Page 1 of 1
2 inch body lift schedualed this weekend.
Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 9:29 pm
by Vanne
Hi, just got the 2 inch body lift kit from GASDRX

thanks matey

and have schedualed it for this weekend.
Now ive been under the car a bit today, and have taken a pretty good look. If there is anything ive missed, please let me know.
Right, ive got GASDRX MQ LWB kit. (looks real nice btw)
* my MQ has the wide wheel pack that comes with the factory side tray bars, and it looks like iam going to have to angle grind a pipe section off before being able to do the lift. (either that or take the whole side steps off)
so the list is as follows.
1. Remove bottom of the radiator shroud.
2. Bend clutch pipe line bracket down
3. Loosen steering pin (near the rubery joint)
4. undo bolts that hold body on atm
5. Lift the body. (whats the best way to do that?)
6. Put spacers in.
7. Put new bolts in and do them up.
7.1 remove 4x4 shift boot and saw a bit out to let the shifter go into 4x4.
(do i put the spacers on top of the rubbers that are there atm? or do i just chuck those away?)
8. Jack up car, and remove current wheels
9. Put Simex 32x10.5R15 on the car
10. grin
have i missed anything?
also, how loud will those tires be on the road? and how long can i axpect them to last on the road?
regards
Re: 2 inch body lift schedualed this weekend.
Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 9:32 pm
by bogged
Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 5:57 am
by mudmav
do yourself a favour and dont chop the floor to get it into 4wd either pay someone oto or heat up the sticks yourself and bend them as i can tell you from experience that you chop even a small whole in the floor or the lockout plate you get hot air pissing in through the floor and it becomes very annoying.
Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 2:53 pm
by matthewK
best way to lift the body is a hoist:)
on my GQ i just use my high lift jack at each corner watching very carfully as i lifted it,
as for the 4x4 stick i cut the bastard and re welded, little bit of a play but managed well
all in all good long day on your own

Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:07 pm
by michael a
I have a 3in body lift in mine i didnt bend the levers or chop the floor. It is a slight bit hard to get into reverse but i never have a problem just when others drive the car. Lift it first then look at levers.
Also look at your fuel tank filler lines ect... If wagon
Also I had to shorten my bottom rad hose as it was kinked.
Gook luck
Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 5:07 pm
by hillbilly
Disconnect your battery first.
Go real slow while jacking each corner checking for stretched bits
Mind your fingers.
Should get it done in a few hours, bar moving sliders/bull bar/rear bar.
ps. keep original body mounts in place
.
Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:55 pm
by Vanne
Thanks guys, any other hints i should be looking for? is it realy gonna be necessary to remove the carpet? and what about the wireloom under the pax seat? anyone have trouble with that?
so its definiatly keep the original spacers in there?
Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 5:53 am
by hillbilly
the loom under the pass. seat passes through the body and onto
the chassis. Just keep a careful eye on all these type of things
when jacking the body up.
Keep the original body mounts. If you remove theses your 2" bl will only be 1". It is standard procedure to keep the originals in place.
.
Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 3:49 pm
by Vanne
Ive got access to a hoist, what would be the best way to make use of that?
with a 4x4 recovery strap wrapped around the doors/roof? to a single point?
cheers and thanks for the good tips people

