Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Anyone using a bolt in A frame in the rear of a GQ?

Is there any modification to the lower control arms? Do u triangulate them a little or whats the deal?
Can i get some details and pics of them flexing and what u've done to the rear end...

Cheers

I made one but took it out after a year as it was too soft and flexy in the rear for the standard front end. It's more balanced with the set up I now have. If you were going to run a five link or xlink in the front it would work fine, but you are better off changing the chassis mount positions or move your axle back to run longer length arms.

Here it is.


It flexed exactly the same as it does now as they are the same shocks. It was just a edit:lower roll axis so it wanted to fall over more.

If your roll axis is closer to your centre of gravity height, wouldnt it resist leaning over on side hills ??

Layto....

Sorry, I meant lower roll axis.

Nelso wrote:Sorry, I meant lower roll axis.

All good

Layto....

Nelso wrote:I made one but took it out after a year as it was too soft and flexy in the rear for the standard front end. It's more balanced with the set up I now have. If you were going to run a five link or xlink in the front it would work fine, but you are better off changing the chassis mount positions or move your axle back to run longer length arms.


It flexed exactly the same as it does now as they are the same shocks. It was just a edit:lower roll axis so it wanted to fall over more.

Whats the setup u have now u mentioned?
So u didnt mod ur lower arms when u had the A frame in?
How did it handle the road use also?

Cheers

Lower arms were 50mm longer with the A-frame and the diff was rotated for a double carden joint tailshaft so the A-frame was roughly 80mm longer than standard arms.

On road was actually quite good.

I've now gone back to a five link on the rear until I move the axle and will then go for a four link with new chassis mounts. Because the diff is rotated I had to shorten my lower control arms 25mm (still 25mm longer than standard) and make a heavy duty panhard with a bend in the middle to miss the diff pumpkin. Other than that it's your standard five link with heavy duty longer control arms.

It's still a little softer in the rear than the front but it's much better this way with the five link rear and drop arms in the front.

Its not flexed to the max but you get the idea of the better balance between the front and back.


With the A-frame in the rear and standard arms in the front it would have sat pretty flat with all of the movement in the rear end.

Whats the setup in the front? Do u run GU bushes in the radius arms...?

Justin

ive been running a bolt in a frame for 6 years with a 7" lift in gq ute all arm lengths are std exept centre mount on diff is 50 mm higher or pivot fowls on diff centre. i have had caster plates, 5 link front, drop boxes n now drop arms n a frame makes no difference to handling with different front suspension configerations. the a frame will give a small amount of rear steer but it is hard to notice. the patrol will handle better with more posative steering, with std five link rear the patrol will understeer into corners n oversteer out of corners. If driven hard with a frame you can steer with throttle. I have never had problems with weight shift running a frame if u do it will be your choice of spring rate

I've got a Wizard bolt in a-frame for sale if anyone wants one, PM me. Only reason I am selling is because I brought with some oter stuff and never had an intention of fitting it for my set up on my daily driver, mines a tourer!

Nelso wrote:Lower arms were 50mm longer with the A-frame and the diff was rotated for a double carden joint tailshaft so the A-frame was roughly 80mm longer than standard arms.

On road was actually quite good.

I've now gone back to a five link on the rear until I move the axle and will then go for a four link with new chassis mounts. Because the diff is rotated I had to shorten my lower control arms 25mm (still 25mm longer than standard) and make a heavy duty panhard with a bend in the middle to miss the diff pumpkin. Other than that it's your standard five link with heavy duty longer control arms.

It's still a little softer in the rear than the front but it's much better this way with the five link rear and drop arms in the front.

Its not flexed to the max but you get the idea of the better balance between the front and back.


With the A-frame in the rear and standard arms in the front it would have sat pretty flat with all of the movement in the rear end.

Hey dude, read the sign, NO PARKING...

Bloody GQ driver!!!!

justinshere wrote:Whats the setup in the front? Do u run GU bushes in the radius arms...?

Justin

The high flex ones that come in the Snake arms.

nastytroll wrote:ive been running a bolt in a frame for 6 years with a 7" lift in gq ute all arm lengths are std exept centre mount on diff is 50 mm higher or pivot fowls on diff centre. i have had caster plates, 5 link front, drop boxes n now drop arms n a frame makes no difference to handling with different front suspension configerations. the a frame will give a small amount of rear steer but it is hard to notice. the patrol will handle better with more posative steering, with std five link rear the patrol will understeer into corners n oversteer out of corners. If driven hard with a frame you can steer with throttle. I have never had problems with weight shift running a frame if u do it will be your choice of spring rate

How did it go with the five link in the front? Why did you take it out?

a frame worked great with 5 link but had massive body roll issues on bitumen as ute is daily driver n has 7" springs 2" body 37"mtr n no muffler on worked turboed td42 it attrackted attension i didnt need. Handled great offroad sat level through massive crab holes got no sway bars as front tail shaft traveled 80mm past front swaybar with 34" shochs front n 36"shocks rear