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Burred head bolt
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 2:30 pm
by high n mighty
Three head bolts on a Holden Astra are being a pita, we continued with one until it was a mangled mess and after spending three hours have admitted defeat for the day.
We have forced a smaller socket over it, tried it with vice grips, welded a nut to it and yelled at it.
After welding a nut to it it has become soft and any attempt at grabbing it with vice grips is futile.
Can only think of drilling the head off the bolt and sliding the engine head over it.
Anyone else got other ideas??
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 4:12 pm
by badger
thread doctor
they get em out charge bugger all n if they fork it they fix it
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 4:19 pm
by rOd
badger wrote:thread doctor
they get em out charge bugger all n if they fork it they fix it
X2
Bro inlaw called them when he stuffed up trying to fix his bishi maggot. Not sure how much they charge.
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 4:46 pm
by F'n_Rover
I vote drill it, slide the head off - then remove with a set of stilsons.
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 5:35 pm
by amtravic1
I had a similar problem years ago with my mothers Mazda 808. It had a blown head gasket but the head bolt was corroded into the head. Ended up drilling the head of the bolt off then using timber wedges to wedge the head off. Being an alloy head this did it no good at all I needed to get a second hand head from the wreckers. The remaining bolt easily unscrewed from the block.
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 5:52 pm
by high n mighty
The head is going to the head doctor after a blown timing belt and twin cam....
I only became involved because these guys don't have the tools to do the job etc. I'm not sure if they are cashed up to pay a thread fella etc.
So drilling sounds good then??
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 9:24 pm
by rojak
Easiout.
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 11:01 pm
by Dooley
Would screw extractors work ?
I had a bolt that was stuck in the back of the zook, I was tightening it up and it's thread in the body was a little chocked with crap and rust. So it wasn't going in easily and due to it's age, the head of the bolt actually sheared off from the force of spinning it
Just drilled a hole in the middle of it and the screw extractors worked like a charm.
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 11:17 pm
by Goatse.AJ
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 11:55 pm
by high n mighty
I will give $100 to anyone who can pull this bolt out with an easyout. It will snap it.
The bet is there
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 12:31 am
by jugger
get a set of parrot beak stiltsons they grip every thing . i got a set form bunnings for $30 had to use it on shower tap bodys to change washers . tebodys where seriosly corroded . it got them of and i was two hands swinging off them and they didnt stip just held on and cracked the corroed tap body came out easy.
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 3:37 am
by Patroler
jugger wrote:get a set of parrot beak stiltsons they grip every thing . i got a set form bunnings for $30 had to use it on shower tap bodys to change washers . tebodys where seriosly corroded . it got them of and i was two hands swinging off them and they didnt stip just held on and cracked the corroed tap body came out easy.
I'd try that, and if still no go i.e. the metal is that soft, drill the top off, remove the head - that will relieve tension on the bolt probably making it easier to remove, then put the stillsons back on a bit lower, and or soak the bottom of the thread where the bolt goes into block overnight with some crc etc.
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:09 am
by rockcrawler31
would it work to get the head off by drilling the bolt head off then heating the block surrounding the bolt thread with an oxy before trying to undo it.
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:48 am
by Juzza
If you are good you might be able to weld a socket to the bolt head......
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:55 am
by Zute
drill the bolt.
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:11 am
by jugger
drop a stick of gellignite in the engin bay . it lossens most things.
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:57 am
by Barney7779
remove plates from car and push it down the road and ring bacon and report it stolen, then buy new car witn insurance payout
Drill head off bolt then slide head over the left over stud.
Once pressure is off bolt and head removed you will be able to undo the remaining part of the bolt by hand
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 10:04 am
by hillbilly
You are trying to get the stuck bolts out with the others still in and
torqued?
I wouldnt try the ezi out , unless you can get it into the threaded part
of the bolt.
Drill the bolt head off.
.
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 10:25 am
by high n mighty
Barney7779 wrote:remove plates from car and push it down the road and ring bacon and report it stolen, then buy new car witn insurance payout
Drill head off bolt then slide head over the left over stud.
