Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I've serched and cant and exact answer.

2" spring lift lift, Snake 2" extended shackels on a SWB W/T zook.

What is the biggest tyre you can go WITHOUT moving the diffs foward / back ?

Cutting head light / front bumper bracket is OK but i dont want to cut heaps out of the body and trying to avoid moving the difs.
Bashing seams is also ok.

Thanks for any info you can give me.

Cheers Nick

31" , Maybe 32" if u do a body lift.

i have std springs 200mm shakels, sprung over diff ,reversed the centers in my rims on a nt lwb and 33,12.50,15 fit . looking at hilux diff so we can go 35s.... (not every day driver bush pig only) that is with no body lift yet .

I have a narrow track with 2" lifted springs and 1" lifted shackles and offset rims and i can hopefully fit 31's! But bigger than that i will need to move the diff!

CWBYUP wrote:I've serched and cant and exact answer.

2" spring lift lift, Snake 2" extended shackels on a SWB W/T zook.

What is the biggest tyre you can go WITHOUT moving the diffs foward / back ?

Cutting head light / front bumper bracket is OK but i dont want to cut heaps out of the body and trying to avoid moving the difs.
Bashing seams is also ok.

Thanks for any info you can give me.

Cheers Nick

I am curious why you dont want to move the diff, mostly only the front needs moving for bigger than 31's.
You can do it with standard springs in a totally reversable manner by redrilling the spring pad and plate.

My old 33 swampers (actually closer to a true 34) would fit perfectly on to the rear wheel arch just touching both front and rear corners of the panelwork with the full weight of the vehicle on the one corner an dthe other tyre in the air.

The front you will clear a 31( a true 30 perhaps) just, move the diff forward a few CM's you should be able to clear a 32 with some bumpstop extensions.

Zute wrote:31" , Maybe 32" if u do a body lift.

This is the correct answer, you will still have to bash the seams flat and probably the firewall too.

My advise get tyres SOLD as 31"s they are at best 30.5"

Simex ETs are measured MINUS the tread depth and are usually 1" BIGGER than sold the JTs are probably the same.

I want to enter comps but in standard classes like bushranger / son of trials and once you start moving the diffs they want to put you into the next class.

Its not about being competitive it more so i can get experience of competitions before i spend big dollars on a comp based rig.

Also i dont want to enter the GQ as i dont see the point in destroying it when i've got the zook.

Cheers Nick

CWBYUP wrote:I want to enter comps but in standard classes like bushranger / son of trials and once you start moving the diffs they want to put you into the next class.

Its not about being competitive it more so i can get experience of competitions before i spend big dollars on a comp based rig.

Also i dont want to enter the GQ as i dont see the point in destroying it when i've got the zook.

Cheers Nick

I doubt that they would even notice the diff being moved 20/25mm forward .. as the origional hole in the spring pad is covered by the spring ...

The offset of the rim you run and rim width will be a major factor. If you are trying to stay low but run a tall tyre look to a 7.50R16 or a 235 85 16. Because these are narrower than a 31, even through they are taller, they will fit better. The narrower rim they run will allow less scrub radius so you will have less clearance problems with the wheels turned.

The car will drive better on the narrower tyres too (really!)

I would move the diff forward about 25mm before I tried to fit anything or got the hammer out. the clearance problem will then be the headlight bucket, but IMHO It is less obvious, easier, and neater to open up the back of the headlight bucket area than it is to smash the firewall in with a FBH.

Steve.

ok so if you move the diff forward do you have to do anything with the driveshaft or steering? Cheers

Spacer for the tailshaft and I think thats it, but one of the gurus will confirm for you.

Nick

Nothing really, you may need a spacer on the drive shaft.. but you really aren't going that far forward (makes a very worthwhile difference though)