Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys and gals,

I was fourbying down off heathcote road and i was going up some rocks and I noticed my gearstick was really moving towards me under acceleration and when the weight of the car was shifting when going over bumps etc.

When i rev the engine while looking under the bonnet I can't tell which mount is broken or loose.

Any help would be great

Thanks

Dave.

It will be the one on the left had side.
I am on my third mount.
It is because this mount in under tension when accelerating or under high torque loads. They are about $75 Aus from Daihatsu. Just a tip, when replacing the left on make sure you loosen the right hand one otherwise you will break it too. I did the first time

Thanks for that I thought if it was any of them it would be the left one. Did you just put a jack under the sump when you changed yours...

Either under the sump with a piece of timber to spread the load or on the bottom of the bell housing right where it bolts to the motor. Can't quite remember.

Be very careful when using the sump to jack the engine up- it's very easy to end up with a concave sump!

Try the bell housing first.

When you replace your mount, consider adding an extra 'chain' or something that if it does break again, there will be noticably less movement with engine torque !!

I think this idea has been suggested in another thread !!

When mine was standard, I went through at least 3 of them....always the LHS !!

Rather than weld a chain on I was thinking of clamping some sort of strong flexable material (canvass or kevlar etc) between the chassis and engine mount then bringing it up and clamping it between the mount and the engine. That way when the mount pulls apart the material will take most of the strain. And no rattling chains.
What do guys think? Is it worth a go?

Another option could be to fabricate something out of metal so that if the rubber in the mount lets go it can only separate so far.

It's a bit hard to explain, but a lot of mounts are made like this from the factory- the rubber normally absorbs the movement, and if it lets go the mount can only seperate a bit further before the metal limiters interlock. That way there's no extra noise until the mount actually lets go and you can still keep driving.

Hopefully that spiel makes some sort of sense!?

I did buy a mount from repco a few years back that was like that. It didn't endup fitting the roza. I still have it somewhere (amongst all the other Feroza parts scattered about) if I find it I will take a photo.

I think i have solved my problem of continualy breaking engine mounts.
I got an old piece of seatbelt material and clamped it round the new mount when i put it in. See photos. Haven't broken one yet.

As installed.

whats the seatbelt material spose to do?

SimplyPV wrote:whats the seatbelt material spose to do?

If the rubber mount breaks it limits the amount the engine can move. (ie you can keep driving and replace it later on.)

Just when your underneath replacing the engine mount, have a look at the gear box mount aswell, as a chance it may have broken aswell with the excessive movement.

Have seen the seatbelt method used before, and it works. Worht doing if ya giving it heaps off-road
Layto....

hmmm... interesting.. maybe i should do that mod??

The strap stops the mount from 'streching' to far and tearing the rubber when under high torque ie. 1st gear low range. You can contine to drive with a broken rubber mount with out the strap because of the design.

yeah you could.. but i would advise against it... thats what cause my engine to throw a rod.... so if its broken.. dont drive TOO long with it like that.... change it asap...

I can't see why a broken engine mount would cause you engine to 'throw a leg out of bed'. The first one i broke i left in there for about a year before i replaced it. Normal driving was fine, just had to go easy in low range when off road.

well thats the thing... i WAS going hard..... 3rd gear... 6,000 rpm, pulling a 1700 lb trailer climbing a steep grade... yep... engine mount shredded and threw a rod before i could even get off the road.... roza was down and out for about 6 months, then i got her going again with an applause donk... runs great now...

Nice mod. Makes you wonder why they don't come fitted standard.

Clint wrote:I think i have solved my problem of continualy breaking engine mounts.
I got an old piece of seatbelt material and clamped it round the new mount when i put it in. See photos. Haven't broken one yet.

ok guys so heres a question. I have 2 broken ones at the moment which is why the fan shroud keeps breaking....ANYWAYS.....what do you reckon the reaction would be from the mechanic if I asked them to do something along those lines before they put my new engine mounts in? Reckon they would do it?

Kell wrote:

Clint wrote:I think i have solved my problem of continualy breaking engine mounts.
I got an old piece of seatbelt material and clamped it round the new mount when i put it in. See photos. Haven't broken one yet.

ok guys so heres a question. I have 2 broken ones at the moment which is why the fan shroud keeps breaking....ANYWAYS.....what do you reckon the reaction would be from the mechanic if I asked them to do something along those lines before they put my new engine mounts in? Reckon they would do it?

Dontr see why not. Just tell him its a regular occurance, and can we come up with an idea for limiting teh damage... say this mod.

ok how do you know if you have a broken engine mount ?
heres a picture of mine
looks like the guy who had it before me put a chain on this one .

Usually you can see where the rubber has torn away and the gearstick will come towards you (RHS of car) when under hi torque loads. eg. low range up a hill.

if your still unsure... just support the engine via jack or whatever, unbolt the mount, take itout, and inspect it..... only to be completely sure....

Just got my engine mounts done - genuine parts are $84.35 per engine mount incase anyone wanted to know