Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Fitted a VDO Pyro to my GU TD42T after a recent Turbo upgrade.
I drove a long steep hill on the way home today and noticed the EGT got to 600 Deg after hammering all the way to the top of the hill in 3rd gear.
The gauge during normal driving all last week did not get above 500 Deg.
sould i be getting it re tuned and have the Boost and Fuel backed of a bit.

Current Upgrade.

3 inch Exhuast , Dump pipe, Adjustable Boost controller locked of at 15 pound and tuned to suit boost and fuel.

Any opinons would be great.

Thanks Grant

where is your gauge sender located???


Mine used to sit round 400 normally and 550 on a 45 degree day towing trailer out west up some fucking long drags up hill...


Bloke on EO is talkin about gettin his setup with EGTs set at 650... everything I've read says 550 tops, but again, depends on where in the system your sender is located.

YEGTMV

bogged wrote:where is your gauge sender located???


Mine used to sit round 400 normally and 550 on a 45 degree day towing trailer out west up some ***** long drags up hill...


Bloke on EO is talkin about gettin his setup with EGTs set at 650... everything I've read says 550 tops, but again, depends on where in the system your sender is located.

YEGTMV

Thermocouple probe is in the fitting on the dump pipe !

INTERCOOLER!

but yeh ... i had mine up to 650 quite a number of times in the sand when i had it

pulls like a freight train

Hoonz wrote:INTERCOOLER!

but yeh ... i had mine up to 650 quite a number of times in the sand when i had it

pulls like a freight train

My truck hauls arse!
i just hope 600 deg is not hitting the danger zone.

600 is realatively safe. 700 is when life expectacy is measured in seconds not minutes. When you say "hammering it" was that high revs, or high load low revs? Things will get hotter if the revs are too low. 2500 is a pretty good target to keep things spinning faster enough to be efficient but slow enough not to be annoying.

nzdarin wrote:600 is realatively safe. 700 is when life expectacy is measured in seconds not minutes. When you say "hammering it" was that high revs, or high load low revs? Things will get hotter if the revs are too low. 2500 is a pretty good target to keep things spinning faster enough to be efficient but slow enough not to be annoying.

it was 3500 rpm 3 rd gear up a steep bitumin road about 500 meter long, it hit the 600 deg only at the top.
i have noticed how is gets hot when you are at low rev in 5th around 1800 rpm.

600 deg is ok but what you have to watch is what they call spiking. You pull up a long hill and say hit 550-600deg go over the top and then back off the throttle, instantly your temp drops rapidly say down to 300 deg, this is what cracks heads and pistons. This is why factory turbo vehicles are tuned conservitavly.(to make them IDIOT proof) If you are going to have your truck tuned slightly hot (which is ok) you need to learn to drive it to the pyro. I know it sounds silly but what you need to do on that long hill or through a sand run etc is back of the throtle a little 200m before the top or (if practical) before you hit hard traction again just to let the temp come down a bit which will help it not have that sudden cooling. Hope this makes sense.

DR Frankenstine wrote:600 deg is ok but what you have to watch is what they call spiking. You pull up a long hill and say hit 550-600deg go over the top and then back off the throttle, instantly your temp drops rapidly say down to 300 deg, this is what cracks heads and pistons. This is why factory turbo vehicles are tuned conservitavly.(to make them IDIOT proof) If you are going to have your truck tuned slightly hot (which is ok) you need to learn to drive it to the pyro. I know it sounds silly but what you need to do on that long hill or through a sand run etc is back of the throtle a little 200m before the top or (if practical) before you hit hard traction again just to let the temp come down a bit which will help it not have that sudden cooling. Hope this makes sense.

I'm glad i just had read of that make alot of sense

Also what pyro meter are you all guys using would i need one on a TB42 Turbo'd?

I was thinking of using one of these guys just not sure how well it would work.. i already have a spot on my dump pipe to put it in as well..
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... &SUBCATID=

I just didn't want to pay like $200 for one if i don't need etc..

