut the back half of the gaurd out or get custom made leaves with different holes. if you redrill the holes far enough on thise leaves you will need way too much castor correction

Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 5:05 am
by pongo
badger wrote:turn your leaves round 180 degrees and cut the back half of the gaurd out or get custom made leaves with different holes. if you redrill the holes far enough on thise leaves you will need way too much castor correction
I dont want to turn the leaves around as it will make the wheelbase far longer and ill loose my longe range tank. Good point regarding pinion angle, but it shouldnt be an issue. i might have to run some plates to corect it, but i already have some sitting here

Im hoping for a tourer orientated setup built around 31 for daily and 35 for 4wd touring and 37's for play as i already have them sitting here gathering dust.

Thanks

Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 6:11 am
by V8Patrol
Re-drilling the pearches will gain you that extra inch without too many dramas, you should actually be able to get around an inch & a half of gain !!!

Unfortunately a guard cut is the easiest "long term" solution, you'll spend hours trying to gain clearance....... drilling pearches, extended shackles, longer front spring mounts, re-curved leaves,..... etc

Simply cut the guards where YOU need them cut and do a bit of bog n spray work.

Kingy

Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 8:56 am
by Brendan-s
for some reason the thought of 37s on a LWB MK gets me all moist in the panties. post some pics when ya done...

Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 4:30 am
by pongo
V8Patrol wrote:Re-drilling the pearches will gain you that extra inch without too many dramas, you should actually be able to get around an inch & a half of gain !!!

Unfortunately a guard cut is the easiest "long term" solution, you'll spend hours trying to gain clearance....... drilling pearches, extended shackles, longer front spring mounts, re-curved leaves,..... etc

Simply cut the guards where YOU need them cut and do a bit of bog n spray work.

Kingy
Thanks, Kingy. Im not afraid of cutting the front guards and the rear quater, My main concern is the front of the rear wheel arch as the door is very close and doesnt allow for trimming like a swb.

So, ya reckon an inch and a half shouldnt affect the diff hitting the long range tank ? I think it may be okay. I guess worse case is i just use a few spare housing for trial and error if needed

Cheers