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Alternator Upgrade
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 10:43 pm
by HotFourOk
Hey everyone,
After installing all my crap on the truck I knew it was time to upgrade ye ol' generator... After going to the auto electrician I found out that I cannot fit a second alternator due to space restrictions, and an upgraded alternator (~100amps) is basically extinct, due to the vacuum pump located on the rear of the stock unit. He looked through all of his catalogues and couldnt find one suitable.
Has anyone with a Rocky upgraded the stock alternator and if so, what the hell did you use?
I thought along the lines of what the Patrols boys upgrade to, but the later models had a seperate vacuum pump bolted onto the motor, hence the alternator didnt need to incorporate this.
Some of the guys with early GQs I think had a vacuum pump on the alternator, but I'm not overly sure...
I even thought about the alternator from the 1.7L Opel Astra Diesels... they are 100A and have a vacuum pump..... (But I'm not sure what is needed for an alternator to be compatible)
Ideas anyone?
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 10:48 pm
by jav
I think you can get a after market patrol one with pump pretty cheap, I'll find out this week and let you know.
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 11:10 pm
by HotFourOk
jav wrote:I think you can get a after market patrol one with pump pretty cheap, I'll find out this week and let you know.
Ah ok, sweet as mate, I wasnt sure. Thanks for that.
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 7:32 am
by tabrocky
I upgraded from the factory one (40-45A) to a OEX 60A one. The biggest difference I found was turfing the old electro/mechanical regulator for an electronic one. Much smoother output voltage and less problems.
Was a straight bolt up job except I wanted to use the old pulley, so I had to make up a bush to go on the shaft. Fitting the hoses was also a bit of a pain but I made it all work in the end.
Would I do it again? Probably not.
I don't think the quality of the aftermarket stuff (Bosch excluded) is up to the quality of the Denso stuff.
I'm looking at getting the alternator in the new Rocky re-wound which should enable me to get at least the same out of it as the aftermarket one. It's in better condition than the other one.
Also I had to restrict the oil feed to the new one as it allowed to much oil into the vacuum pump and reduced engine oil pressure. Original one has the oil feed directly into the bronze bush rear bearing which restricts the oil flow to the pump, where it gets exhuasted into the sump.
The new one has ball bearings both ends.
Cheers.
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 8:13 pm
by RockyF75
Would one off a delta tipper truck be any good? Anyone looked into this before?
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 8:28 pm
by HotFourOk
I don't think the old trucks would have too many electrics to worry about Nath... Most newer cars that have heaps of electric gear have higher output alternators.
TabRocky, The F78s come with a 60A alternator stock, so I spose thats 20 amps better than what you guys started with...
Bad thing is, you could have used an alternator from my model without all that stuffing around..
Do many places 'rewind' alternators?... I hear a few people talking about getting it done.. Would be much easier than trying to find/fit a new one.
Where did you buy your electronic voltage regulator from and was it easy to install?
Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 10:50 am
by jav
Seen the mate, thinks he paid $280 for a 80amp with vacum pump, thinks it is for a gq and can't renember were he got, I know fat lot of use that is, sorry.
Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 4:32 pm
by Rangie Thing
I wonder if anybody makes a stand alone electric vacum pump, that would make finding a alt abit easyer .
Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 9:47 pm
by HotFourOk
Rangie Thing wrote:I wonder if anybody makes a stand alone electric vacum pump, that would make finding a alt abit easyer .
Yeah, in the other thread someone said one big enough was about $600
Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 12:22 pm
by tabrocky
I reckon you'll probably find the alternators are the same in both the F75 and F78. The only difference is the latter ones use a different pully. This is because the timing belt arrangment on the newer DL motors causes all of the fanbelts to sit further forward, hence requirng the pully on the alternator to sit further forward in order to maintain the same engine mounts.
I checked the daihatsu manual just a minute ago and it states a maximum current of 45A @ 3500rpm. This manual covered the DL-42 & DL-52 engines in the last of the F75's (1992)... not that it really matters.
There are many places that do rewinding. Just need to find one locally.
I bought the electronic regulator from Ingram in Adelaide. I think it was also in the OEX catalogue. It is a direct "bolt-up, plug-in" replacment for the factory one. It has a fuse inside for protection and a small trim-pot to adjust the alternator output voltage. I had to reduce mine slightly after I put it in as it was overcharging the battery a bit. If you adjust it, make sure to set the revs at about 2000 rpm and put the headlights on to provide a bit of load. Then adjust the battery volts to 13.8 with a multimeter.
Some web links:
http://www.ingram.com.au/cats/oexenduro ... 05%202.pdf
The HXA001 is the one I bought:
http://www.ingram.com.au/cats/oexenduro ... 5%2062.pdf
http://www.oex.com.au/index.html
Cheers