Once pressure is off bolt and head removed you will be able to undo the remaining part of the bolt by hand
It has been suggested, she let the rego lapse because it isn't running thus it isn't insured
There has been a few car fires around here lately
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:32 pm
by zagan
no really sure if this would work ?
Grab a grinder then re surface the sides of the bolt head.
The other way would be to grab a 1mm cutter disc and turn the bolt into a flat head screwdriver bolt/head, probably not going to do much really
I'm sort of in the same bind got 2 screws where the top has sheared off and the thead is stuck inside the holes, don't want to re drill then tap.
Where are these screw doctors?
what are and where to buy the screw extractor tools?
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:56 pm
by rojak
If all else fails, drill it, weld it and retap it.
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 7:43 pm
by Guy
Look for a post by V8patrol in 4x4 tech about removing stuck bolts/nuts .. lots of useful stuff in there.
Cut the bolt head off, remove the head, smack the bolt a few times and then heat the area around the thread to expand the metal, apply a penetrating oil and weld a bolt to the top of the headless bolt .. hopefully all the mechanical shock and the fact the bolt is no longer stretched (like the lid on a jar, break the vacuum seal and it unscrews easily) .. It should come out no worries.
If not then try the eziouts etc and good luck following that course .. you will need it ..
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 7:44 pm
by Dooley
I got some screw extractors from bunnings IIRC.
Something like $30 for a pack of 5 sizes, without coresponding drill bits, kincrome brand.
They're just a tapered, coarse, reverse thread bolt thing.
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 7:48 pm
by bazooked
from experience dont even try an easy out u will only break it then u will be farked, then u will have to call someone to fix it and its goin to take longer, remove head of bolt them ur left with a fair bit of shank to play with.
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 7:49 pm
by Bad JuJu
Dooley wrote:I got some screw extractors from bunnings IIRC.
Something like $30 for a pack of 5 sizes, without coresponding drill bits, kincrome brand.
They're just a tapered, coarse, reverse thread bolt thing.
And harder than any drill bit when (not if) they snap. So you can't get these out...
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:29 pm
by Guy
Bad JuJu wrote:
And harder than any drill bit when (not if) they snap. So you can't get these out...
I had to drill through/out a snapped masonary bit a few weeks back, my trusty ARTU's took a while bit it got there.. (ever seen the guy at 4x4 shows drilling lots and lots of holes in a wiltshire files ... slow but work great)
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:03 pm
by high n mighty
As I said, $100 to anyone who can remove it with an easy out
*edit* Thanks for the advice and interest so far
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:13 pm
by zagan
Dooley wrote:I got some screw extractors from bunnings IIRC.
Something like $30 for a pack of 5 sizes, without coresponding drill bits, kincrome brand.
They're just a tapered, coarse, reverse thread bolt thing.
I'll have to check them out as the screws seem to be stuck in a bar in the front holds up the 8mm bash plate, 2 have broken only 1 old bolt holding the thing together now, that's why I want something that I can push the screw through etc.
need to fix it up proper other wise something bad will happen 1 day.
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:41 pm
by daveo
I'll have to check them out as the screws seem to be stuck in a bar in the front holds up the 8mm bash plate, 2 have broken only 1 old bolt holding the thing together now, that's why I want something that I can push the screw through etc.
need to fix it up proper other wise something bad will happen 1 day.
fix it! bad things do happen!
http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/d ... whoops.jpg
the remainder of my bashplate after it caught on a log when getting snatched out backwards. the screw on the corner that caught was missing.
Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 2:18 am
by Dooley
Bad JuJu wrote:Dooley wrote:I got some screw extractors from bunnings IIRC.
Something like $30 for a pack of 5 sizes, without coresponding drill bits, kincrome brand.
They're just a tapered, coarse, reverse thread bolt thing.
And harder than any drill bit when (not if) they snap. So you can't get these out...
Just got to be gentle, preferably use a tap wrench. A good old adjusting was used in this case but from what I've been told that tends to result in snapping.
Well the whole point is they are hard so can bite into other metals and make a thread, yet being hard makes them brittle.