Outer Limits 4x4 Board

just tryin to save sum money, gonna struggle to jack the body up arnt i? and gotta find all the points that the the bodys bolted onto? anyone done it?

Not hard to diy but best get advice from someone that has done the same model car as yours so you can get all the parts required ready then fit all in one go instead of getting stuck halfway thru and being unable to get to work on Monday ! A bottle jack and long lengths of timber help.

Are you sure you want to? It's one of the most overrated of all mods.

Fine if you've thought about the pros and cons... just wondering though.

x2 on what chimp said. Get suspension lift (easy DIY if its 2" or so), and if you need more guard clearance, angle grinders are cheap @ bunnings

2" or more?, dont forget to unclip the handbrake cable, my mates (turbo tonka) got a 94 dual cab lux and the handbrake cable snapped after the body lift, when he ordered a new cable the sales guy said it happens a lot! I dont know much about it, im a Sierra driver but im all for you haven a go

Gotta agree with the questions. Body lifts only lift the body - the chassis/engine/gearbox is still at the same height. Front and rear bumpers are lifted, which can help the approach & departure angles (probably not if you've got leaf springs) and door sills are higher too, but chassis rails still limit your ramp-over.

I did my body lift to make room for a larger long-range tank. I ended up with 120 litres instead of 105, but as stock was 75, I'm happy. I only went for 33's because I could - without the bodylift, I'd probably be running 31s, or scraping guards on 32s.

Also remember that some vehicles are easier to lift than others.

As suggested, do your homework first - which you're doing.

Good luck,

Scott

-Scott- wrote:Gotta agree with the questions. Body lifts only lift the body - the chassis/engine/gearbox is still at the same height. Front and rear bumpers are lifted, which can help the approach & departure angles (probably not if you've got leaf springs) and door sills are higher too, but chassis rails still limit your ramp-over.

I did my body lift to make room for a larger long-range tank. I ended up with 120 litres instead of 105, but as stock was 75, I'm happy. I only went for 33's because I could - without the bodylift, I'd probably be running 31s, or scraping guards on 32s.

Also remember that some vehicles are easier to lift than others.

As suggested, do your homework first - which you're doing.

Good luck,

Scott

Bumpers will be bolted to the chassis so they wont be lifted.

Loanrangie wrote:

-Scott- wrote:Gotta agree with the questions. Body lifts only lift the body - the chassis/engine/gearbox is still at the same height. Front and rear bumpers are lifted, which can help the approach & departure angles (probably not if you've got leaf springs) and door sills are higher too, but chassis rails still limit your ramp-over.

I did my body lift to make room for a larger long-range tank. I ended up with 120 litres instead of 105, but as stock was 75, I'm happy. I only went for 33's because I could - without the bodylift, I'd probably be running 31s, or scraping guards on 32s.

Also remember that some vehicles are easier to lift than others.

As suggested, do your homework first - which you're doing.

Good luck,

Scott

Bumpers will be bolted to the chassis so they wont be lifted.

I can't speak for anybody else, but bumpers are designed to align with the body. Lifting the body without lifting the bumpers looks silly.

Lifting the bumpers to match the body lift looks better, and generally improves the approach and departure angles.

Rovers may be different.

Rovers are different, looking good was never a design requirement.

just cruizin' wrote:Rovers are different, looking good was never a design requirement.

GOLD

Hi im about to do the same to a 90 mod surf so very similar i will be doing mine monday
i can tell you after that

regards

thanx soundtech......had a good look under her yesterday and got a good idea of wat needs to happen and yes i need to adjust my bullbar aswell

i allready hav 2'' suspension lift just going another 2 inches to fit sum 33's

Trim your guards. No need to put unnecessary stress on everything and raise your COG just to clear tyres.

If you wanna body lift no probs its pretty easy.
It makes attaching sliders to the chasis easier too.

Things to look out for that go between body and chasis and may need modification include.

Handbrake cable will need to loosen
Speedo cable (normally OK)
Clutch cable/line (normally OK)
Brake lines between booster and chasis
wiring - check not going to be too tight
fuel lines - check not going to be too tight
Fuel Filler hose - check not going to be too tight usually WILL need slipping both ends
Steering shaft may need a extention or spacer
Main Earth connection to the chasis or engine from the body any little earth points for lights etc
Will need to raise front & rear bar - not essetial but looks stoopid if you dont
Clearances for shifters into the body
Any mechanical gearbox linkages that attach to the body
rear brake proportioning lever may need adjusting if it mounts to the body near rear diff

I think thats it... just check nothing is getting stretched or tweaked