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tail shaft probs.. too much front flex??

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 4:36 pm
by crankycruiser
Now that my 80 flexs so much in the fornt it appears to be popping the circlips off the unis in the double card joint in the front shaft...

i have jsut put a part time kit in so i have no real need for the double card anymore..

I have heard that u can get more angle outta normal unis compared with a D/C.?? is this true??

Image

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 6:37 pm
by bazooked
the dc i think from memory will take up about 25 deg?you can get more out of them but it involves a die grinder and modding the ball in the centre, obviously the bigger the uni the more angle u can run but u also run the risk of it binding aswell, are u running out of slip aswell or just popin clips?

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 6:45 pm
by crankycruiser
heaps of slip.. just poppin clips :?

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:20 pm
by Mousie
u runnign 5 link in that?

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:25 pm
by Nelso
It's a crosslink set up from Dobin Engineering. It's cheaper than those 3rd's arms you're running and has a bit better flex doesn't it? I know what I would be doing if I was starting again.

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:28 pm
by crankycruiser
Nelso wrote:It's a crosslink set up from Dobin Engineering. It's cheaper than those 3rd's arms you're running and has a bit better flex doesn't it? I know what I would be doing if I was starting again.
its not a dobbins x link,,
its sumthing i built.. they dont like it when ya call it a xlink :cool:

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:30 pm
by CWBYUP
Cranky actually made this "Cranky Link" set up himself from memory.

Nick

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:32 pm
by crankycruiser
CWBYUP wrote:Cranky actually made this "Cranky Link" set up himself from memory.

Nick
dead right mate.! :D

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 3:04 pm
by lay80n
DC joints are more useful at eliminating vibration from out of phase uni's, as if you have no angle in your lowe uni, the two uni's in the DC will cancel out each others accel and decel phases. To get more operation angle, go single uni's and modify the uni for more clearence. Of go offset uni's like som buggy's.

Layto....

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 3:43 pm
by Mousie
hermmm car to ellaberate on how u made that thingo/

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 3:44 pm
by professor
Nelso wrote:It's a crosslink set up from Dobin Engineering. It's cheaper than those 3rd's arms you're running and has a bit better flex doesn't it? I know what I would be doing if I was starting again.
yeah its a copy of Glenn's Xlink


as for the drive shaft if you arn't running constant 4x4 why not copy>>>...sorry I mean buy one of Glenns CV drive shafts. they are excellent for the high angle drive line setups like yours and very strong Too.

http://www.dobbinengineering.com/products.htm

Chad

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 6:49 pm
by crankycruiser
professor wrote:
Nelso wrote:It's a crosslink set up from Dobin Engineering. It's cheaper than those 3rd's arms you're running and has a bit better flex doesn't it? I know what I would be doing if I was starting again.
yeah its a copy of Glenn's Xlink :roll:


as for the drive shaft if you arn't running constant 4x4 why not copy>>>...sorry I mean buy one of Glenns CV drive shafts. they are excellent for the high angle drive line setups like yours and very strong Too.

http://www.dobbinengineering.com/products.htm

Chad
hey mate.. i think i'll do this one myself too...

shouldnt bag ppl out for havin a go and building stuff themselves.. we're not all made of money :finger:

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 6:50 pm
by crankycruiser
lay80n wrote:DC joints are more useful at eliminating vibration from out of phase uni's, as if you have no angle in your lowe uni, the two uni's in the DC will cancel out each others accel and decel phases. To get more operation angle, go single uni's and modify the uni for more clearence. Of go offset uni's like som buggy's.

Layto....
thanks mate thats exactly the info i was after

very much appreciated! :D

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 7:31 pm
by professor
crankycruiser wrote:
professor wrote:
Nelso wrote:It's a crosslink set up from Dobin Engineering. It's cheaper than those 3rd's arms you're running and has a bit better flex doesn't it? I know what I would be doing if I was starting again.
yeah its a copy of Glenn's Xlink :roll:


as for the drive shaft if you arn't running constant 4x4 why not copy>>>...sorry I mean buy one of Glenns CV drive shafts. they are excellent for the high angle drive line setups like yours and very strong Too.

http://www.dobbinengineering.com/products.htm

Chad
hey mate.. i think i'll do this one myself too...

shouldnt bag ppl out for havin a go and building stuff themselves.. we're not all made of money :finger:
Not bagging ppl at all and i dont appreciate the finger eather.


unfoutunatly i cant read minds or spell for that matter so as for giving advice I see it straight forward.