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 3:51 pm
by bogged
Vanne wrote:Ive got access to a hoist, what would be the best way to make use of that?
I just used a trolley jack and a few car stands.. undo all bolts first, then jack up front corner, put car stand in, then center, car stand, then rear.. finish one side. remove stands, then do other side.
you can do the lot with a rattle gun, and good trolley jack in round hour.. we did body mount rubbers replacement at Damiges place on my GQ in just on an hour.
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:53 am
by Vanne
Short update: Full day at it, and finally have the 2 inch spacers between it. It sure was waaaay harder than initially thought.
I had serious problems with the rear bolts, as the nuts had rusted off the body and thus had to angle grind a hole in the section to be able to get at it. Not a good thing.
Also had to angle grind a pipe section out of the side steps support beam to get to the middle bolts (underneath the front bottom where the seatbelts hook up. (ill take a few pics)
The lift itself was prety easy, but damm it was hard getting those damm rear bolts out.
going back in a minute to finish her off, (body is just sitting on the shassis with spacers and bolts) just have to puts the rubbers and the nuts back on.
During lift, however, it did shear off the plastic pipe that runs from the pre cleaner to the air cleaner, but i think that already had a cut in it.
The steering rod pulled out by about 1.5cm and is sweet. no drama's with any of the brake/clutch lines. With regards to the clutch line though does that /have/ to be re-fastened to that bracket? or can i just leave it loose?
havent re-conected up the battery yet, but hopefully all wiring survived.
Tell you something else, the tires ive got are only 32 inch (thats an inch over my scorps 31x10.5R15 but dammit if i would be able to fit something bigger under it than 32 inch. Makes me kind of wonder how you guys fit 35 inch creepys under your cars.
as it is, i still might even have to cut the gards to get enough clearance. but i guess will see that today when i fit the tires. (ill take a few pics)
so far, man, waaaay harder job than i initially though, but hopefully worth it.

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 11:44 am
by Nelso
It's an MQ. Chop the hell out of the guards and fit what ever size tyre you want. You just might have to space your wheels out so they don't hit your springs when you turn.
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 7:08 pm
by Vanne
Finally, its completed.. well i gotta put the front grill back on, but i can do that next weekend.
anyhows, here she is....
http://www.geocities.com/vannearcade/graphics/mq1.jpg
iam pretty happy with it atm, but those simex tires sure are loud if driven on the road. About those tires, how many kms could one expect out of them if driven on the road? (there 32 inchers, also if I drive 80/ as per the instruments in the car, cos its an oversize tire, am i actually going slower or quicker?
also, on those simex tires, what psi should i be running them at? (for on the road)
http://www.geocities.com/vannearcade/graphics/mq2.jpg
Actually glad there on Toy rims, as the standard nissan one would have been way in too close. this fits prefect, i did have to bend the back of the mudflap out of the way a bit though as it rubbed there at full lock.
http://www.geocities.com/vannearcade/graphics/mq3.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/vannearcade/graphics/mq4.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/vannearcade/graphics/mq5.jpg
Also, id like to thank use all for all the input

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 10:27 pm
by GASDRX
Vanne wrote:
I had serious problems with the rear bolts, as the nuts had rusted off the body and thus had to angle grind a hole in the section to be able to get at it. Not a good thing.
The lift itself was prety easy, but damm it was hard getting those damm rear bolts out.
Rear bolts in MQ though to GQs are normally always a bitch to get out.
Now go get the car dirty

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 2:39 pm
by Vanne
Main gears fit in fine, anyone have any pics of how much i should be cuttung away to let it slip into 4L? and whats the best way to do that?
also, since the lift, the pipe from the main air filter to the pre-filter sheared, so iam thinking of doing away with the pre-filter and grabbing a "Finer-filter" as a pre filter. any ideas on that?
regards
Oh, and cant wait to get her dirty.

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:23 pm
by hillbilly
bend the stick.(heat)
Pre-filter? Do you mean the one on the end of the snorkel?
If so, ditch it unless you're always in the dust.They look shit anyway.
Well done on the lift. They do tend to take longer than you think.
Pics??
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:32 pm
by hillbilly
hahaha.
just saw you are in alice.
might want to put a fly net on that pre-cleaner.
.
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:46 pm
by Vanne
haha, nah, i mean the one inside the engine bay. to the back left.
Havent got a snorkel on mine yet, and not too sure if iam gonna put one on.
I think iam just gonna run the standard air cleaner with a finer filter pre cleaner (as a fly catcher) .. man there bad atm. and the hanger i was doing the lift in was full of em :(
HillBilly, and idea what kind of kilometers ill get outa those tires if i continuesly run em on the road? are we talkin g like 20.000kms? or more like 5000kms?

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:09 pm
by shakes
I just left my clutch line dangling loose.
check it out though cause after around 6 months she split and I had a heap of fun driving home in peak hour with no clutch!
Simon