Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i see people talking on changing them on the trail, how hard or how long would it take to do on my lux and what tools would I need??


anything to be worried about while doing it?

Its pretty simple.

There are two ways of changing a CV, this is my preferred method.

Tools needed:

10mm socket
12mm
14mm
17mm
circlip pliers
brass drift
hammer
Big screwdriver (or 54mm socket)

Take off tyre.

Undo free wheeling hub 10mm socket.

Take off circlip(you'll see it on the end of the stub axle)

undo 12mm bolts

Tap the studs so the cone washers pop out (brass drift and hammer)

remove outer hub.

remove the brake caliper (17mm socket)

undo the two large flat nuts (54mm Socket or large screwdriver) the whole hub will fall away (dont drop the bearings out into the dirt)

Undo the stub axle housing (14mm socket)

slide it of and there is you busted CV.

Remove it, theres two machined flat spots on the CV you need to rotate this so its at the top and bottom and pull the cv out.

Put in new cv and axle (its easier to carry a whole CV and axle then to stuff around in the dirt putting a new cv on the axle)

put it back together the opposite.

Once you pull it apart you will see all the bits i'm talking about.

Do it at home first.

after a while you will be able to do it in no time at all.

Oh and make sure you have plenty of rags and hand cleaner nearby.

And grease for the new CV your putting back in.

The main thing to watch out for is how tight to do the wheel bearings up again (thats the two 54mm nuts), it may be handy to find a bush mechanic to show you roughly how tight to set them ( they are ment to have a certain amount of preload).

Too tight and you'll burn the bearings out and to loose they will flog out, i have never had a problem, and i'm not a mechanic.

Also a cheap $2-$5 tarp that you can sit on put all you bits on etc comes in handy, ive always used a screw driver on my hub nuts , they have nice little teeth on them now for undoing and doing up

Carry some shopping bags to wrap around all the bits you break so they dont dirty your car when you take them home

Also learn how to get the calaper off the disc without removing the brake lines as you dont want to be bleeding the brakes on the side of the trail :-)

Good info, might move this to 4x4 tech peoples....

As for the 54mm socket, anymore info on it? Dont think I have ever seen one? Where do you get one from? $$$$?

cheers

I have a home made socket that I bought from a four wheel drive place for around $10. It is basically a piece of pipe that has been shaped at one end to match the nut, the other end has holes to stick a screwdriver through. Works alright, although it can be a little hard to get onto the nuts, especially if someone has done it the dodgy way before you with a screwdriver.

yeah they are about $20 - $35 prolly from tractor or industrial machinery places

Damn us hilux guys now our shait about changing CV's.

The tarp is a good idea (i always forget that one).

As for the brakes, just lever it of don't undo the lines to much work.

if you dont want to buy circlip pliers a pair or needle nose pliers with some flats filed into the outer edges works well, and carry a small file in the tool kit if you need to remodel the pliers or the circlip


Also the very top bolt on the mount for the brake calaper (small one at top) is the right size to fit into the end of the axle shaft so you can have something to pull on when trying to re apply the circlip.

And take note of the order/position of the washer/lockwasher for the 54mm nuts.

Toyota SST (special service tool ) Part No 09607-60020
available from toyota spare parts outlets, they would have to order it in most likely, don't know $$$, probably expensive!
Also, Snap-on tools Part No ANS1900B, is better quality than the toyota tool though it is 3/4" drive, needs adaptor to 1/2". Late Nissans have the screw lock system on the wheel bearings ( mid gq onwards) but these tools are suitable for the earlier nissans as well as all toyota.
I would be tempted not to touch the wheel bearings at all if just doing a cv change as it can be done by disassembling up until and removing the circlip then undoingthe bolts holding the swivel wiper seals + retainer plates then removing top swivel bearing, ( may be steering arm on some models or just a retainer/locator on others. Then just slide the whole lot off of the swivel bell and inspect the carnage! :wink:

i reckon its just easier 2 pull the bearings off. rather than undo the wiper seals and all that

Fair enough, might be but you dont have to re-adjust bearings and if the CV has shattered it is a bit easier to clean up all the shrapnel.

yeah good points juzza next time i do it ill try that way and c wot works best 4 me ill try most things once

A 54mm socket can be built yourself if you have a welder and a grinder. I used 6 of 30x3mm flat steel for the flat sections of the socket and welded them together.

The method that I used was to buy two 54mm nuts from somewhere and wrap each one in some reasonably thin tie wire. Then used hose clamps to clamp the flat steel around the nuts to form a tube spanner type arrangement. The tie wire ensures that when you're finished, your socket will have some clearance around the nut. The steel does not quite meet up at each corner so welding can be a little trickey. If you are confident in your welding ability it shouldn't be a problem.

When I did mine, I accidently welded one of the nut into the socket as the weld got through the gaps in the steel. So I just welded that nut in tight and cut that end off flush with the nut. This nut essentially closed off one end of the socket. I then welded a 1/2" socket on to the nut so that I could use my torque wrench on it.

The "working end" needed a bit of a clean up on the inside with a die grinder but all in all it works great! Much better than the $60-80 options that I found for this problem.

PS Hope that all makes sense.

I've heard of someone who has tried to fashion their own socket out of a piece of exhaust pipe but they gave up as they weren't getting anywhere. May be worth a try though if you've got the patience.

Got my 54 mm socket from a plumbing shop - same size that they use for hot water cylinders......

beebee wrote:I've heard of someone who has tried to fashion their own socket out of a piece of exhaust pipe but they gave up as they weren't getting anywhere. May be worth a try though if you've got the patience.

This is basically how the one I bought was made.

