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HJ60 Diff. To rebuild or not?
Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:39 pm
by Shadow
Ive got a HJ60 with LSD done 420thousand. The pinion has about 2-3mm play in it (lateral play, not rotational) which is not good and it sounded like a mack truck on de-acceleration (which is why i went looking for a problem).
Anyway, ive dropped it out, and the gears look 100% to me, cant get a good look at the pinion gear but it looks good looking down through the carrier.
There is movement in the pinion, but im thinking this will just be bearings and there shouldnt be any damage to the pinion itself. I didnt drive long while it was making the noise.
Ive priced a full rebuild at $660, but is it worth a full rebuild if the gears look 100%?
Is it worth a full rebuild in light of the fact its done 420thousand?
What sort of damage should it cost to just replace the pinion bearings?
Any opinions on what direction i should take?
Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:41 pm
by pcman
a bearing kit for the center/pinion is around $90 i think
i paid $50 to have them fitted and the center setup in my fj40 (same centers)
so 660 is a joke im guessing that includes rebuilding the lsd and from what ive read thats pointless with a toyota lsd as they dont last anyway
Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:45 pm
by joel HJ60
I read in 4WD Monthly some time ago a good article that stripped the Toyota and Nissan LSD's apart and it showed how inept and shit the Toyota ones are. I have never driven anything with an LSD but always here people bagging the Toyo ones and it must be for poor build quality.
Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 10:32 pm
by Shadow
pcman wrote:a bearing kit for the center/pinion is around $90 i think
i paid $50 to have them fitted and the center setup in my fj40 (same centers)
so 660 is a joke im guessing that includes rebuilding the lsd and from what ive read thats pointless with a toyota lsd as they dont last anyway
660 includes shiming the lsd only not rebuilding it.
660 includes lapping etc of the crown wheel and pinion.
Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 10:39 pm
by plowy
yeah the toyota lsd is pretty shit , the nissan lsd does work really well and they last too
instead of putting the shitty lsd back in look at investing in a locker even if you buy a cheap 2nd hand diff to keep the rig mobile n put the other money you were going to spend on the lsd towards a locker
Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 6:05 am
by dybes
superior engineering sell lockers for about $620 i think ...
the auto type ones not air lockers
Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 11:31 am
by Ruffy
dybes wrote:superior engineering sell lockers for about $620 i think ...
the auto type ones not air lockers
That's not going to fix any of his problems though.
If the gears are ok then there's probably no need to go to the extra expense. Just get somebody competant to look at the diff a give you an answer.
Cheers, Dan
Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 1:00 pm
by DIRTY ROCK STAR
when you first rebuild a toyo LSD they go hard... but that doesnt last long at all....
Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 7:54 pm
by Shadow
plowy wrote:yeah the toyota lsd is pretty shit , the nissan lsd does work really well and they last too
instead of putting the shitty lsd back in look at investing in a locker even if you buy a cheap 2nd hand diff to keep the rig mobile n put the other money you were going to spend on the lsd towards a locker
cant find a cheap second hand one
wreckers want $400+ for s/h
would be cheaper for me to get the bearings replaced.
Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 10:08 am
by RED60
Tho the crown n pinion may look good, if you've had play in the bearings for some time (which you probably have), the c & p will also be worn. You cant have that much play and not have misalignment/mesh probs. Start again with good 2nd hand.
Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 10:35 am
by Shadow
RED60 wrote:Tho the crown n pinion may look good, if you've had play in the bearings for some time (which you probably have), the c & p will also be worn. You cant have that much play and not have misalignment/mesh probs. Start again with good 2nd hand.
havent driven it long while it was noisy so i rekon the CW&P will be pretty good.
however, most(all) places ive rung have said pretty much the same thing, if one bearing is gonbe the others wont be far away, and the majrotiy of the cost is in the bearings and the setup of the diff, lapping the CW&P is only a small part, so there is little point just replacing the bearings if its going to cost me $500, might aswell just get the whole rebuild done.
