Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Gday, I have some oil on my rear left rim. Its coming through the slots on the Sunraysia wheel. It looks like fine lines coming from the centre of the rim. Its only a very small amount. I was wondering what is involved with replacing the rear axle seal. Or approx how much to get it done by a mechanic.

Thanks Mick

If it is the rear seal, you have big problems....more than just a new seal...why is oil coming from there?? blocked diff breather? then how did it get to the rim....through the brake, so new handbrake shoes, clean up disc, check wheel bearings for looseness.
Andrew

Here, read this, this question was asked not too long ago.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... highlight=

I just done this job recently. I reckon it was easy as, alot easier then the front bearings any way. Just a matter of removing the axles, brake caliper, disc rotor then the hub. I put all new bearings in and new axle seals in both sides. The hub bearing seal was leaking oil on my passenger side, thats how I noticed it. All the oil just when through the handbrake and out from insideof the rim. Id do both side while your at it. The drivers side bearing was full of oil, but it hadnt started to leak out.

Thanks for the replies guys, Out of curiosity Im assuming that I can remove the axle without even taking the wheel off, to access the flange gasket and oil seal. Is this so?

mike06 wrote:Thanks for the replies guys, Out of curiosity Im assuming that I can remove the axle without even taking the wheel off, to access the flange gasket and oil seal. Is this so?

yep, full floating axle. cool eh!?

instead of bashing to get the cone washers out, use a couple of M8x1.25 bolts to slowly pull the axle out. should end up with cone washers popping off

I find one sharp tap with a hammer pops out the cone washers. Tried the bolt method but this is not always successful. The important thing after reassemble is to check tension on the nuts on axle a few days then a few weeks later....

Thanks for the replies. On closer inspection Ive found that the oil is definately coming from the flange gasket. Ive tightened the nuts upto 33nm as per the manual. All the nuts were pretty loose so hopefully this will stop the leak.

Mick

mike06 wrote:Thanks for the replies. On closer inspection Ive found that the oil is definately coming from the flange gasket. Ive tightened the nuts upto 33nm as per the manual. All the nuts were pretty loose so hopefully this will stop the leak.

Mick

You have just tightened up the 6 nuts without changing the inner axle seal? The bottem line is that there shouldn't be oil at that flange gasket, it should stop at the inner axle seal. Oil will now be mixing in with the greased up wheel bearings which is no good and will eventually leak onto your handbrake shoes and discs brake pads.

oil mixing with grease not good! wheel bearings won't be lubed correctly will build up heat and eventually fail axle studs will break! failing wheel bearings can also do damage to diff housing.

you defanatly need to remove axle, brakes & hub clean all parts replace all seals & re pack wheel bearings.

good idea to change diff oil as well as it will be contaminated with grease.

Dents LN65 wrote:oil mixing with grease not good! wheel bearings won't be lubed correctly will build up heat and eventually fail axle studs will break! failing wheel bearings can also do damage to diff housing.

you defanatly need to remove axle, brakes & hub clean all parts replace all seals & re pack wheel bearings.

good idea to change diff oil as well as it will be contaminated with grease.

Ok looks like I got some work to do. Thanks for your tips.

I'd be definalty having a look at the bearings as the oil will most certainly gone through them. My hubs where full of diff oil on both sides - even thou oil had only leaked out from one side

Blown a seal

Reminds me of the joke about an eskimo and an icecream

stinger wrote:I find one sharp tap with a hammer pops out the cone washers. Tried the bolt method but this is not always successful. The important thing after reassemble is to check tension on the nuts on axle a few days then a few weeks later....

i started doing it this way because my axle flanges were getting buggered by too much hammering. it took a lot of effort to get the cone washers to unseat, but this be because of the detroit. when i last did my wheel bearings i ran a tap through the 2 holes to make life easier next time. helicoil could be an option too