Thanks

Rick.

I thought it was better to fit the pyro on the exhaust manifold just before the turbo. As it gives a more accrute reading of what the temp is. I thought I read somewhere there can be a 100degree difference in temp from one side of the turbo to the the other

turps wrote:I thought it was better to fit the pyro on the exhaust manifold just before the turbo. As it gives a more accrute reading of what the temp is. I thought I read somewhere there can be a 100degree difference in temp from one side of the turbo to the the other

thats what I was thinking.... Depending where you fit it, the temp readings can be much different.


most people stick with the VDO gauges.

Looking good bogged i PM'D u like a month ago about a "A Pillar Pod" any i couldn't find one to suit a patrol as the windscreen is to vertical..

I endded up with this pod now just got to connect the sender wires and tap into my vacume line for boost when the turbo goes in next week.




Rick.

Mulisha wrote:Looking good bogged i PM'D u like a month ago about a "A Pillar Pod" any i couldn't find one to suit a patrol as the windscreen is to vertical..

I endded up with this pod now just got to connect the sender wires and tap into my vacume line for boost when the turbo goes in next week.




Rick.

Where did you get the white overlay for the guages??

turps wrote:I thought it was better to fit the pyro on the exhaust manifold just before the turbo. As it gives a more accrute reading of what the temp is. I thought I read somewhere there can be a 100degree difference in temp from one side of the turbo to the the other

Yes you can do that but then you set the temps up hotter so it really makes no difference. what is important though is to have it as close to the turbo as possible if on the dump pipe side.

I made them up They turned out well

The problem with post-turbo EGT (i.e. dump pipe) measurement, is that the turbo takes out an unknown quantity of heat based on the load on the compressor wheel (a variable - hence the unknown quantity).

Most people assume that this figure is around 100degC.

650 is a dangerous post turbo temperature assuming that this is correct. This means you could be running up to 800C / 1500F pre-turbine.

Engine damage due to excessive EGT is cumulative.

One of my favourite quotes on the subject is from Banks Power on the subject of pre-turbo EGT:

Over 1400º F., you’re usually gambling against a stacked deck and it’s only a matter of time until you lose. The higher the EGT, the shorter that time will be.

Drive like a professional trucky, use EGT as a guide, when it gets near the temp you think is a compromise just lift the throttle a bit and dont try to go as fast as you can.
Its not hard to do once you try it.

Bazzle

bazzle wrote:Drive like a professional trucky, use EGT as a guide, when it gets near the temp you think is a compromise just lift the throttle a bit and dont try to go as fast as you can.
Its not hard to do once you try it.

Bazzle

100% correct

spannercrab wrote:The problem with post-turbo EGT (i.e. dump pipe) measurement, is that the turbo takes out an unknown quantity of heat based on the load on the compressor wheel (a variable - hence the unknown quantity).

Most people assume that this figure is around 100degC.

650 is a dangerous post turbo temperature assuming that this is correct. This means you could be running up to 800C / 1500F pre-turbine.

Engine damage due to excessive EGT is cumulative.

One of my favourite quotes on the subject is from Banks Power on the subject of pre-turbo EGT:

Over 1400º F., you’re usually gambling against a stacked deck and it’s only a matter of time until you lose. The higher the EGT, the shorter that time will be.

If post turbo is not a accurate mesurement, what is a safe post turbo tempreture to stay under?

100% safe = under 500 deg
running the gauntlet and getting her up to 600 for short periods, as long as you avoid spiking, will not hurt it in the short term but it will shorten the life of the motor. say instead of getting 500,000 kays out of it you may get 350000kays if driven right. You need to ask yourself (SELF?? how long am I going to own this vehicle and do I really care if it explodes)

Thanks for all the advise i received from the adove posts.

I think that i will have it backed of a bit (Boost and Fuel)
I have only hit 600 deg once, but 550 deg is fairly regular.
I live in the Hills (Dandenong Ranges) and my truck hits the 550 deg every time i drove home.

Thanks again

Grant.