Poor men pay twice.

and as for cost of build ups I know how it works and there is no way i could afford to pay someone to build a rig as good as mine and if you think im rich i'v got you fooled

I'm truly offended



Chad

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 8:43 pm
by Reddo
Check out some ag equipment too. You can buy all the stuff you need to make up a shaft from ag equip suppliers, including wider UJs. Maybe worth a look at, eg., Tas Farm Equipment, Southern Machinery etc. Truck wreckers too.......or CV it

Keep us posted Ray, your work is always inspiring...and good for the 4wd industry

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 2:50 am
by crankycruiser
professor wrote:

Not bagging ppl at all and i dont appreciate the finger eather.


unfoutunatly i cant read minds or spell for that matter so as for giving advice I see it straight forward.

Poor men pay twice.

and as for cost of build ups I know how it works and there is no way i could afford to pay someone to build a rig as good as mine and if you think im rich i'v got you fooled

I'm truly offended



Chad
i did say u were loaded..

but i am saying i cant afford to just go buy things like x links or cv shafts and thats why i have a go at doin stuff myself, my truck would be a 1/4 of wat it is if eveytime sumtheing came up that needed fixing or modded i payed to buy the bits or get it done...

so it sonds like we are on the same page..

u dont like the finger and i dont like u rolling ur eyes at my cranky link etc..

BTW poor man does pay twice, but he ends up wiser than the rich man

Ray ;)

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 6:54 am
by professor
crankycruiser wrote:
professor wrote:

Not bagging ppl at all and i dont appreciate the finger eather.


unfoutunatly i cant read minds or spell for that matter so as for giving advice I see it straight forward.

Poor men pay twice.

and as for cost of build ups I know how it works and there is no way i could afford to pay someone to build a rig as good as mine and if you think im rich i'v got you fooled

I'm truly offended



Chad
i did say u were loaded..

but i am saying i cant afford to just go buy things like x links or cv shafts and thats why i have a go at doin stuff myself, my truck would be a 1/4 of wat it is if eveytime sumtheing came up that needed fixing or modded i payed to buy the bits or get it done...

so it sonds like we are on the same page..

u dont like the finger and i dont like u rolling ur eyes at my cranky link etc..

BTW poor man does pay twice, but he ends up wiser than the rich man

Ray ;)
in any rate you will find it hard to get the uni to operate at the angle you want without complications. tail shafts can be expensive to build up and value for dollar, Dobbins CV drive shaft are right on the money and they work.no need to reinvent the wheel.

Although it doesn't seam like the xlink is much but we spent 4 years developing and resesrching and had outlayed a fair risk and a fair few dollars for paitents for a product that was designed by one of the most talented minds ever to grace the engineering community(Glenn Dobbin), so you could probably can understand why i get pissed when the concept is simpified and degraded.yes yours is a Cheep copy and you can probably make it in the back yard cheeper but as with most things when you want a quality product that is backed you go buy it.

Chad

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 9:58 am
by Shadow
lol

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 4:56 pm
by badger
if it took glenn dobbin 4 years to develop something that simple i doubt he is one of "the most talented minds ever to grace the engineering community)
:P


either way i doubt crankys link is any weaker and obviously works so why knock him for having a go. all you are doing is making yourself look like spoilt sport.


ps if it were me i would invest the coin to get a custom front shaft made if i had this problem as i dont think its something that can be made at home. but id never ever pay someone 1000 bucs or more for a lump of plate steel i have to fit myself

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 5:16 pm
by professor
:rofl:

yep i'm am spoilt sport. Am I good at it??


you all know what i'm getting at.

somtimes I wonder why there was a need to ask the question on the tail shaft in the first place when clearly the answer was already known.

have fun let us know how you fixed the problem.

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 5:45 pm
by F'n_Rover
professor wrote::rofl:

yep i'm am spoilt sport. Am I good at it??


you all know what i'm getting at.

somtimes I wonder why there was a need to ask the question on the tail shaft in the first place when clearly the answer was already known.

have fun let us know how you fixed the problem.
So have all the goat threads have been replaced by gloat threads ??????????