Bought it about 5 years ago for around $10 - $20 from here:
Land Rover Spares
304 Middleborough Road
BLACKBURN SOUTH VIC 3130
(03) 9890-0500

The way Juzza has explained is the other method, it works just as well and takes about the same time, like he said you dont have to worry about the wheel bearings.

The only problem i have found with this method is you need to position yourself a little further in the wheel arch, no problem if your at home on a stable stand but most of the time i'm stuck halfway on a hill with big mutha rocks all around so the jacked vehicle is sometimes quite unstable, with the first method i found you can sit well clear and have no worrys if the rig should fall.

The other method like juzza said is sometimes easier to remove a fully exploded CV.

Just an ammendment to my previous post in relation to making your own socket. I used 32x3mm flat not the 30x3 previously quoted. It would work better with say 33 or maybe 34 as the they would meet better - so you could cut down some larger steel to facilitate this if you want.

SEEMS the Good old Kiwi boys have it all ova ya when it comes to changing C.V.s on the old LUX aye.

We have a half hour break down rule ova here for competitions, more than half hour in the pits and your out. So need to be quick.

OK.....Our way of tearing down the knuckle consists of...........

1. Jack under axle
2. Wheel off
3. Dust cap off drive flange (we dont run free wheeling hubs)
4. Circlip off C.V.
5. Brake caliper out of way (flexible brake lines help)
6. THIS IS THE TRICK..............long reach 14mm socket

Thats it..........pull out broken C.V.

No messing with wheelbearing adjustment

TOTAL TIME..............drive in drive out about 10 - 15 minutes

THE TRICK............. Drill right through the brake rotor, we use TWO holes opposite each other at the required PCD to get a long reach socket to undo the ring of 14 mm bolts holding the SPINDLE onto the KNUCKLE (just dont drop the bolts inside, we dont run washers either)

To get a exploded C.V. out........bolt into end of C.V. chain around bolt, spare axle through chain, guy each side.............yank....never fails

Of course the Longfields went in and we haven't been in since :wink:

Mike

Damn that is a bloody good idea.

I might do that as i still need to change a broken axle every now and than.

Thanks for the tip!!!!

You must have aussies blood in ya somewhere to come up with that

kiwilux wrote:THE TRICK............. Drill right through the brake rotor, we use TWO holes opposite each other at the required PCD to get a long reach socket to undo the ring of 14 mm bolts holding the SPINDLE onto the KNUCKLE (just dont drop the bolts inside, we dont run washers either)

Mike

This is a real good idea but to make it even easier i think you would convert the 14mm bolts to studs to make re-assembely easier. You would have less chance of dropping a nut in there than you would a bolt.

RUFF wrote:

kiwilux wrote:THE TRICK............. Drill right through the brake rotor, we use TWO holes opposite each other at the required PCD to get a long reach socket to undo the ring of 14 mm bolts holding the SPINDLE onto the KNUCKLE (just dont drop the bolts inside, we dont run washers either)

Mike

This is a real good idea but to make it even easier i think you would convert the 14mm bolts to studs to make re-assembely easier. You would have less chance of dropping a nut in there than you would a bolt.

the stud conversion is very simple, available from allpro, or you can make it yourself, i started getting parts for this, until i realised that i dont open it often enough to care since longfielding 8)

kiwilux wrote:SEEMS the Good old Kiwi boys have it all ova ya when it comes to changing C.V.s on the old LUX aye.

We have a half hour break down rule ova here for competitions, more than half hour in the pits and your out. So need to be quick.

OK.....Our way of tearing down the knuckle consists of...........

1. Jack under axle
2. Wheel off
3. Dust cap off drive flange (we dont run free wheeling hubs)
4. Circlip off C.V.
5. Brake caliper out of way (flexible brake lines help)
6. THIS IS THE TRICK..............long reach 14mm socket

Thats it..........pull out broken C.V.

No messing with wheelbearing adjustment

TOTAL TIME..............drive in drive out about 10 - 15 minutes

THE TRICK............. Drill right through the brake rotor, we use TWO holes opposite each other at the required PCD to get a long reach socket to undo the ring of 14 mm bolts holding the SPINDLE onto the KNUCKLE (just dont drop the bolts inside, we dont run washers either)

To get a exploded C.V. out........bolt into end of C.V. chain around bolt, spare axle through chain, guy each side.............yank....never fails

Of course the Longfields went in and we haven't been in since :wink:

Mike

can you please post me or send some photos of your brake rotor to me for analysis, this sounds ahhh....pretty awesome, 10-15mins,

im not quite getting my head around it?!

BJ, three words for speeding things up, AIR IMPACT GUN, for wheel nuts, and the ring of 14 mm bolts, spins about 1 zillion revs per min, so bolts come out cleanly, not much chance of dropping it behind the rotor, use a deep socket too, with somfing stuffed in da end, so most of the bolt is up inside the socket with only 4 or 5 threads showing

will try to get some pics of it. But like you said, with 8) longfields 8) in there, shouldn't be much need to open it up, unlike guys running stock CVs.

Hey POS, think yr right son, i'm sure the oldmans blood line has some aussie convict in it

Mike

Actyally Ruff you could be onto something there with the studs, would make lining everything up eaiser too, they are a beotch to hold in place and get a couple of bolts started, and yeah, nuts should be eaiser to work with

Cheers Mike

Way to go Mike!!

I`ve never changed a CV by going in through the bearing. FARK that

I remove hub
take off c clip
then only loosen the bottom king pin
remove top king pin but leave still attached to steering
undo refelt
then lift the hole lot off

Don`t have to play with wheel bearing or brakes.
The biggest thing is to just be carefull not to drop swivel bearing in dirt

have done both side in 45mins from removing the 1st wheel to putting the 2nd back on.