$650
Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 1:47 pm
by chuckles
if youve got it out give it a good clean with a solvent /degreaser find yourself some prussian blue and check the backlash on it (have a look in your manual) couple of big scrwedrivers on the crown, any freeplay keep checking till you find the prob even if you have to pull it apart, then you can check bearings, races , pinion, pinion preload crush tube etc rebuilding a diff isnt that hard if youve got a workshop manual in front of you.the only specialist tool youll need is a magnetic block and a dial gauge If it all becomes a bit to much take to a specialst at least youll know whats wrong with it. cwp,s arnt lapped like a valve the only adjustment is left / right on the cw and in / out on the pinion . give it a slash itll give you some idea of whats wrong with it, its like the old black art of diesel pumps/ injectors. people are shit scared of them just like gearboxs / diffs
shayne
Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 2:01 pm
by RED60
chuckles wrote:if youve got it out give it a good clean with a solvent /degreaser find yourself some prussian blue and check the backlash on it (have a look in your manual) couple of big scrwedrivers on the crown, any freeplay keep checking till you find the prob even if you have to pull it apart, then you can check bearings, races , pinion, pinion preload crush tube etc rebuilding a diff isnt that hard if youve got a workshop manual in front of you.the only specialist tool youll need is a magnetic block and a dial gauge If it all becomes a bit to much take to a specialst at least youll know whats wrong with it. cwp,s arnt lapped like a valve the only adjustment is left / right on the cw and in / out on the pinion . give it a slash itll give you some idea of whats wrong with it, its like the old black art of diesel pumps/ injectors. people are shit scared of them just like gearboxs / diffs
shayne
Hell yeah, give it a go, but I won't be surprised if you can't get good pattern. You can't shag anything havin' a go on the bench.
Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 5:55 pm
by Shadow
pcman wrote:a bearing kit for the center/pinion is around $90 i think
i paid $50 to have them fitted and the center setup in my fj40 (same centers)
so 660 is a joke im guessing that includes rebuilding the lsd and from what ive read thats pointless with a toyota lsd as they dont last anyway
pcman was it someone you know that fitted the bearings?
Does anyone know someone in brisbane that does diff's? perhaps mates rates for OL members ?
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 8:34 pm
by Shadow
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-LANDCRUIS ... dZViewItem
$185 for the bearings and what looks like a couple of special tools for the job.
It really doesnt look like that tough a job, other than the "fine art" of setting up the tooth contact and backlash etc.
i just dont wanna part with $650 if i can help it :(
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:01 pm
by jugger
DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:when you first rebuild a toyo LSD they go hard... but that doesnt last long at all....
2hours on a medium trip was how long mine lasted in my lux.
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:02 pm
by jugger
Shadow wrote:plowy wrote:yeah the toyota lsd is pretty shit , the nissan lsd does work really well and they last too
instead of putting the shitty lsd back in look at investing in a locker even if you buy a cheap 2nd hand diff to keep the rig mobile n put the other money you were going to spend on the lsd towards a locker
cant find a cheap second hand one
wreckers want $400+ for s/h
would be cheaper for me to get the bearings replaced.
ring fester i paid $250 for a 60 series one a few years ago when i had a 60 . make sure u get a front one cause they hardly do any work.
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:31 pm
by Ruggers
its not bearings sounds like you colpaseable spacer has colapsed when you put new bearings in try to get a solid spacer for it and have it shimed to the right preload. these things always go and is what is giving you up and down movement usally asscoiated with an oil leak out of the pinion seal.
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:32 pm
by Ruggers
its not bearings sounds like you colpaseable spacer has colapsed when you put new bearings in try to get a solid spacer for it and have it shimed to the right preload. these things always go and is what is giving you up and down movement usally asscoiated with an oil leak out of the pinion seal.
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 7:21 pm
by Frankenyota
Hey Shadow have a 60 series centre for sale, PM sent.
Matt