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 5:51 pm
by professor
F'n_Rover wrote:
professor wrote::rofl:

yep i'm am spoilt sport. Am I good at it??


you all know what i'm getting at.

somtimes I wonder why there was a need to ask the question on the tail shaft in the first place when clearly the answer was already known.

have fun let us know how you fixed the problem.
So have all the goat threads have been replaced by gloat threads ??????????
I'll do a search!!!!

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 10:39 pm
by Red_Zook
i beleve chad is right in this one!
actualy he always is
there is a reason why it took them 4 years to develop...
it is done properly...
sorry ray but cv's are the go!!

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 10:51 pm
by Bluey
i don't want to get involved in a bitch fight here, but i will say that dobbin engineering came up with it first. who cares how long it took, its not like anyone else thought of it before

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 1:23 am
by crankycruiser
Red_Zook wrote:i beleve chad is right in this one!
actualy he always is
there is a reason why it took them 4 years to develop...
it is done properly...
sorry ray but cv's are the go!!
WTF HAS ANY OF THIS CRAP GOT TO DO WITH MY FRONT SHAFT!?????

FFS cant even ask questions on here anymore :roll:

I thought this was a forum so u could ask questions and LEARN stuff.. not one big bloody for sale section!

But i now no BECAUSE I ASKED THE QUESTION that i wil prolly have to get a CV shaft..

very simple thanks guys.............................

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 1:37 am
by gun100
nothing its clear to me that half the ppl on here have nothing better to do than carry on like children grow up and get on with it

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:51 am
by std80
man, i know any publicity is good advertising, but, im not sure this is doing much for Dobbin engineering. i think it would have been better to accept someones own ability and maybe let the guy help your business out as he might have a couple of good ideas. I think you are best to let a long running argument go, get on with your product development and let a wise twice paying backyarder get on with his truck..

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 11:16 am
by Nelso
Driveshaft Engineering in Sydney do a double carden that they can get 45 degrees out of or you could also fit a Big Berther (sp?) DC joint or a CV joint or offset uni's. Any of these will give you the flex you need. It just depends how fast you want to drive in 4wd. If its just for crawling the offset uni's like a lot of the buggies run would be the cheapest. Someone posted a picture and contact about halfway down this thread. http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopi ... offset+uni If you want to drive fast in 4wd the Driveshaft Eng DC might be the one you want, they are a bit dearer but they run well at high speeds. It's probably worth checking all options.

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 12:44 pm
by Red_Zook
crankycruiser wrote:
Red_Zook wrote:i beleve chad is right in this one!
actualy he always is
there is a reason why it took them 4 years to develop...
it is done properly...
sorry ray but cv's are the go!!
WTF HAS ANY OF THIS CRAP GOT TO DO WITH MY FRONT SHAFT!?????

FFS cant even ask questions on here anymore :roll:

I thought this was a forum so u could ask questions and LEARN stuff.. not one big bloody for sale section!

But i now no BECAUSE I ASKED THE QUESTION that i wil prolly have to get a CV shaft..

very simple thanks guys.............................
sorry ray. was just saying!! haha
speek to griceys dad he had one in his old LJ80
was saying he had issues with boots!
im going to have to do the same in my front.
Phil

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 12:45 pm
by jessie928
who cares who came up with it first?

someone came up with a SPOA first, and a 5 link firSt.
beleive it or not, someone actually even came up with a god forbid TUBE BUGGY first,
and then you have the first V* into a patrol, and then the firt bodylift, the first 6" lift, first castor plate, the first DROP BOX, the first caster bushes.

you get my picture
GET OVER IT.

if someone can make it, and they have the time, they will make it.

I can bet that someone will market the same thing as the xlink in the near future under a different name also.

if you can afford the full patent on the concept, and you can afford the legal backbone to support that patent in ALL countries around the world, then good on you aswell, because untill you actually get the patent, and the dosh ( not patent pending) then i am sure there will be alot of these things poping up here and there.

also, to those that think its expensive, compare them to cast radius arms.

while we are on d subject someone give me a set of 3deg, 4deg 5deg 6deg radius arms and i will copy and sell them for half the price :)

Jes